Depends what all you want playable under 1 stick.
For the Xbox One PCB either get a DPDT switch or a Imp v2 PCB. Chimp is design to dual mod with a Xbox 360 PCB.
You only need one SOCD cleaner, for that final stretch of wire before you get to your directional buttons
Thanks so much for the quick replay Darksakul!
Great news about the DPDT or Imp v2 and especially about the SOCD.
As far as custom PCB, I really am only concerned with PS3, Xbone and PC for the moment. Would it be feasible to just keep my sixaxis and hack in the xbone pad or am I setting myself up for disaster that way? By the way, I live in Louisiana and for me the chances of reaching a tournament (or even having the skill to play in one :P) are slim to none so the wired/wireless in tournaments debate really is not a problem for me.
One question that you might have missed is how does the SOCD work with hacked pads? I guess it works the same regardless of the pad or custom PCB and it intercepts the signals from the buttons BEFORE they get to the PCB. Is that correct and am I right in thinking that any weirdness I am getting on my sixaxis would be eliminated because of the way the SOCD works?
Thanks again for the quick reply and any additional help!
The Six Axis on its own isnāt a common ground PCB, so you have to use it with conjunction with a Project Leo or Toodles Axis board.
Otherwise it is perfect for PS3 use as its the only PCB that 100% compatible with every title on the PS3 including PS1 and PS2 disk games and PS2 PSN download games.
Cthulhu lends it self as the perfect board for this kind of dual mod as it isnāt as specific as the Chimp. PS360+ is good if you want to add PS3, Xbox 360 (and maybe PS2 and Dreamcast) without all the clutter.
MC Cthulhu still needs a Xbox 360 PCB for XBOX 360 play.
SOCD PCB was intended for all common ground PCBs including pad hacks, the SOCD prioritize one input for another so Up + Down is just Down, and Left + Right is neutralize, so you can say it intercepts, but it does this passively.
So much information here,
well im going to use this as a back up - Just emailed a member on this forum to see if they could do this task for me, ~if not, or i dont hear back from them (as i bet they can get very busy at times, lol) this is what i would need and please PM me if this is something you could do
i would need my xbox one controller PHād to be placed in a stick that i am currently building. id be just sending the controller and wires and would need just for the solder points to be connected securely and then shipped back to me. ( im still in the process of building the stick) if it could be wired up for for 8 buttons ( plus the home, view, etc) that would be superb, but i remember before people having trouble with the triggers so 6 buttons would be okay . if this is something you could tackle please PM me. oh and if anybodys local, im around the Orlando fl area Thanks!!
I am having trouble finding the information for some reason. How do I remove the antenna for wireless and lastly can I just solder the home button from the xbone pcb to qanba pcb.
Your picture got taken down I forgot to save it 
EDIT: I got the Resistor part 1/8 -watt 10K Carbon Film Resistors.
I just need the other parts.
Is this still the correct method for the triggers?
I am doing the logic for using and IMP v2.1 with a TE-S Xbox 360 and a Cerberus installed. I based this off of the IMP V2 PDF using Basic Setup. The XBONE controller will use the USB out form the PCB and then to the IMP. Is this the correct way to wire this?
Looks legit.
Awesome @gahrling thanks for double checking my logic!!
@WushuSeth @GrammatonKlerik gave us a great solution for the triggers on page 19 mid way down
And @Phreakazoid had another great solution on the wireless antenna on page 24
Alright so I tried it out last night. Started at around 10pm didnāt stop till 3am. Needless to say it ended with it not working. I believe I know the issue. Its because I didnāt plug the GOD DAMN PCBās back together for the XBONE lol, but I am afraid it might also be an issue with the usbās. I have a mini-usb plugged into the xbone pcb and then cut that wire and attached that to the imp. I then cut a usb and soldered that to the back of the Qanba and put that to the IMP. Since it didnāt work I thought I also needed to connect the VCC and Ground from the Xbone to the Qanba PCB but I only found 1 VCC on the Qanba and there was a usb already going to that so that could also be the issue. Could you guys look over my work and help me out. Also critiques would be helpful. I do believe one of my biggest problems was I left to much wire exposed as well.
So possible issue is USB or because I have the VCC and ground from the Xbone attached to a bad place on the QANBA.
Qanba PCB, notice the colored cables is for the USB. I soldered the VCC and ground to the other end of the solder for the VCC/GRD for the XBone
PCB A (A,Y,X etc)
Dpad
PCB A back side (RB, LB)
PCB B (b button)
Triggers
http://i.imgur.com/94wFIJ1.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yzjgpni.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ZkOnhcD.jpg
IMP
Appreciate the help I was up super late and I canāt believe I forgot to plug PCB A to PCB Bā¦
You havenāt followed the IMPv2 instructions at all. What the Hell were you looking at? Thereās so much wrong I donāt know where to begin.
Go back and start again. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR āBASIC SETUPā
Thaā¦thats what I did. I was told use the Xbone for the 360 and the Qanba as the PS3.
And yet you have not shorted solder jumpers A & C, and you have no USB OUT cable attached to the Imp. How are you connecting this thing to the console? If itās from the Qanba pcb then it doesnāt look like you have isolated the D+ & D- minus points.
On top of that your wiring is horrible - you have GND shielding splaying about everywhere at the end of the USB cables, and possible other shorts on the Xbone pcb.
As said, start again.
I am using the ethernet out that is on the IMP. As for the short soldering I missed that part. What does it mean to short solder it. Also yeah I can clean up my cables. This was the last part I did also the first time me doing any of this.
Dudeā¦
The first page of the instructions says that the RJ45 jack can only be used when connected to a Multi Console Cthulhu. On top of that you didnāt even connect the VCOL point making it even more useless. YOU CANNOT USE THE ETHERNET JACK ON A BASIC SETUP. YOU HAVE TO USE THE USB OUT POINTS.
āshort with solderā means exactly that - bridge the points with solder.
The instructions are there for a reason, if you donāt read them you only have yourself to blame. Iām done wasting my time on this.
I asked the question about the RJ45 and people said it should be fine. The Instructions are kind of contradictive.
āThe Imp V2 has locations for installing an RJ-45 jack and USB jack, but they are optional. The RJ-45 jack
should ONLY be used in MC Cthulhu setups, but it doesnāt have to be used. In MC Cthulhu setups, you can
use the RJ-45 jack, USB jack, or even both, with no worries about electrical problemsā
Actually I apologize. That sentence is saying you can use a RJ45 or a ubs for the Cuthulu. Ok so I have to use the usb cable. That kind of sucks because I bought the through jacks but I didnāt read so I am the one to blame for all of it you are right.
I appreciate the help and critiques
EDIT: Alright so confirmed thing I need to change is remove the RJ45 jack. Resolder the USBs, Solder another USB to the IMP and short the proper places.
This is not true. You can run a line from the VCOL spot to any VCC and it will work as normal.
Or he could have just used the usb out on the imp.
Edit - wrong quote
Alright so confirmed thing I need to change is remove the RJ45 jack. Resolder the USB
I am going to go the usb route. I am considered about the triggers though. When I was trying to tin the surface it seemed to start meting the black piece and I couldnāt tell but I think something else might have gotten hit.
hope I didnāt fuck that up.
Iām no expert, but that wiring job looks mad ugly 
