I thought these worked fine on all PC games, but they have some very strange compatibility issue specifically with T7 on PS4.
Edit: The yellow ps3/pc boards, that is.
Got one of these for my MBP. It will change your life, broseph…
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0872/6416/products/IMG_0014.jpg
They make similar stuff for MacBook too 
I haven’t used the blue revision, but things look correct in that picture. Without being able to dig in further, I’d contact the seller about a replacement.
One last thought though, did you try hitting the mode button while it was plugged into the PS2?
Funny thing is for the most part that adapter is nearly identical to the Nintendo Switch Dock, the real difference is Nintendo went off spec with the higher voltage requirements.
I use this a USB C to USB A adapter with my Nintendo Switch when I am not in Dock Mode.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012V56C8K/
You need to use a stand with it to get the most out of it.
I have the old 3DS stand that came with Kid Icarus .
Is the switch dock USB 3.1 or Thunderbolt? This adapter supports 40Gbps thunderbolt, so it most likely includes a different controller chipset than on conventional USB 3.1 gen 1 or 2 docks.
Hard to say as USB 3.1 C and Thunderbolt 3 decide to use the exact same connector.
Some devices cover both specs/protocols from the same port. Some devices than do 3 different specs from the same port USB 3.1 Gen 2, Thunderbolt 3 (PCI-E gen 3) and HDMI/Display port.
There are devices that can do thunderbolt type connections via USB C but the device in question has to support this.
Nintendo went off spec with the requirement for +15 volts DC via the USB C connector while doing Non USB stuff like Displayport/HDMI activities.
So the off the shelf Thunderbolt 3/USB C Combination USB Hub and Display adapter don’t work on the switch without some sort of modifications.
Apparently there a real difference with the cables, despite using the same connector.
https://thunderbolttechnology.net/blog/difference-between-usb-c-and-thunderbolt-3
Key here is pay attention to both your device and cable specs.
There are two different Crowd funder 3rd party docks that used the same pre-existing based Board for their project.
The one on Kickstarter is using their own already existing board with custom firmware with a rebranding to reach Nintendo Switch and Samsung Galaxy 8 Customers
The one on Indigogo went and worked with Engineers to reprogram firmware to make the device work and they have their own custom packaging, and the crowd funder is to pay for the tooling for the plastic mold for the device shell so they can afford to sell the device at a lower price. Both crowdfunders went to the same electrical engineering firm. A Similar development happened with the Xbox One and PS4 being so similar in specs (both developed by AMD).
The thing here is to pay attention to the specs of your devices and the cables your using.
A Standard Thunderbolt 3 cable is not the same as the standard USB C cable despite looking identical.
And yes there USB C with USB 3.0, USB 3.1 Gen 1 and USB 3.2 Gen 2, so 3 different standards for USB C alone.
I got this board a few years ago and I finally gotten around to wiring it up to my Mad Catz SE Stick. This is the underside of my board, and it has one blob on top of it.
While trying to figure out which plug goes where I may have gotten the board stuck on POV (the Dpad), but I would like to make my joystick the left stick. I plan on install a toggle switch later but I do not know how to get the green light to turn off (which tells me that it is on POV mode). I’m not sure which slot I’m supposed to use. Thanks.
Are you using this on PC or console?
If this is for a console, your best sticking to D-pad settings.
This is not the Stock Mad Catz SE PCB, that is for sure.
Looking at this PCB now, there no LS-DP-RS mode Switch.
You have a direct connection for a actual analog thumb stick with the LX, LY and V33 solder points.
Those do not directly translate to a standard Joystick. There a way to make this work, but it requires some circuitry to be made.
Edit: Did some more testing. If I use the USB plug it’s LS, if I use the PS2 plug it’s POV. Sucks that I can only use the POV part, yet SFV doesn’t recognize the dpad on this thing. I don’t expect Brook to support it, as it’s a very defunct board, but it’s fine.
The one labeled mode toggles between joy and pov hat. Just hook a button up to it like you would with any other input.
More like it’s acting like the common USB/PS2 pad common in the PS1/PS2 era.
Direct X sees the Directionals as LS in it’s software regardless, alot of pads from the late 90s early 2000s work like this.
If you want to use this for SFV, I suggest using a different PCB. Maybe a PS360+ or even a Zero Delay Board.
I would say get a MC Cthulhu, but the original Toodle boards are becoming scarce
Yeah, I do plan on getting the Brook PS4 board or something, I bought the PS3/4 to PS2 converter, though this ZD board was neglected.
Finally rewired it, works fine, now that I have access to my tools. Just have to dual mod it with Gummo’s board, but will ask there.