www.JasensCustoms.com - Panzer Fight Sticks, ADCAP SuperGuns, EZ MODs, and more!

[airs]

The logo is standard. It is on every case. Similar to any other branded item. There is a very long backstory on why I did this, but its part of it permanently now.

The panel used was one of opportunity at the time no specific reason. I love the black sandtex cases. They are my favorite.

I see - is there only one logo? Is it in the bottom right hand corner as pictured on the PFS 2.0 page, or is it the one I’ve seen placed just above the buttons/lever panel?

[Jasen_Hicks]

It’s top dead center like the latest photos you’ve seen. When the new cases arrive I’ll be reshooting all PFS2 pictures to make it more obvious. Too much new stuff happening to go back and retake shots these days!

[airs]

It’s top dead center like the latest photos you’ve seen. When the new cases arrive I’ll be reshooting all PFS2 pictures to make it more obvious. Too much new stuff happening to go back and retake shots these days!

Understood. Thanks Jasen.

[gimmicks]

@airs I have an all white sandtex 2.0 and the sandtex center panel is not irritating at all. IMO it feels a lot better than a slick top

[Jasen_Hicks]

No problems!

[gimmicks]

@airs Here is a picture of my 2.0 with the logo placement above the buttons/stick

@“Jasen Hicks” I too have wondered if the logo can be removed by wet sanding or some other method. I understand that branding is important, especially on limited custom products but I really like having a minimalist look to my sticks. I feel the logo on the acrylic is perfect though, and maybe a small frog logo on the side opposite the auxiliary buttons or on the front side by the cable inputs would be great. Put a lot of hours on the stick though and I love it

[airs]

@airs I have an all white sandtex 2.0 and the sandtex center panel is not irritating at all. IMO it feels a lot better than a slick top. Here is a picture of my 2.0 with the logo placement above the buttons/stick

Cool, thanks for letting me know.

@Jasen Hicks I too have wondered if the logo can be removed by wet sanding or some other method. I understand that branding is important, especially on limited custom products but I really like having a minimalist look to my sticks. I feel the logo on the acrylic is perfect though, and maybe a small frog logo on the side opposite the auxiliary buttons or on the front side by the cable inputs would be great. Put a lot of hours on the stick though and I love it

I’m similar to gimmicks in that I dig the minimalist look. I understand the need for some branding but it does seem a bit intrusive to have it displayed front and center on the stick. I think putting it on one of the vertical sides would be much appreciated and a good compromise.

That said, my order has been placed.

[Jasen_Hicks]

@airs I have an all white sandtex 2.0 and the sandtex center panel is not irritating at all. IMO it feels a lot better than a slick top. Here is a picture of my 2.0 with the logo placement above the buttons/stick

Cool, thanks for letting me know.

@Jasen Hicks I too have wondered if the logo can be removed by wet sanding or some other method. I understand that branding is important, especially on limited custom products but I really like having a minimalist look to my sticks. I feel the logo on the acrylic is perfect though, and maybe a small frog logo on the side opposite the auxiliary buttons or on the front side by the cable inputs would be great. Put a lot of hours on the stick though and I love it

I’m similar to gimmicks in that I dig the minimalist look. I understand the need for some branding but it does seem a bit intrusive to have it displayed front and center on the stick. I think putting it on one of the vertical sides would be much appreciated and a good compromise.

That said, my order has been placed.

The machine that prints it, can’t do it on the vertical sides they are too small, hence where it is. I wanted to leave it in the corner but that didn’t work for a few reasons, mostly the artwork wraps and the overall look.

Being a symmetry focused person, it works the best where it is where I can actually print it.

And, thanks for your order!

[SoJoDragon]

Got the PWB template, thanks Jasen.

[Jasen_Hicks]

Here’s a few updates for all…

The Panzer 2.0 is officially getting a few design changes. Nothing significant per se, but enough to warrant a nice 3D model and some explanations.

1. The Panzer 2.0 is getting 3 additional 24mm holes to support L3/R3/TouchPad Click offered by the Brook Universal Fighting Board. Its obvious to me that this is the product of the future for custom sticks and adding the additional holes makes sense. Even more so since the TPC is used in SFV. PS360+ only users can either add “dummy” buttons or plugs (though I think the PS360+ use will slow down given things I think will happen shortly). I have future proofed it to make a system of systems board possible in the future, but with as many projects going on right now, its not ready and won’t be until later this winter. A simple 3 button harness can be made in a few minutes for those who purchase their own PFS2.0.

