Ah thatmakes sense. That must have to do with the chip the pad uses. When I modded sega genesis and snes pads to the xbox 360 fightpad. I remember I actually chopped the chips off of them.
Glad it works man. I absolutely love when instead of bitching about something not being able to work on a system, people take matters into their own hands and make the shit work.
The only thing I would have done differently would have been to wire the pads to a db15 or db25 so that you could also use the same pad on a ps4 padhack
Nice Frankenstein pad there.
I would of use a DB 15 connector, making the Fight pad and Xbox one PCB modular, so you can make additions without cutting wires up.
Prep another PCB the same way as the Xbone controller, and you can use the Fight pad for multiple systems.
Want to use a stick or another style controller? include a DB 15 connector and you can swap the pad for the stick or what have yous.
Is this diagram set up as if I am looking down it? Just want to make sure Im wiring to the correct pin. I burned my B, X and Y contact so this is my last hope. Thanks and happy turkey day.
The diagram is set up so that the â*â (asterisk) above pin number 1 corresponds to the big white dot thatâs above the notched corner of the connector. Rotate and flip as needed.
Would this work? Solder the directions and button to the points on the qanba pcb and use a seperate usb to power the XO pcb? I wanna pad hack my qanba but was dreading dual wiring everything.
Good Idea. Looks dont matter to me, its the feel and its flawless. Just waiting for some official pads and sticks later down the line. This will work fine for now.
Before you begin, test the controller out and make sure all the inputs work. Last thing youâd want to do is void it and later discover its a dud.
Start off by removing the boards from inside the pad as done in this vid (you can stop watching at 6:26).
Youâll be left with 2 PCBs shown below with the spots youâll be connecting too (optionally you could connect to the pins shown but can be difficult due to close proximity)
On Top Board Topside youâll notice a âstickerâ on the dpad.
Youâll want to use something thin and sharp to lift an edge then you should be able to just peel it off.
Gently and carefully scrape off the black stuff at the signal points till you see shiny metal (careful not to scrap too much or you could take off the contact point).
keep going on all the signal points till you have shiny metal visible and ready for tinning.
Tin (apply small amount of solder) the signal points and wires. Can be made easier with the use of flux
Solder the wires to the signal points (put tinned wire against tinned signal point, apply heat and they should join together)
Youâll want to apply a dab of hot glue to the wire next to each solder to stop it from moving around and potentially breaking off.
When connecting the triggers (RT & LT), youâll need to use a 100ohm resistor
The two analog cubes can be left on the board or taken off and replaced with resistors.
If leaving on the board simply cut down the grey analog pole that sticks out of the cube and while making sure its centered, apply hot glue to keep it in place.
If removing, youâll need to replace with 4 resistors (10k ohm recommended).
Thereâll be 2 sets of 3 points. Youâll need to connect a resistor from each of the outer points to the center point.
Once you have everything wired up your ready to add to your stick. The rest depends on what your setup is.
If your just doing an Xbone stick then its just a matter of connecting the wires to the button/stick and feeding a micro usb cable through.
If adding to an existing setup with other boards youâll either want to use a seperate usb cable for xbone and leave the existing usb for your current setup
or youâll need to add a switch to determine where the usb should go (could be an actual switch or an Imp board).
Just make sure every board has power (VCC) and ground connected to it or youâll run into issues with buttons pressing by themselves.