I have to agree with the last post. I recently picked up my first stick during the NCR promo (the TTT2 TE-S+) and I’m glad I did. For it for $100 - $60 off the regular price. If they put the VS on sale before or during EVO, I’ll probably pick one of those up as well. I just wish I could’ve picked it up the weekend of Final Round… But I’ll get it sooner or later. 
I got the pad and hmmm, I didn’t feel anything too out of the ordinary. The only thing reportable is that if you put it on left analog, holding down then pressing left or right has a significant delay. Although isn’t the delay issue to do with it trying to simulate a analog?
Yes, set your stick to DP.
Dark Sakul Explains the science of LS lag on a arcade stick.
The issue with LS (left analog) on many arcade sticks is that LS is a emulated analog instead of actual analog input.
On a video game controller, by default everything is digital. Analog input is turned into a Digital notation of that analog signal.
Analog works on a gradient, think of it like a older turn knob Volume control on a radio or TV or a light dimmer.
For the sake of simplicity we’ll focus on only 1 axis, the X-axis or left and right. At the far left end (for example) we for a full five volts, and the far end on the right we got zero volts, with dead center being 2.5 volts.
You analog stick does any value in between that 5 to 2.5 to 0 volt values, but your console or PC does not understand this. So they assign numerical values for each amount of voltage.
The scale is Zero for the center, negative numbers to the Left and Positive numbers to the right. The actual max value isn’t necessary but for lets say for our purposes we give the max an arbitrary max of 5 in each direction.
IF we add the Y Axis and make a 2D grid, the information would look like this
.gif)
The actual point on the chat is where your X and Y (or Right/Left and UP/Down) values are.
This is how your controller Data is read on a Windows 7 PC via the Gamepad Properties window.
Note that cross hair is the approx location on the X/Y axis chart is where you Joystick is supposed to be. In this picture the Joystick is at 0,0
The far left would be lets say -5,0 far right is 5,0, Far Up would be 0,5, far down would be 0,-5. So a Far Upper right is 5,5 and far upper right is -5,5.
Theses are the digital values the computers expects out of the analog stick.
Pure digital input from the d-pad would be shown on the point of view Hat, with 8 directions.
More often a d-pad data input is own if one of each direction of Right, Left, Up or Down is in the On (button pressed) or OFF position (button not pressed)
So when you set your Arcade stick to LS (left analog more) you are trying to force your Stick’s PCB to represent the on off states of UP, Down left or Right as a X/Y grid axis value.
This takes a moment for your Stick’s PCB to figure this out and send the correct info to your PC or game console. Hence the Lag
Thanks for the input. I just tested the two controllers again: the ps3 and the xbox 360 versions. The 360 has this algorithm where when you quickly tap directions instead of giving you alternate 100%-0% input, it gives you 50% input. The ps3 version does not do that. It simply gives 100% input in the direction you point or nothing.
So as I said. If you are ever going to use the d-pad as an analog stick, better go with the ps3 version.
I only have this issue in 2 games: Cave Story and Oniken. They are simple indie titles, and have the controller set for use with the left analog stick. Guess they though (right) that the d-pad on the 360 controller (and actually many others) is just too awful and so better use the analog. But with this “laggy” input from the 360 version the game becomes unplayable.
The problem is that the game is not reading that 50%. it reads it as go, or not go. Just like a fighting game does. So you get really faulty input.
Mind me, there is absolutely no lag. What there is is an imitation of analog input, which could cause many different things, one of them perceived lag in the inputs.
Just to close it I repeat. This algorithm was not implemented equally in both controllers, the ps3 version (at least mine) does not try to imitate analog. It just gives 100% or 0%, without any sort of lag or compensation. You can play platformers and fighting games just fine with LS. The 360 version is a problem.
Most games will let you play as d-pad, so thats not an issue most of the time. It can only become an issue when the programmers don’t let you choose.
I think the feature you are referring to is per game and not set by the console. How well a game registers a Analog stick movement depends on the game’s coding. On some games you want a wide gradient on how sensitive the analog is , like in Driving or sport titles where you want a 25%, 50% 75% and a 100% to be detected, or even more positions. On a FPS or a action adventure you just need a soft and hard indicators for each direction. Some Games detect 8 directions while others Like Smash Bros Brawl detect 64 directions, some driving or simulator games detect a CLOSE-TO 360 degree area of movement.
no no. Maybe I wasn’t clear. I tested both controllers on PC, on the controller input screen that the OS has. They behave very differently from one another, exactly as I described.
And I won’t even consider that this algorithm that “emulates” analog is ever a good thing. If you want analog controls on a pc, xbox360 or PS3 you have plenty of better options than a MCZ SFxT. But as I said, If a programmer forces you to use the analog stick with the function of a d-pad, than the better algorithm to be used is the 100% or 0% approach.
It’s not as if its that a big deal, since I only encountered this problem with two games. They are both great games though. And Cave Story is free.