2. I am removing the logo from the case. That means the first set are going to be very limited edition. I feel its important to listen to the community and what they want/need from us as businesses, I will attempt to stay as nimble as I can while ensuing that continuing forward providing products makes sense vs. the time it takes vs. the money it requires. I hope it doesn’t ruffle too many feathers from those who have bought cases from me in the past that do have the logo, but here’s the background on why the GATOR (not frog ) logo was put on the PFS2.0 initially:

The unfortunate fact of the matter is that I had to brand my sticks because part resellers were using my customers entries in their various competitions as promotion fodder and never crediting me as the case maker or that it was even just a “Panzer Fight Stick”. It was always “Custom Case” or “metal case”. From their perspective it makes sense to use a customer submitted DIY case to show that they sell things one needs to complete it. It seems petty I’m sure, but I rely heavily on word of mouth advertising and people engaged with social media to help spread the word about my products and services. Using the logo on the case seemed like an obvious solution to prevent the blatant removal of “Panzer Fight Stick” when used this way.

[airs]

Really happy to hear this! Thanks for being adaptive Jasen.

[Finest_KO]

Wow, looks like some really interesting changes. I’ll have to get one to match my WideBody.

[Jasen_Hicks]

I support this decision

[Jasen_Hicks]

Here’s one of the VLX Panels I recently ran in a stick for ArcadeShock.com. Artwork is metallic ink mix designed by @hibachifinal

[EndRant]

@“Jasen Hicks” so I have a couple of questions regarding your awesome panzer stick. I will only be playing on ps3/4/pc so I was gonna get a hori fc4 and use that pcb for this stick. here we go.

1. I see three things you can plug cables into on the stick. do I need them if I will only be playing on said platforms?
2. if I don’t I can just plug them?
3. Will I be able to mount the fc4 on the where you would normally mount the akishop ps360+?
4. would I need extra soldering because of my fc4 pcb?
5. can you fit a hayabusa joystick in it?
6. now that you’re doing the three extra buttons on the back can’t I just use those three buttons that were there to begin with for select, options and share button and plug the rest? specially since my set up will be pretty simple
7. according to my set up what are the extra things I need to get besides the joystick, buttons and fc4 pcb?

thanks in advanced and I’m sorry for all the questions but I don’t know much about this.
really looking forward to your answers and hopefully it works out for me and I end up getting it for my birthday.

[Jasen_Hicks]

1. You can put a Neutrik Blank on the one unused. The DB25 comes with the setup.
2. See .1
3. You can mount it there. You will want to use some sort of sticky feet/standoffs to keep it off of the metal. It wont be a simple bolt in like the Brook UFB or PS360+
4. Yes. You will need to solder the wires from the 20P connector to the FC4. Well, I suppose its the same amount of soldering as a PADHACK but far more than the standard PFS2 install.
5. I haven’t tried but it will fit the mounting pattern. I think the body may intefere with the system of systems board though.
6. YEs. The new 3 buttons are for Turbo/L3/R3 support (or TP Click). No board for that yet so you can do whatever wiring you’d like or plug them with 24mm plugs.
7. Get the blanking plate, make sure you get the USB cables/etc. per the buy list in the product listing. Everything else should be included/self explanatory from the listing. You might want to get some 28ga wire (ethernet wires work well) and a long 20P IDC cable that you can use to hack up for a simple PadHack to system of systems connection.

Jasen

[EndRant]

@“Jasen Hicks” goddamn that was fast. thank you for all the info but can you do me a favor and test that the hayabusa fits in it no problem? it has anyone in this thread tried? hayabusa fitting in it no problem would seal the deal because I much prefer it to the sanwa one. again, thank you for such fast response.

[Jasen_Hicks]

I don’t care for the Hayabusa so I don’t have any laying around.

SNIP… forgot I had the one from my VLX I tossed in my junk bin. The Hayabusa doesn’t fit if the System of Systems board is used. Its too fat.

[EndRant]

@“Jasen Hicks” noooooo, that’s what I was afraid of. I’ll weight the pros and cons and make a decision. thanks for everything.

[gimmicks]

Very cool changes Jasen, new version looks great so far. I think viewing the original 2.0’s with the gator as limited production is a great way to look at it and I’m still very happy with my stick. Just a few questions I’ve been having though:

1. If I want to upgrade my original 2.0 to a brook universal is the board + the 20 pin completely plug in play with the system of sytems?
2. As a mainly PC player who wants the option to play PS4 at locals I understand the the TP Click is essentially just used to access a non necessary menu, but currently are the L3/R3 used for SFV in anyway? and if so will I be able to function without them at locals?