I’m going to have to try the trigger fix. I have two hacked pads, the first one where I fucked up RT before the new solder location was known, and a second perfect one.
It’d be great to be able to recover the first one and have two perfect sticks.
No disrespect taken, It took me years 7 years of college and 7 years on the job training as a hardware engineer to get a grasp on it, it’s fucking hard which is why I switched to software 2 years ago, lol. I try to explain why I choose the components I do rather than just say “use this and trust me.” I think it’s important that people try to get a basic understanding of how electronics work if they are going to tackle a mod like this. As FrankCastle said, the triggers make this a much harder mod, you’re not just extending signal traces to a button, you’re altering the circuit and when you do that you must understand the consequences.
Once I’m confidant of the mod and tested it thoroughly to make sure I’m not harming the board I’ll write up a summary complete with pictures like the awesome ones you’ve been providing.
Thanks Gramm, looking forward to it.
In the mean time, I went ahead and disconnected all the points on my pad in the homes of isolating the issue and re-doing it properly.
once everything was disconnected, I reconnected the pad to the console and the LED starting doing something weird…
Anyone had anything like this happen? lol
Just when I thought I had the RT disabled and no longer giving me issue, I now get the held down RT issue that someone (maybe ChaoticMonk) had a few pages back where it only causes an issue on the controller remap screen. Need a solution to disable triggers completely. 
I’ll go back and read the posts from the previous 4 pages to find out all that is known.
Swear to god I’ve read this entire topic like 3 times and I still don’t have everything down.
PS- Fuck this pad.
EDIT-
I’m having the same repeating trigger press issue that 3 people had on pages 13-17.
@Bush made a video on it. Doesn’t cause any issue or button press while in game or in menus, but while configuring buttons it’s constantly pressing down my RT in same fashion.
This is the surface mount resister/capacitor that I lifted that is causing my RT issues and what I think is the full line/trace for the RT. Please correct me if I’m wrong here. I’m sure either @GrammatonKlerik and/or @Gummo could shed some light on this and my questions and it’d be much appreciated.
Main questions now are:
-
Which direction is the signal going?
I know the triggers are magnetic and use the small black strip to recognize on/off. But does it start above the hall sensor and move down to the resister/capacitor combo and then below the (wireless?) layer or go up from the magnetic strip to the resister/capacitor combo to the hall sensor and then back down? -
Can I manually solder a resister to trigger points to prevent their press?
I think GrammatonKlerik was working on this earlier on this page.
Really don’t want to have to buy another pad to replace this one.
I have it so neat!
Example-
EDIT-
I fixed my issue with a 110ohm resister on the RT suggested via Gummo
I still hate this pad.
Can’t wait till @Markman announces a new wired fightpad (that is common ground of course) hehe
If you wire up a 100ohm resistor at that spot your RT being held down issue will stop.
You could also just bridge that gap with solder, but I’m sure GrammatonKlerik wouldn’t approve.
I just did a tri mod xb1/360/ps3 and everything worked first try.
http://distilleryimage2.ak.instagram.com/9c288c086bb511e3ad2a120ba9972426_8.jpg
Got my imp in the post and dual modded my 360/ps3 qanba with no issues. Big thanks to everyone who helped me out in this thread and to chaoticmonk for the guide on page 8, im delighted with it.
Can I ask what method you used for the triggers?
Also, how did you hook up everything (looks like buttons+back+sel to terminal, directions to cerberus and usb to imp?)
I soldered to the 2 contact points above the tape for the triggers, all XB1 buttons went to the terminal strip, directions went to the 360PCB along with the cerberus, and the cerberus buttons/directions went to the 360PCB.
USB went to 360PCB and passed through to the imp outgoing lines. Removed 0ohm resistors and ran Data lines to the 360IN of the cerberus. Cerberus outgoing USB to IMP D, E, V, A lines, XB1 USB to XD+, XD-, G, VCC lines
Sounds more complicated than it actually is
Which one of the two in particular?
Did you add resistors too?
Sorry for all the Qs, trying to nail down triggers and best method to connect all the pcbs together 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1570228/xbone%20backside.jpg
The spots are the 2 BOTTOM points of the cap/resistor above the black tape, circled in yellow
Wait…you connect to BOTH of them? so for RT I’d connect to the bottom of both cap+resistor?
Also, did you add a resistor?
Yes. When you solder to both, you don’t need the resistor.
ooohhh…all this time I was trying to figure out which one your supposed to solder to lol.
Cheers
You can solder to either. Sometimes it’s easier to use both, surface area wise.
The two bottom pads of the RC filter are already connected together on the board. Go look at my schematic a few pages posts back and you’ll see that the cap and the resistor share a common node. As Phreak mentioned, I would attempt to solder across both pads as you’ll get a better connection and it’s easier.
You don’t need the resistor to get it to work, but you should still use one (I recommend 330ohm) because without it you are drawing 16.5mA from the sensor every time it powers up (every 8ms.) That’s 1.5x the max listed output current assuming it’s 10mA, it may very well be 3-5mA.
P.S.
Just an update, the trigger fix I implemented is still going strong. I’m just going through the Dojo practice levels to make sure everything seems to be smooth. I anticipate a detailed post in the next few hours.
As promised here is the Trigger fix.
Here is the hookup for the Right trigger. TP8 is the nearest 3.3v test point.
http://i.imgur.com/whMpXl1.jpg
Here is the hookup for the Left trigger. TP9 is the nearest 3.3v test point.
http://i.imgur.com/dUiOuiK.jpg
The gist of the fix is to tie a 3.3v source to a 10K resistor. You then splice the other side of the resistor to two wires. One wire solders to the bottom pads of the RC filter and the other wire goes out to the signal side of your RT/LT buttons. The two IC’s on the PCB make a real nice non-conductive pad to hot-glue the 10K resistors to.
Although I removed the Sensor, the Bypass Cap, the RC filter and the cubes, the ONLY required things to remove for this fix is the RC filter, i.e. one tiny cap and one tiny resistor. The easiest and safest way to remove these is to lie your soldering iron’s tip across the top of the element so that it heats both sides simultaneously. Make sure you tin your tip with a bit of solder to get the best heat transfer. If you do it right, the little guys will move off the pads quite easily. If you have some solder wick I recommend cleaning the pads off with the wick to get the surface nice and clean. When that’s done, just put a small dab of solder on the two bottom pads of the RC filter as that is where you’ll tie to.
A word to the wise, even though I removed my cubes I recommend that you do NOT, there is no real reason to unless you do something stupid like I did which was cut the little white straps that go on either side of the sticks. Don’t cut those! Those tie directly to the potentiometer in the cube and when cut will easily move causing all sorts of weird directions to happen. If you’re the type that likes a challenge or likes the clean look with no cubes then use 5K resistors, not 10K. Although the potentiometers in the cubes are indeed 10K, that’s measured across the entire pot but we are replacing the pot with two discrete resistors so we should be using 5K to mimic exactly what the cubes are doing. If you don’t have any 5K’s lying around don’t worry about it, it doesn’t really seem to make that much of a difference but if you’re going to go out to buy some resistors you might as well get the 5K’s.
Great stuff Gramm! thank you very much for taking the time to share
Probably a silly question but, why are your resistors blue and mine brown? have I been using the wrong kind of resistor? is that why my analog cube goes left/right after a couple hours play? 
So that’s a viable fix if the hall sensor got ripped out?