since my Damn SE sticks keep messing up cause of the PCB.I decided i should buy a TE since everyone is using them.but i wanted to know whats the difference between them all
a madcatz SE uses cheaper parts… not genuine arcade parts. if you were to buy one of the tournament edition madcatz… u will be purchasing a sanwa joystick and sanwa push buttons… these are good parts and the tournament edition madcatz stick is definately worth the price. all of the tournament edition madcatz fight sticks come with sanwa parts. the only difference between the different tournament edition fight sticks is visual.
That’s actually untrue. I believe it was either the Round 2 or “S” edition stick, but one of those had the extra feature that the lock switch also locked the start+select buttons as well as the guide button as opposed to the round 1 TE which only locked the guide button from being hit.
Nope. TE-S can lock the start/select buttons with the Turbo panel. Not entirely sure if the R2 can.
Only sticks with the new PCB can lock Start/Select. Refer to the link in my previous post.
Round 2 cannot lock Start and Select. Only TE-S, Blazblue, Golden EVO 2k10, and Chun Li lock both. But, then again, these require that if you switch the artwork, it must be extended or full size, or normal size with bezel.
So, I guess that makes them functionally better? Other than that, the differences are marginal. All use Sanwa parts. Everything else is aesthetic.
I’d go with the Round 2, personally. It just looks better without the microsoft-required colors. That, and they were probably the most produced, so they tend to come in at the lowest price.
Since i had 3 SE’s mess up on me due to the pcb.Does the TE pcb have any issues people are aware of ?
Edit:thanks for the Link Dev
i used seimitsu buttons and used a Sanwa joystick.i mixed both of these since the sanwa buttons are VERY sensitive and the JLF since everyone uses it lol
You missed out a difference:
TES sticks have an extra screw added next to the turbo bay which holds the two parts of the shell together. It was put there because due to a design fault in the original TE sticks the back left of the shell never sat flush together - you could push the two parts together and watch them spring back up. This problem was fixed with the TES redesign, though only subtle.
You went through 3 Mad Catz SE sticks?
I believe the PCB in the SE stick is the same as the ones used in the TE R1 stick. I’m not sure if the PCB is more stable in the TE-S sticks or not.
If the PCB in my TE-S ever crapped out on me, I’d just replace it with a Cthulhu+360 pad or a Paewang PCB. In fact, I think I’ll buy the PS360 PCB on Akihabarashop.jp if it becomes available just in case.
The SE PCB problem (if I’m not terribly mistaken) is due to a loose washer than comes out of its groove and rubs against the PCB during use. Fix = remove it or glue it down.
i’ve had the original TE since SF4 came out. never had a problem with it.
The washer issue only effects the stock joystick’s microswitch PCB, not the main PCB. The OP apparently modded his SE with a Sanwa stick, so the washer can’t be the issue here. And didn’t Mad Catz supposedly fix the washer issue a while ago with a revised version of the SE stick?
Yeah so what is the washer issue of the SE? I took apart my SE (bought it for cheap from the Wallmart deal few days ago) and didn’t see how the Washer can possibly touch the PCB.
And I am also curious if the SE and TE (Rd1) PCB are exactly the same.
the problem i had with some of them was
1.the usb when plugged it wouldnt turn on
2.The buttons stop working for like 1 min and start working later
3.Turbo goes insane and starts doing things on its own
hehe oops…yea youre right. i didnt account for some things in my prior post.
I’m partial to the R1/R2/SDCC/FF.
the first TE i used was the MvC one, and its my favorite.