Not sure if I’m a big fan of the fixed USB cable on my HRAP3-SA (there isn’t even a compartment to store it), but as long as it’s still working fine I probably won’t mess with it.
Having said that, I still looked around for info on a detachable USB cable. Seems like most people install a Neutrik adapter like this: (or a similar RJ45 one)
Anyway, for people using the USB model above, do you use a locking Neutrik USB cable or just a generic USB type B to type A cable? I noticed the locking Neutrik cables are pretty expensive compared to a standard non-locking cable?
Basically I’m curious if using the Neutrik adapter is for the locking feature or just because it’s a clean way to mount a female USB type B port.
If it’s more for the convenience and cleanliness (not the locking feature), you could also use something like this, as long as you’re OK with some cutting and soldering:
In my case, using one of the two cables / adapters above I might be able to install it without cutting any new holes in my HRAP3 case, just use the existing hole for the fixed USB cable.
Anyway, just curious and wanted to share some ideas.
i can’t speak on everyone’s behalf, but i have a neutrik solely because it looks clean as hell. that and the fact that there’s no soldering involved (solderless solutions to things are quite popular, it seems) are probably the only advantages it has over your idea.
i would think locking USB cables are a bad idea. if you were to encounter some force that could pull the USB cable from the neutrik you probably want it to just disconnect the cable rather than pull your stick/your PCB/your PS4 to the floor.
Thanks for the reply Sleazoid! I’m curious to see what others say.
The Neutrik does look super clean and great to install on a flat surface, and they aren’t expensive either ($5 to $7). I’m just thinking about alternative options that would use less cutting, for example. This is kinda what got me thinking:
You can get panel mount USB connectors pretty much anywhere. I get mine on ebay for some projects.
In my experience, most people with Neutrik jacks don’t use the Neutrik cables. The Neutrik cables are more effective at preventing damage to the jack if the stick is dropped; it’s less likely to snap a connector. If you want a quick disconnect too, that’s always an option, just place it somewhere on the length of the cable such as how stock 360 USB cables come.
I didn’t even know the USB Neutrik could lock. I have one and it doesn’t have the locking mechanism, but I wonder if I just somehow lost it during the install. So I guess that answers your questions about which cable I use.
As far as the why goes, it looks good and is super easy to install. I don’t think it’s worth it to try and make some other adapter work just to save a couple of bucks.
Yeah, it’s not about the cost, it’s about an idea I had.
Here’s a pic of the same fightstick case as mine, but with the fixed USB cord replaced with a Neutrik adapter:
Looking at the hole where the fixed USB was, I’m just wondering if a female USB type B port would fit without any modifying of the surrounding plastic. The Neutrik adapter couldn’t be placed that low, and would require cutting of the case.
The fixed cable on mine is fine, so it’s just an idea. But I am curious if the Neutrik adapter is more for convenience / cleanliness over a locking USB cable, and it sounds like it is.
Any USB-B plug is bigger than any hole that a USB cable is designed to fit through. You’ll need to cut the surrounding plastic even if you don’t go with a Neutrik.
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[] They mount through a circular hole which allows you to add it any any chassis using a standard drill bit. There’s no need to carve any awkward rectangular holes in your box (be it wood, metal, or plastic), which may look horrible unless done by someone who knows what they are doing.
[] The rectangular faceplate also covers up the installation hole fully, so the hole needn’t be neat or look finished. This is especially useful if you are adding it to a chassis that’s already finished, you don’t have to worry about ruining your paint job or wood stain, standing, etc.
[] The locking feature is useful for accidental cable disconnects.
[] They are robust and high quality, and not very expensive. They are reusable in future projects and easily installed or removed with 2 screws.
[*] They simply look great and give a clean look, especially if you use the corresponding rubber gasket for it (available in many colours).
[/list]
I’ve used these things for a number of audio/video DIY projects of mine, and have never even considered using anything else since.
Honestly, I don’t have any plans to mod my HRAP yet; I just like the idea of a detachable USB cable, and if / when the fixed cable gets frayed or breaks, I’ve got a couple ideas on how to change it
But I was also curious why people go the Neutrik route, mainly if they use a locking USB cable with it or a regular one; seems like most people use the latter, but I do see the appeal of it for such a clean and simple installation (and they’re pretty cheap too).
Keep in mind that the Neutrik plate system, if I’m not mistaken, is actually mostly used for audio/visual systems.
That, and the mounting connector is actually designed to use their proprietary locking cable boot (whether it be the USB one or the RJ-45 one). While using standard non-boot USB or RJ-45 cables work just fine for our applications, they don’t hold anywhere as securely as anything with their locking boot system installed on already.
I’ve got nothing against the Neutrik system; it looks great and they’re pretty inexpensive. I was just curious if many people use them for the corresponding locking cables.
Speaking of which, aren’t the locking cables kinda expensive? The cheapest one I found was $15, and it was only 1 meter in length. I guess if you’re a pro and want a cable that locks it’s worth it, but for the casual player like me… maybe not. But for the price, having the option of a locking cable is pretty cool
Aside from it looking nice. It is always much much easier to make perfect circles (there are a few tools available) than to cut perfect small rectangles. Ive learned my lesson the hard way hahaha.
For going to tournaments, the locking cable would be worth the extra money. For home use or playing with friends not so much. But if you have the extra money to blow and want the locking cable for piece of mind or looks, then go for it.
I’ve got some alternate ideas, but it seems like for just a little more $ the Neutrik is better for ease of installation as well as the additional locking feature.
If / when the USB cable on my HRAP breaks I’ll probably post back here asking about options, lol
I used to use the Neutrik’s, mainly because of the ease of install. But I really didn’t like the look of them so I decided to not be lazy and solder my USB and RJ45 ports onto a PCB breadboard and properly cut out the holes needed.
Here’s an example of the RJ45 port I installed on my Qanba Q3. Slots were rough cut with a dremel, then cleaned up with a file:
Luckily the Q3’s come with a USB jack installed with one of the connectors shown in the first post, but if it didn’t I would totally do the same as my RJ45 port:
