The actual color of the resistor itself has no bearing on it’s resistance. Mine are blue because that’s just the type of material NTE decided to use, it’s probably for their fireproof coating. The only thing color wise that determines the resistance are the colors and order of the stripes on the resistor itself. Some have 4 bands, some have 5. See this chart if you’re curious.
As long as you didn’t rip off the pads of the RC filter. You’ll notice in my picture I have my sensors removed.
even if you ripped the pad off, is that not the trace right below it that you could try to salvage? I cant really tell because of the white square.
I would like to say thank you however for your contributions to this thread and the time you put into not only finding a fix but detailing it as well.
This will help out alot of people who believe that they fucked their pads up by killing the triggers. Its a great tech talk contribution that will undoubtebly increase the success rate of this padhack for new people coming in.
-= Update =-.
I changed the points where you tie to for the voltage source and updated my pictures accordingly. I hooked up my multimeter to the 1.8v points and I didn’t like the fluctuations I was seeing when you would press the trigger button tied to it. The new 3.3v points to solder to, TP8 and TP9, are much more stable since that voltage is being supplied directly by power regulation IC’s on the top board; there is no IC that provides 1.8v so its being produced indirectly which explains its fluctuations. The MCU’s I/O pins are protected up to 5v so 3.3v is no problem
The only pad you absolutely can not rip off is the bottom-right pad for the cap in the RC filter as that pad leads to the MCU for both triggers. If you do rip that off, you’re pretty much SOL because the RT does a direct shot to the MCU from that pad so you’re only recourse is to tie directly to the MCU pin without creating a solder bridge to the other adjacent pins – good luck with that. The LT is slightly more forgiving as there are two via’s along the way to the MCU but vias are not easy to tie to as there is very little copper surface area as it has a big hole in the center like a donut.
Thanks for that, I really appreciate it. Hopefully people will come out of this whole thing with a working hack and a bit more knowledge in electronics than they started with.
Btw, I got one more trick up my sleeve that I’ve been working on as a cool add-on feature, stay tuned for that.
The component you circled is the resistor and you’re very lucky because its the bottom pad of the capacitor (to the right) that has the trace that leads to the MCU. Your board is still eligible to implement the trigger fix I described above.
The signal starts with the hall sensor (the three pin IC), goes through the RC filter pair then down to a pin on the MCU. The thing you call a “magnetic strip” is not magnetic at all, its merely just a protective bumper pad so that when you pull the trigger down fully it doesn’t cut into the PCB, you can easily remove these pads with no adverse affect to the circuit. The magnetic flux detection is in the hall sensor itself. When you pull the trigger, its magnet gets closer to the hall sensor IC which in turns causes the voltage of its output pin to drop. That drop in voltage propagates down to the MCU which does a comparison on the voltage to detect if the trigger is pulled or not: 0v - 1.3v = pulled, 1.35v - 3.3v = released.
Awesome. You’re still pulling more current from the sensor than it was designed for but I would probably leave it as-is for now and if you do get a failure or intermittent issues I would move to my fix which completely removes the sensor from the equation.
Took everything off and re-pad hacked (minus triggers). Back button and led issue went away and just played for a couple hours and didn’t have any left/right issue.
Only thing that happened was every once in a while it would disconnect and re-connect (led starts flashing, xbone says reconnect controller then it reconnects after 3 secs or so). I suspect this is due to the usb cable being a bit loose/jfl causing vibrations against it but a lil hotglue should take care of that 
http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p529/chaoticmonk/xb1brawlstickinsidetake2.jpg~original
Gonna leave this one as is with 6 buttons then start again with a new pad in my main stick
So the new feature I was hinting at is done. As a finishing touch I figured out how to get the LED(s) on the control panel that surround the Guide button to flash in sync with the guide button LED on the pad.
Before I go into detail about how I did it, is this already known and/or is there interest in doing it? Perhaps this already works with a dual/triple mod but for a dedicated mod like I’ve being doing I tossed the original PCB so I lost that functionality.
P.S.
