Thanks
Just wondering, but is the Xerox 252 any good? My Kinkos uses that, and I read that the 242 is supposed to be good.
You will not be disappointed. Got mine back and the quality and feel of the material is outstanding. I spent so much money at Kinko’s and it has never turned out half as good…EVER! I have never used anything I print at Kinko’s, I know other people have had success with copy places, I have not. MAME marquee is unbeatable imho
Any thoughts on adhesive to use on the face of printed art to be installed in the bottom plexi panel of a stick?
question for anybody that can help much appreciated:
I have photoshop and am a noob when using it.
How do I get the official TE template sized exactly the same as the actual artwork on the TE stick? I noticed the templated shows up as a really high resolution and needs to be scaled down.
Also how do I apply this artwork onto the template image together as one in photoshop?
Thanks in advance.
I don’t think the template needs to be scaled down. It’s formatted for Photoshop so that when it’s printed it will come out at the right size.
i’ll print within photoshop…
sux that letter sized paper (8.5 x 11) is just too small…grr:arazz:
i just went to kinkos and they had no clue what lamilabel is and neither do i
I posted this in the TE/SE template thread as well.
Hey guys. So hard to actually find some time to make this with sf4 out and all. But here it is! An acrylic topsheet to put on top of the graphics for the TE stick! Everything fits perfect and is cut perfect. And the thickness of the acrylic is exactly the same as the original art layer. So with the paper undearneath, gonna slightly thicker. Kinda hard to see because I still have the protective layers on it. Time to get my stuff printed!!! Have a good weekend!:chat:
Here’s a few pics.
And I still have acrylic to make 3 more hehehe. :woot:
good advice
sweeeet. any tips on how to best apply it?
im curious what the concensus is, is putting an acrylic sheet over the art better or not? im also pretty lost on what lamilabel is, from my understanding its where the artwork has adhesive on the back and can just be stuck to anything or am i wrong?
It’s the same machine, just faster. So yeah it should be good.
General rule for stuff like that is to start with one edge and use something flat to slide along as you lay it down. Usually a credit card or license works, but for something this big you might want to get something a little wider that matches the size. That should keep the air bubbles out.
I just got my Ryu stick artwork (see 1st post) back from MameMarquees today…DAMN. Could NOT look any better. Impossibly amazing quality. I’m super anal when it comes to printing (I have to do it often for school as I’m majoring in graphic design) and am blown away. It’s not just how perfect the quality of the stick artwork came out, it’s also the finish and feel. It screams top quality and feels great against the hands. I’ll take pics once I actually GET my TE (Capcom shipped it on the 13th, still not here) and apply it. Colors are also PERFECT.
Sad about one thing, though. I layed over the vermillion sanwa buttons I got from Japan yesterday and they’re the exact same size as the template circles. 
It appears MarkMan’s template had the button wholes at full size, and not a few mm in…so when I cut it there will be a visible border
which order option did you choose? How much was it? (and is it sticky acrylic or just regular acrylic?)
How long did it take for you to receive and how much was shipping to Canada? I’d sent a quote request to output123 and never got even a reply. Shame as they are in Ontario and I thought I’d save some $. If MameMarquees is good, though… I might just bite.
yeah i’m curious about what size you ordered too, i saw someone used them for their HRAP art and I’d like to give it a shot but i dunno what size to go to or if i’ll have to cut the curves and holes myself without cracking the thing.
That’s not good. How far do you think the button holes on the template should be taken in? Can you get a paint to match your artwork so you can hide any borders when your stick comes in? It might not match perfectly, but it might be better than the cold gray of the metal underneath.