Ordered yesterday morning, still hasnt shipped 
The ole bait and switch from Madcatz
Bait and switch implies that they baited to their storefront with an advertised item at a certain price, but then when you arrived, that item / price was not available. That they instead only offered a more expensive item, or one of lesser quality. Mad Catz has done no such thing. They may be falsely advertising their stock status, but that doesn’t mean you won’t get the item you paid for. You were not coerced into buying a TE2+ because the TES+ was never there in the first place.
I’m sorry their shipping time is taking longer than expected. I would be concerned if a week went by and there were no notifications, but a day or two, for a company who’s morale is extremely low? Nah, they are probably not rushing to pack some boxes right now.
This is correct. It will work.
Correct.
I can give you a short list of controllers that ever were region locked.
- Japanese PC Engine Controllers (mini din 8) / US Turbo Grafix 16 controllers (regular din 8) , electrically compatible with each other but uses 2 different sizes of connectors.
Solution change the connector or get a adapter.
-
Pal region SNES consoles, can not use Japanese/US Controllers. Requires minor mod to remove or/and bypass diodes on controller connector board inside of the console.
How to for the mod - http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/using-import-joypads-on-the-pal-snes/ -
Some Famicom controllers use a DE-15 connector instead of the NES plug. Some Famicom consoles have hardwired controllers. But everything is electrically compatible with each other.
Minor rewiring required for hardwired controllers, and its not hard to make a DE-15 to NES adapter.
And thats it, that everything in the last of some 44+ years of video game consoles.
More and more now consoles are using less proprietary parts and connectors and using more universal/industry standard parts and connectors.
dude, if you ordered yesterday right around 11am then more than likely you won’t get a shipping confirm until today (if the stick was listed as in stock). judging by everyone’s shipping confirmation coming in at about the same time yesterday, plus the fact that my fedex receipt says that it was picked up, you’ll more than likely get a shipping confirm around the same time tonite. i doubt they have fedex coming and picking up bulk orders more than once a day. if you ordered a te2+ yesterday then i don’t even know what you’re complaining about since they’re not supposed to ship until 3/3
At the earliest, if someone ordered at 11am yesterday they maybe get their tracking number by evening time today.
And getting a tracking number does not mean it’s even shipped yet, all that means someone took your order, box it up and punch up the shipping so its ready to go and get picked up by USPS, Fedex, UPS, DHL, Lasership, ect… Most places only Ship-out packages once a day, and if your tracking number was not generated until after the pickup happens, its not leaving the warehouse til the following day. And that isn’t just Madcatz, that is everyone, everywhere. Only Amazon does shipping quicker, and that assuming their local warehouse in your area already has the item in stock and ready to go and assuming you are an Amazon prime user.
i was p surprised that my ticket was generated yesterday evening and when i checked the tracking around midnite (est) that it had indeed already been picked up and was enroute with an estimated arrival date. if anything they’re exceeding expectations given the crazy demand. i’ve ordered “in stock” products from boutique manufacturers that didn’t ship for months due to their stock management software not working correctly.
Mine shipped from Bloomington, CA and is arriving Tuesday as well. Oh well… Still better than the 3/3 ship date I was anticipating.
Hey guys I am not sure if I’m in the right thread. I am waiting for the TE2+ to get shipped from new egg. I have also ordered new colored buttons, octogate, and a bat top. One thing I want to know is…Should I add a spring to the joystick and can I really add a spring that you buy from Home Depot??
The 2 LB springs from Focus Attack are a very inexpensive add on and might be worth trying out, but absolutely not necessary. If you are OK with the tension of a stock JLF, then don’t worry about it.
I’m not sure about the Home Depot thing. I would have to see what spring is being recommended before I could pass judgement.
sorry if this has been asked before, but does anyone know of a retailer in the UK with the TE2+ in stock at RRP?
The springs look like this.http://www.giantbomb.com/street-fighter-iv/3030-20456/forums/cheap-mod-home-depot-springs-for-added-tension-to--384920/
Thanks for the link!
Will the spring fit, sure looks like it, but I personally wouldn’t waste $4 + tax on a bulk set of springs, out of which I could only use one. If you really want to try a new spring, just add one to your next order from Focus Attack or PAS. From my experience with the 2 LB spring in a JLF, I would not want any more tension than that, but YMMV if you are looking for a certain feel.
Just a heads up: when replacing your buttons on the TE2+, the buttons it comes with each have a small plastic gasket that fits around the bottom of the button’s rim. You’ll need to take them off the stock buttons and slip them on your replacements in order to make the new buttons fit snug against the face of the fight stick. Otherwise they’ll be loose and spin around.
What is difference between te2, te2+ and tes+?
Even with the gaskets, they are loose and spin around. Terrible design. Screw-in buttons to the rescue!
The TE2+ uses the same case as a TE2 but includes the touch pad and L3 R3 buttons on the control panel. The vanilla TE2 simply lacks those features. The TES+ does have the touch pad and extra buttons, but is the older design, without the hinged top panel and removable artwork / plexi of the TE2, it’s also a different shape / size compared to the TE2.
Mine is actually ok with the gaskets on the buttons. I had them all in without the gaskets at first and they were extremely loose. I have the snap-in buttons and they are plenty snug.
@dwreck83 if you are going to use a battop, I would definitely recommend ordering a 1.5 or 2 lb spring. The battop I had in mind was too top heavy and it made the stick feel like it wouldn’t quite sit neutral. Mine was aluminum, though, and a little bit heavier than the plastic baltop. Here’s another link to paradise arcade, where there is a petty good assortment:
Or just get a Tek-Innovations plexi and toss the stock one along with the clear spacers.
Saw the Virtual Stick High Grade thread, but I figured instead of bringing a dead thread back, I would just post here.
I haven’t really been keeping up with PCBs as of late, been too busy.
I’m thinking about acquiring a VSHG, and I’m just curious what the best route would be for ps4 mod? Any solderless mods out there yet? If not, it doesn’t matter.
I could care less for 360 compatibility, but I’m sure the newer PCBs include that anyways.
Thanks in advance!
The brook ps4 board witch is 40$, supports ps3,ps4 and pc and requires soldering for all connections, or the brook universal board witch is 90$ and requires no or minimal soldering, and supports ps3/ps4/360/xbone/pc