The wife wants a shirt too, but wanted a tank-top (insert laugh track about “tank top” and “panzer shirt” here). She said it wasn’t a problem since she could just cut the sleeves off.
Part of me wants to say “Don’t damage the shirt!” but the TT part of me said “Cool! Shirt mods!”
I still have mine…its super solid but some people just don’t like Korean specs I guess…I mean I can always install a jap mounted crown in the new panzer so its not a biggie really.
Hey @“Jasen Hicks” Have a question about the Khameleon… looks like it has a 20pin setup for the PS360+, but what if you have a crossbone connected to your PS360+? Looks super simple just plug one harness for the led’s to the board and daisy chain the rest correct? I know It may sound like a silly questions man just wanted to make sure Im understanding it correctly.
The Kaimana Khameleon plugs down on to your PS360+ making adding LEDs to a stick super easy! This simplifies Kaimana installation with a PS360+. It features a USB pass-through so that you can hit the HOME and K1 button simultaneously and shift to Kaimana USB mode and it prevents and accidental switch back for 10 seconds. This will allow you to program your Kaimana without opening the stick via the same USB connection. On board there are two surface mounted LEDs that indicate with USB system is activated (PS360+ or Kaimana). If you want external indication there are points to solder wires for external Dual Color LED indication on which system is selected, PS360+ or Kaimana. Finally, there is a switch that you can press for testing and troubleshooting on the KK without any buttons connected.
The KK has a 20P stackable header to allow pass-throughs for the buttons. As for the USB… I think it should work going from the KK to the Crossbone… but the crossbone may handle the USB switching aspects poorly. I’m not sure.
EDIT - When I speak of the Crossbone handling the USB switching aspects poorly, I am referring to the fact that the KK and the Crossbone both do USB switching. I am unsure how either of these will work together as I have not tested these together and what a double switching action will do to the USB lines. Its simply uncharted territory.
Can it still be plugged into a separate usb for lighting controls? I use RJ-45 on my PS360+ and want to keep that functionality. I’m really excited for the PFS 2.0, and it would be a great use of the multiple outputs on the front. I need another case to keep my PFS Wide Body company.
The USB pass through on the PS360+ is tied into the Jack, the 4P, and the RJ45. Realistically, you can use the RJ45 independently of the USB port and it will work fine. If you want the Kaimana Khameleon USB to be defaulted to Kaimana mode out of the box it would require a special flash of the firmware before it shipped. This is one thing that you would have to wait until I open up again to do, otherwise you’d have to press HOME and KICK 1 to get the USB port to swap over to the Kaimana Chip.
If the crossbone is in front, hold the switch input to swap to SYS.2 which would be your PS360+/LED board setup. Should be easy, but that’s a lot of shit connected to the USB lines, so YMMV on this.
I do wish I had used a different IC on the crossbone, it would make me more confident on this type of setup, but nothing I can do about that now.
The USB switching aspects I was referring to the aspects on the Kaimana Khameleon, not the Crossbone. There are a lot of USB things getting swapped around in a setup like this. That’s all I was referring to, nothing related to the design or build of the crossbone itself. Since I haven’t tested how this works with any sort of other switching system I can’t be sure how it will work out overall.
My biggest concern is the overall current draw of the setup. With a full set of LEDs and a PS360+ the max current draw observed was 430mA (in sinewave “sleep” mode) using a calibrated bench-top multimeter with logging capabilities. Remember 500mA is the USB standard (though some ports are a little more flexible than others).
I’d just like to stop by and chime in on how awesome the Supergun Case I received and finally put together is. This thing feels indestructible and could survive the apocalypse.
I bought the D.I.Y. Mk.48 months ago and finally put it together. His videos were awesome and helpful even for a Supergun novice like myself.
The best part was the customer service though. He found a deficiency in the powder coating in the top panel and ended up sending me a flawless panel alongside the blemished one. He also sent me the screws necessary to secure all the individual boards and components inside the case. He also was more than kind enough to answer any questions I had in regard to assembling the supergun. I ended up receiving quality customer service and and an awesome product. I would definitely recommend his products to anybody in the future when his shop re-opens.
I’m debating whether i want to make my own or ot, so don’t count me as fully committed yet. You said you had a few of the KE’s still lying around. How much for one + shipping to Korea?
(If it’s just for the case, I’d be a little more interested)
Jasen, have you bever considered to start producing metal cases for Sega Hot 2001 panels?? those would be great for building homemade Sega Boardmaster/Vega superguns.
I have to double check with Bryan on the retail cost. I would plan on the $45-50 range though. Unsure if he is going to do any specials on it for the event.
I haven’t. Since I do my own SuperGuns and have plans for other neat SuperGun variants I don’t want to muck up the product lines.
I think a nicely build metal enclosure similar to the ones found on japanese 2 player superguns will be neat and will sale like pancakes, the main advantage of those superguns is that they let you switch panels depending of the user needs, there are lots of panels made for japanese arcade cabinets with different kind of controls for different types of games that require rotary sticks, analog, trackballs, spinner/buttons (Forgotten Worlds) flightsticks (After Burner, Virtual on, Aqua Jack) mahjong panels and also driving wheels.