Not quite sure I understand; does the TvC not have DP mode? Is this bad? I only need it to work with PC
Out of curiosity, what are the problems caused by the Madcatz SE PCB?
I’ll certainly check it out, thanks for the warnings.
I tend to play a pretty aggro rushdown style. I’ve played on people’s MvC 3 sticks and Tekken 6 sticks as well as my own TvC stick, and I’d much rather have a wired stick vis a vis a wireless stick.
I don’t think that’s X-Arcade’s fault though, Microsoft does tend to be fairly restrictive on what controllers work with their console.
Wireless fight sticks like the Tekken 6 stick (which is a horrible piece of crap BTW) and the TvC stick add in some serious control lag that makes it near impossible for me to play. I don’t know offhand if the back-to-back adapters produce more lag than the wireless sticks, but I’d love to have someone’s honest opinion on the issue.
BJ
Sup yo, im too poor to afford a new PS3 arcade stick. Can someone recommend the best PS2 to PS3 adaptor? many thanks!
A good PS2 stick with a adapter or 2 is fine. Its back to back adapters that I look down on.
If you decided to read some of the thread first before posting you notice this link was given out
The Converter Compatibility thread
Currently the inpin from etokki is the best PS2 to PS3 adapter, but there are some good alternatives if you want to avoid overseas shipping.
There PS2 to Xbox 360 adapter is awesome as well.
cheers broseph! much appreciated.
Your Welcome
I am new to srk, 30 years old and lots of regrets about not picking up fighting games earlier on in my life. Recently i bought MVC3 (xbox360) and i absolutely love it! Problem is, i am playing with a madcatz fightpad. I like the pad, but i wuld love to play with a good fightstick. I have the feeling that the padplaying limits my abilities when it comes down to inputspeed and options. I would love to buy a madcatz TE stick, but problem is that they are just not available in the Netherlands. In my search for a good replacement for my TE wish, i stumbled upon Srk. Man was i exited when i saw all the custom sticks and beautifull stickart. I would love to make my own fightstick. I did a lot of reading, but some technical parts still make me confused. The casing won’t be a problem. I like working with wood. Allready bought some nice timber;-)
The parts i am about to order are: sanwa jlf-tp-8yt-sk (joystick)/ sanwa jlf h wiring harness / sanwa obsf 30 pushbuttons and some 24’s for back/start/‘home.’ I think that will do. My biggest question is wich PCB is should go with. I have a spare xbox360 wired controller which i am about to tear apart. Only thing is; in the first post of this thread it says it has ‘no common ground.’ My madcatz fightpad has common ground. I am no experienced solder. What should i do? Should i go with the xbox360 wired pcb or go with the madcatz fightpad pcb? To be hounest, i do not know for sure what common ground, or no common ground means. I think it means that i have to do a lot of extra solding when i go with the ‘no common ground pcb.’ Am i right?
Sorry for the long post, my first by the way. Thanks in advance and greetings to everyone here at Srk.
Welcome to the world of fighters. I congratulate you on going out and building a stick. Nice to know you have done your research as well, a lot of people jump right in with no knowledge.
You are correct on the fact that having a non-common ground PCB means you have to do a lot more soldering(almost double the amount), but if you are a decent with a soldering iron and feel confident it should be no issue. The contacts for the buttons shouldn’t be too difficult to solder onto. I would still solder up to the fightpad though, as although I don’t know the xbox controller you are using, you would probably need to invert the triggers, while with the fightpad you do not. If you are not confident in soldering though, a few modders in the Trading outlet could wire up a controller with quick disconnects for you.
@ExtremeYoshiFan: Thanks a lot for your quick response. I have done some more research and i will be going for the fightpad pcb. My solding won’t be good enough for the xbox306 pcb;) The only bad thing now is waiting…waiting for paypal to come through and after that waiting for my parts to be delivered. I am so hyped…i can’t stand the wait. I wan’t to get to work as in Right Now!
Ah well, quess i will just browse all the different art templates. Still have some difficult choices to make:) Thanks again. Btw; i will be posting picks when i finish.
What is the difference between these two sticks??
Hori Real Arcade Pro V3-SA
http://76.my/Malaysia/ps3-hori-real-arcade-pro-v3-sa-fighting-stick-1004-11-sce@1.jpg
Hori Real Arcade Pro VX-SA
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/6735/rrhmeb4zp8qylmqaiuv77a.jpg
I can’t find the answer anywhere? Hope somebody can help me out!
The second image is not of a VX-SA, it’s a V3-SA that is a Amazon.jp exclusive.
Other than the button/ball top color scheme and artwork, there’s no difference between the 2 sticks.
Thanks! And are these sticks better or worse then TE sticks or is just a matter of preference? I’ve heard that the sticks above are lighter but respond a bit faster. I can’t find the link but there’s a YouTube movie where some Japanese guy is testing both sticks. And the V3-SA is just a bit faster in response-time
I haven’t heard about, but generally it is just a matter of preference. People who swear by Hori will probably come up with excuses, just as people who swear by madcatz will easily do the same. Hori was the long time go to brand for arcade sticks, so when Madcatz stepped in I am sure a lot of people bashed them at first. Any stick should do you fine as we wouldn’t recommend one or the other here if they weren’t both reliable. If you want the Hori, buy the Hori, if you want the Madcatz, buy the Madcatz. I have a TE-S and I love it, but I am sure I would love a Hori stick all the same. If you want custom art though, a TE would be the way to go. They are much easier to customize and plexiglass and templates for art are easier to come by. It is entirely your decision so you need to go with what you feel is right for you.
Thread update:
Added Laugh’s Omni Stick to the list
The Stick comes as Full Korean (Fanta Stick & crown buttons) or full Sanwa.
Can accept ether Korean or Japanese parts out of the same case with out modding the case.
Has a Dual Mode PCB for PS3/PC and Xbox 360.
The price range is $150-$200.
As for the TE vs Hrap argument?
It sort of like arguing Coke vs Pepsi, everyone have there preference, and like Extreme Yoshi fan said, fans from each side will defend there favorite brand loyally.
Over all the TE is easier to cosmetically mod due to the options open to people.
There is a slight price diffrence between the VX/VS/V3 series, the VLX and the TE series.
In general you get what you pay for. But overall both brands are equally as good.
I own both a TE-S and a Hrap-EX. Both been modded heavily. The TE still a 8 Button Arcade stick made for fighting games while the Hrap been modded to be a Twin Stick for Virtual-ON.
Why did I use the Hrap - EX? The Hrap’s body was heaver, larger with more depth and a little sturdier for my use for a twin stick mod. But in general they are the same if you just want a at home use stick for use with fighting games.
Only just seen this - definitely a promising guide.
Some things to add:
In the VSHG writeup there is no mention of the problems with the first production run of pcb’s, notably that of dropped inputs for buttons and joystick. This issue was fixed with the later production runs.
Typo with the Chung Li title 
I never finished the Sega section of the guide. Thanks for the feed back
Added the Pelican “Real Arcade”, MAS and Agetec.
I was going to get the MVC3 TE Fight Stick, but MadCatz is sold out on the 360 ones. >:(
V3-SA is PS3. VX-SA is 360.
But as said, they are both V3-SA.
How moddable is the stick that comes with the Tekken 6 Limited Edition? I was thinking of making a new “panel” (Apparently it’s just plastic and stuff?), getting new parts in it, and wiring it all up to a PS360 to give me a nice sleek controller.