Hi guys…I think is time to buy an arcade stick. I am a PC USER. I play on keyboard but is not so comfortable in my opinion. I play Street fighter V, KOF, MAIN GGxrd, and VF5. Which arcade stick I should buy?
-Madcatz te2 if compatible with pc
The qanba q4 will probably be the best value, and it has an xinput mode that will work on more pc games (generally a non issue for fighters, but useful for some games that want an xbox controller). You have more options with Japanese mounts, including a couple Korean sticks designed to fit them.
Etokki i think has better material. I m not a modder, i buy Korean version or sanwa version? I play SFV,GGXRD
What do you guys think about the newly released Hori RAP V Hayabusa (v2)? (Especially compared to Madcatz TE2)
Would get any of the PS4 Hori’s over a TE2(owner of 2 TE2’s at one point)
It work in windows10? Is a new release?
Just got an HORI RAP 4, why would you do that?
Why would I buy 2 TE2’s? I thought it was going to be better or on par quality-wise as a TE1, but it wasn’t.
Does anyone the EXACT joystick and buttons used on the Madcatz TE2’s? I know they are sanwa but they feel different (better) than the ones on my Q4.
Same parts, a jlf and obsf-30’s. Any difference in feel is due to wear and different production lots of springs.
Must have been the way they were manufactured. My Q4 has always been the same, there is a huge difference especially in the buttons.
Hi guys I am new in the forum but I am an experience player of Virtua Fighter series. Are 6 years I play VF on pad, now I want to buy a professional arcade stick, the best stick for my liked series. I know Korean stick are better for tekken and generally 3d fighters, is the same for VF?
I’ve had the same experience, the Dark Hai’s that come with Mad Catz feels cheaper and more brittle plastic, tabs break with a feather light touch too. Friends that got TE2’s that have been playing with stick for many years at first thought and even after seeing the Sanwa brand on the bottom of the buttons still think they are knockoffs lol
Hmmm. Hard to eplain the difference. The ones I got with the te2 almost feel like a whole new button. It feels like there is a switch like u would feel on a mechanical keyboard. The ones on my Q4 have no resistance at all and slight touches will press them. They feel cheap
It sorta depends how tight that hole in in the panel for the push button.
The hole being too tight or too loose will effect how the button performs.
giggity
Xrd on PC has a lot of problems with ps3/ps4 pcbs with memory leaks being reported from extended play (in network mode extended play counts as anything more than one fight) which cause severe drop in framerate. You can fix it by unplugging and replugging the controller (which is what I do since I use a Ps3 Madcatz Fightstick Pro), so it’s not really a huge issue.
I have no idea what two ps3/ps4 controllers do if they’re both plugged in and you’re running local sets.
Just something to think about. My friend uses his qanba to play xrd and sf5, no complaints from him about pcb issues. However there have been reports of PCB issues, but a lot of people use qanbas and they seem happy enough.
You can’t go wrong with a hrap 4 though, HORI is great.
How up to date is the OP?
I apologize if this isn’t where this should go. I didn’t see a thread specifically for giving a heads up to everyone for deals. Razer is having a CES Appreciation Sale today online for 24 hours. If you sign up on their site you can get a code to get any one item on the store for 50% off. If anyone’s in the market for an Atrox Xbox One stick, this is a pretty good price at $100. Here’s a link to get everyone started that has interest.
I’m contemplating the newer TE2+ or the TE S+ that are coming out…
I have a dual modded TE S Chun Li but from what I’ve gathered the PS3 peripherals won’t work with PS4…
I made some major changes.
The Quality category is no more.
Instead the category is split into Case and Parts.
The CASE category gets a letter grade. Sometimes a description. The Letter grade is base on build quality and partially based on my confidence the stick will not break if I would drop it.
All the Mad Catz Sticks lose a letter grade on the issues with the welds on the joystick mount (encase you get salty and slam your stick into a cement floor). The VS Stick gets an A- as the rest of the stick is so tank like.
Parts just refer to the brand and type of parts used. Generally when you see Sanwa or Seimitsu parts, you are getting 100% authentic Arcade parts.
Hori made parts are split into 2 categories: What they try to pass off as authentic parts and complete knock offs.
I also did a major edit and Downgrade on my Razer Atrox Entry.
They got great reviews originally as when new did great. I originally gave it a great review.
Now that cases are literally falling apart, some are breaking apart with out being handled. There Case Score went from A to F (Fail).
How the new letter grade score works.
C is avrage, a passing Grade. With a C- being Barely passing.
The C grade is the BASE LINE where all Arcade Sticks need to meet.
D would be horrible but not a complete FAIL. Avoid anything with a D Score.
F is a complete Fail, the case does not work and it will break on you.
B is above average
A is Excellent with a A+ being Tank Like.