Hey guys,
I’ve been driving myself a little nuts with getting RT and LT working. I realize I’ll barely ever use them but you know…pride and whatever…
Anywhoo I followed the guide (First wave of third party Xbox One padhack options) for the dead bug and I’m not sure what my issue might be.
I’m am using a Power A board and that one isn’t covered specifically but I was assuming they’re pretty similar.
The triggers and sticks appear normal when looking at controller configuration. Then when I hook up the grounds, it goes nuts.
I followed it exactly so I don’t know what my next steps should be. I’ve also heard you can just ad a resistor between the pcb and button but I didn’t get that to work (though maybe I was doing it wrong)
I plan on making youtube videos once I solve all of this but I’d appreciate some guidance for now.
Are you using the Power A controller with “ring finger buttons”?
If so, you can side step analog/digital conversions by doing 2 steps.
1 program the ring finger buttons as the 2 triggers.
- Since the physical nautre of the button is digital, the key normally takes an analog input, and it works before you mess with it, the digital/analog circuitry is built in, and assuming nothing you do ruins it, Stan could do it today without further research.
BTW. If you have an Xbox 360 or a PS3 orPS4, or even want a Wii u or Switch fight stick, consider a Brook universal USB board. The board had internal d/a converters for both the triggers and thumbpads.
I can’t guarantee soldering it will not remove the memory of a programmable pad, but …
I heard a rumor that the Brook Universal USB board takes digital buttons and joystick presses and CAN make analog sticks work. And if he has one other of those systems it might be worth the OPs while.
What do you mean by this? This is very unclear.
Which “grounds” and to what are you connecting them to?
What do you mean “it goes nuts”? This could mean a gazillion different things.
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Unfortunately I don’t have one of those models. But I like the idea of it. I think I have one of those lying around so I’ll do some experiments.
Ultimately, I believe my issue is that PowerA shouldn’t be using 10k resistors. They ended up working fine with a PDP board.
I do love the idea of the Brooks boards but at $90 a pop I think it’s just asking too much. Besides I only use the Xbox one these days. I bought a lot of damaged powerA and PDP controllers for $35 and I have them all done except for the triggers on the PowerA’s. I am going to get a brooks 360 to Xbox one converter for my Ace Combat 6 flight stick though so that would be fun. I somehow acquired about 6 fight sticks over the past 6 months and I’m going to be giving some away as gifts to my friends. I’m pumped that Microsoft announced accessory compatibility for the next gen as well so thats another bonus. Thanks for the ideas.
Sorry I shouldn’t have been more specific. When I connected the ground pin on the chip to the main board, the analog sticks and triggers would register all over the place. At this point I’m just thinking 10k is the wrong resistor for PowerA’s because everything worked fine on the PDP board. It didn’t even occur to me when I was typing the post, but I just sort of had tunnel vision because I had heard nothing but 10k talk when using resistors and Xbox one boards, but those weren’t PowerA brands.
Unfortunately I won’t have my multi meter back (forgot when I was visiting my mom) for another week but I’ll be sure to report my results once I figure it out.
Just take some clear pictures of your wiring and internal setup, and I think that will help us help you troubleshoot a lot.
I’ll admit that I’m very rusty when it comes to XBO padhacks, I don’t think I’ve done any other than my own first and only one. They’re unfortunately not really the most focused on these days and, from my experience, most people who play on an XBO also mainly play on PS4, so they opt for something like the Brook UFB.
I actually provided a contact for a website with native English help with the brook retro.
I also noticed mist kf the errors involve a/b switching between a broik usb and briok retro, and multiple rj45 adapters concurrently.
I heard the bedt say toninstall it is to keep the electronics simple. Most if the priblems with my original Sinister Stick come frim gaving SBES Gebesis be tied tigethher instesd of being a removable and re-insertable like a game cartridge.
As to wherher thid op has a specific problem by experience, or is notilcing an FGC- wide trend, who knows. As general advice, email jasenscustoms.com 's admin’d tech email.
