Your TV setup

Thanks for all your responses guys, they’re really helpful. I’m currently looking and posting on AVSforum and another HDtv forum to try and find out the best tv for me.

I don’t play Street Fighter much anymore so I don’t need the perfectly exact timing of lag, but I do play alot of games in general and would like the lag to be as low as possible.

Is the Sony XBR-55HX929 any good for gaming? I’ve read reviews and they say the picture is sick but I’m curious about the lag. God this is such a pain in the ass lol.

Sony are know to have bad lag, BUT I heard the X929 is actually pretty good.

I think its the same as the Sharp. I’m trying out some Street Fighter right now and there is lag but its nothing that’ll ruin the game for me.

The picture is just so damn fuzzy on this tv its pissing me off.

I settled for 2frame lag on my 55", I don’t think there’s lower than that for the sizes, 3d, picture quality etc we want for our TV’s :slight_smile:

Yeah the LG LX9500 does look pretty sick. No one seems to carry it though.

Hey Biggzy, it seems like you’re new to tvs…Just to let you know when you buy a new tv, its hasn’t be calibrated to optimum…Lots of TV’s looks like shit when you first turn them on…You have to search for the right settings to make them look amazing…I did search on AVSforum for you, try these settings & tell me if they look better…

AV Mode - Movie
OPC - OFF as usual
Backlight - +16 this is the default
Contrast - +35 up a few clicks from the default
Brightness - 0
Color -5
Tint -5
Sharpness +1
Advanced
CMS Hue R0,Y-20,G+16,C0,B0,M+27
CMS Saturation R+10,Y-9,G0,C-5,B-10,M0
CMS Value R0,Y+15,G0,C+6,B+10,M0
Color Gamut Range - Expanded
Color Temp - Low, Low, Low…

Motion Enhancement 120Hz - Note using 240Hz results in a dimmer picture and reduced contrast so I’d love to use it but it significantly degrades the picture in my opinion so no go for 240Hz in any of the modes btw.
Quad Pixel Plus - On
Active Contrast - Off
Gamma Adjustment 0
Film Mode Off
Digital Noise Reduction Off
Monochrome - Off as always
Range of OPC - N/A
[COLOR=#0000ff]Under Power Control Set Power Savings Off[/COLOR]

Hey Rcaido, thanks for looking that up for me.

I found those settings as well on AVSforums and tried them, they look ok just very dull. And the picture has a little haze to it.

So far it looks best in Dynamic mode. But I’m still not blown away

Now I’m noticing some black ghosting vertical lines LOL! Maybe I’m just being too picky.

That Sony HX929 has a Full array LED panel but is more expensive. I’m gonna go back to the store today and check it out.

Thanks again dude.

i have a sharp lcd 60 inch its 120hz. as of today i tried the xbox vga cable and it eliminates the lag to a bare minimum. i dont notice it. the picture is awesome if you kno how to set it up. their fairly cheaper too

I finally got back from Brandsmart and I exchanged the Sharp for the Samsung 8000.

Good god this tv amazing. I haven’t even fooled with the picture yet and its incredible. So happy I switched.

Thanks for all your help guys.

Nice, i have the Samsung 7000 series…Did you get 3D glasses with yours?

Yeah I got 2 pairs with it. I don’t plan to watch too much 3D with it, but I’m ecstatic about the quality of the picture.

I’m so glad I returned the Sharp.

Just an FYI on some of the points made in this thread. I work in ultra high end home theater and automation, i’ve been in the industry for over 10 years and am the sales manager for one of the larger firms in the city I currently live in.

Contrast ratios used by TV manufacturers are not real numbers, it’s not like horsepower in a car where there’s set industry standards that companies have to abide by, if you knew how some of those companies measure dynamic contrast ratios it would probably blow you away. Contrast ratio is the difference between black and white, the proper way to measure it is to have both black and white on the TV at the same time and measure the difference. To get dynamic contrast they will put the TV in a totally dark room, shut it off, and measure that as “black”, then they will turn the TV on a white image, put it on dynamic picture mode, crank the back light to max, crank the contrast to max and measure that as white. The contrast numbers you will get from that test are useless to you because they are not real world numbers. Just to give you an idea of how out to lunch those numbers are, most people cannot differentiate a true contrast ratio of 1000:1 or above.