Merry Christmas TT
never tried it but I just assumed you’d connect to the led signal? now I’m guessing its not that easy though lol
Hello, everyone! First, thanks to all of you who provided the information in this post that made this mod possible. This was the first time I’ve ever attempted anything like this and I know nothing about electronics. The information on here was really helpful in making my first attempt a success.
Following the instructions on here, I was able to solder the X-Box One PCB and wire it with my HitBox’s PS360+ and it works wonderfully on my X-Box One without any issues (including triggers).
The problem I’m having now is I don’t know how to wire the USB to the DPDT switch. I know that the D+ and D- from both the X-Box One PCB and PS360+ have to be wired to the DPDT switch, but I’m not sure how to rewire the USB (D+ and D-) from the PS360+ to the DPDT switch.
In the picture postimg.org/image/a6p5eqauf/ (it might need to be zoomed in), I’ve marked where I’ve soldered the X-Box One VCC, D+, D-, and GRND to the PS360+ and I’ve marked the outgoing USB from the PS360+. Is there an alternate wiring point for the outgoing PS360+ USB so I can rewire it to the DPDT switch, or do I have to desolder the outgoing PS360+ USB in order to rewire it? Also, I’m aware that there is a IMPv2 for this, but I really like the idea of a physical switch (besides which I’ve already purchased the switch).
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Here is a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) section of a Dual-mod tutorial
It is made for a PS3/ Xbox 360 Dual-Mod but it can be applied to your Xbox One PCB.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ez53ogXqPWM
There also the following threads
Besides a DPDT switch you can use a V2 Imp
The Idea is the same as a DPDT switch but you can make the process auto-detect
Thank you, Darksakul. I’ve seen that video and read those posts backwards and forwards. I guess my question is really basic. Since two connections need to be made to the PS360+, one where I’ve soldered the X-Box One USB and one for the PS360+'s USB. If I were to install the DPDT switch, where do I solder the USB for the PS360+, or do I desolder the USB port that is already soldered onto it?
Those tutorials, while great, don’t show me specifically where to solder for the PS360+. Since it’s inherently a multi-console PCB by itself, there wasn’t ever a need to make a tutorial on how to add other PCBs to it.
When in doubt always read the manual. Since I’ve never used a PS360 before that’s exactly what I did…well actually I just looked at the picture on the 1st page but you should read the entire thing. Here’s what I’ve gleamed:
[list]
[]The PS360+ doesn’t support the XB1 so it makes no sense to hook up the XB1 USB data lines to it
[]Even if it did support the XB1, those USB data line solder points are OUTPUTs, not INPUTS
[]As can be seen from the picture, those USB solder points are “Alternative” points, meaning you can use these in lieu of the USB jack
[]Knowing the three points above, re-watch the video that was linked two posts back. Whenever the 360 PCB is mentioned, substitute your XB1 PCB, whenever the PS3 PCB is mentioned, substitute your PS360+ PCB
USB data lines shouldn’t be going to the PS360+, just VCC and GND from Xb1 but instead of where you soldered them to they should be connected to the screw terminals on the very left (next to the usb jack). In fact, in kind of looks like you already have them connected there too based on the pic.
Option C seems easiest since that would give power to PS360 and also xb1.
Option A & B may require a separate connection from external usb to xb1 as I’m not sure how ps360 works (not sure if it passes VCC to xb1 via screw terminal)
Also note, if your connect data directly to xb1 board (and not via micro usb) you’ll need to add 33ohm resistors to each line.
Autodetect only works in conjunction with a Cthulhu.
Are you sure about that? I though it can be applied to other PCBs as well.
Multi Console Cthulhu and Cthulhu+ boards only.
Anything else connected to an IMPv2 pcb will be ‘saved selection’ only.
Having a hard time disabling the wifi on my pad. Do you have to cut really deep and is it just that trace that kind of loops around? Its hard to make out in that pic
best to cut deep and wide.
Alright ill give it another try. Its funny how I fucked up a b button by accident and now I cant even break this one on purpose.
EDIT: I got it done, thanks. I was ordered about coming through the other side at one stage lol. Hopefully I never have to look at this pcb ever again.
what is the purpose of cutting this trace? i know you said its to disable the wifi but what is this wifi you are speaking of? i’m not sure of all the xb1’s pad features.
disable the wireless in the game pad