I know on handhelds (vita and 3DS) many programmers have also been doing that. They use the analogs to control characters in 2d platformers and such games even if they only recognize 4 or eight directions without any proportional input. But that’s not very relevant to the whole controller discussion.
Can anyone post or PM me an answer to the following:
I used to have an x-arcade stick back in 2003, etc. What’s a good stick that will work on a PS3, PS2, and PC (GGPO). I want to dust off my CVS2 (PS2).
Read the guide on page 1 please.
The guide on Page 1 has helped me out a lot in my stick buying research. I don’t know if this is the proper place to post this, but I’m torn between two potential Xbox 360 sticks to buy. Specifically, the Hori Real Arcade Pro VX SA Kai, and the Qanba Q4RAF (Ice Blue). I prefer the button placement and start button remapping of the Kai, but I prefer the cross-compatibility and appearance of the Q4RAF. I’m leaning more toward the Kai, especially considering my budget and the fact that performance always trumps appearance (besides, I can save up for button and art mods), but I’m open to opinions.
Well they both perform about the same. If you need a stick that’s dual modded, go with the Qanba. You’re paying about $50-60 more for that convenience. If you don’t need it dual modded, I say go Kai but it’s hard to go wrong with a Qanba haha. They both use the same parts. The biggest problem with the Qanba is the start button placement, but it’s not a huge problem unless you mash in Marvel like I do lol.
I don’t really need dual-modding, since there’s no scene in my area, sadly. And I do really like the Kai’s ability to disable the Start button. The layout also seems nicer for someone with big hands like me. So I think the best thing I can do with my budget is to pick up the Kai and use the 50 or 60 bucks I save to buy some buttons, a balltop, and some custom art for modding. Thanks for your input!
I disagree, as the 50 or 60 bucks can go for your own dual mod, there no cost benefit. The Benefit of the Qanba is that is supports 2 systems out of the box, the downside is other than the Qanba is a grey market device there are some reliability issues with some Qanba sticks. Also with the Right Dual-Mod a Modded stick has auto detect, the Qanba does not auto detect.
My normal recommendation is the Mad Catz TE S but for you go with the Hrap VX Kai and use a chimp ($35) to dual-mod it.
I know the older Qanba have had some reliability issues. Never had a problem with a newer Qanba but I’ve only had limited exposure to those. I think there is a cost benefit to pre-dualmodded sticks though since I’m sure a majority of stick owners don’t feel comfortable opening/modding their own sticks. I know the first time I used a soldering iron I almost burned a hole through a PCB haha. Thus they’d have to get it dual modded by a modder and that usually costs $80+ from the quotes I’ve seen in my area. Plus you don’t have to risk messing up your stick if it’s something you haven’t done before. If the purchaser were comfortable modding sticks, then yeah there’s no cost benefit.
Alright, that’s good to know. Thanks for your advice!
Just recently purchase the Tekken Tag 2 sticks through the UFGT sale going down, haven’t gotten it yet as it’s on the way.
How is that stick? I’m guessing it’s on par with the TE S+ model since that’s what it’s called (Tekken Tag Tournament 2 Fightstick TE S+).
However, my main question is; just purchase this over the Mad Catz website and wondering how long does it normally take for these sticks to ship out? Purchase it Saturday, didn’t expect to hear anything until today but still nothing. Just wondering how Mad Catz services work (or am I posting up in the wrong area?)
@PozerWolf - I picked up the TTT2 stick during the NCR weekend sale… Nothing but love for that stick!!!
For ECT, I grabbed an SCV stick, but funny enough, I still haven’t gotten a shipping notification on it. Not sure if MCZ is backed up or not, but the holiday is sure to have added to the processing time.
Expect a day or 2 additional delay due to the Holiday
Yeah, I expected as much. Hope it doesn’t take too long, getting antsy over here.
Thanks for the feedback @PlayDoh003
NEXT DAY EDIT: Seems like they shipped out my stick sooner than anticipated. Looks like ETA is this Friday, can’t wait to brake it in!
Hi I’m starting to get back into fighting games. I’m going to pick up injustice before work today and want to spend no more than $120 on a stick. I’ve been trying to research sticks the best I can and I need some suggestions. If I find the Injustice battle edition should I just buy that?
My choices have been:
Street fighter x tekken arcade fight stick pro for $100
Soul caliber V arcade fightstick soul edition $100
And possibly the injustice battle edition fight stick if i can find it
Or should I look into a different stick? Since I’m new and all I rather just buy a good enough stick with this amount of cash rather than buying a pad and upgrading or buying a cheaper beginner stick. Also I’m not sure about modding quite yet, I’ve looked into it but I just want to play, learn, and have fun.
The SFxT pro stick and the SCV Soul Edition are both great choices. Injustice stick isn’t recommended for beginners. Pretty much any stick with Sanwa (or Seimetsu/Hayabusa-Kuro) parts is a great choice.