In theory LED LCD tvs should have better contrast ratios, but in reality most don’t. The reasoning behind this is simple, when LCD’s first came out they had a light behind the LCD panel that is always on, it cannot be shut off. Think of it this way, if you take a flashlight, turn it on, and put a blue shirt over it, the light will be blue. If you do the same with a red shirt, the light will be red. Think of what happens when you try that with a black shirt, you can’t make black bright so you don’t really have a true black. When LEDs LCDs first came out and were supposed to be all the rage it was because they would put dozens and dozens of LED lights all behind the screen equally spaced all around the TV, if a certain part of the TV screen was supposed to show a dark scene (think Indiana Jones walking into a dark cave, but it’s bright outside the cave) they could dim just those LEDs behind the dark part of the picture to improve contrast ratio. This is called “Localized dimming LED backlighting”

Instead, what ended up happening is they figured out they could put LEDs around the EDGE of the screen and create TVs that were super super thin, although these were not able to be dimmed locally like the original LED LCD TVs so they kind of ruined the whole point of LED backlighting. My guess is TV manufacturers went this route because in stores all TVs are set up far to bright and in the dynamic picture mode, so having local dimming would make the TV look darker on the showroom floor, but human eyes are naturally attracted to the brighest set on the wall when you look at a bunch of TVs at once so it made sense from a sales perspective.

The newest and top of the line generation of LED LCD TVs claim to have edge lit LED lighting, but are able to mimmick localized dimming LEDs, but just like the whole contrast ratio fiasco, it’s more of a marketing gimmick then anything else.

This is why Plasma TV’s still have the best contrast ratio and picture quality, because with a plasma pixel when you are not feeding it any electricity it’s not glowing, therefor it is really as close to black as you can get. They will not give you that ultra bright image you get from an LCD but you will have a much more natural image with far more realistic colours. Although the burn in issue has become far less of an issue than it ever was before, it can still happen so use caution if you go this route, the TV will be far more likely to be burned in the brighter you have it. Dynamic picture mode is a serious no no if you don’t want to burn an image into your screen. That being said if a plasma TV is properly calibrated it should take over 100 hours to get permanent burn in.

And no, you don’t have to recharge a plasma TV. I’ve never in my life heard of this actually being done and to my knowledge it’s not even possible.

If you get used to a properly calibrated TV you’ll never ever ever be able to watch a TV in dynamic picture mode. I live in Calgary, Alberta, Canada and am very lucky to have met Michael Chen and have seen his work first hand, he is one of the pioneers of ISF calibration for TVs and people will actually fly him all over North America to calibrate their TVs to the best and most realistic image possible. He has calibrated most of the TVs in our showroom and the difference is night and day compared to the out of the box settings. He is very highly recommended on AVSforum and you’ll find that a lot of those “optimal settings” like the one posted above were obtained from someone who had their TV calibrated by Michael or another ISF calibrator.

I hope the above information will be of some help to you.

Regards,

Mark

Hey, I just got a job recently, so I’ve been really doing some research on CNET to find out about HDTV’s. After doing that, I’m down to two TVs… The Vizio VF551XVT and the Sony XBR-55HX929. The Vizio is what I really want to get, because it is much cheaper. The only thing that bothers me is the input lag issue. Since we play fighting games, we all obviously know about how too much input lag can ruin our gaming experience… I already have a Sony Bravia in our living room, and I can play games on it no problem at all, the lag isnt noticable at all. But as far as those two TV’s, I’ve tried to find some reviews about their input lag, and from the very little that I’ve seen, I haven’t seen any major complaints. So does anybody here have any good info on if the input lag is bad enuff on either of these two TV’s to throw off timing in fighting games?

19" BrookSonic Crt.