What Joystick/Button combination do you recommend?

[Mizkreant]

I like octagon gates better because seeing how command lists in some fighting games list how to perform certain techniques, they sound like it would result in more precise movements. I haven’t played many arcade games. Luckily though, I did play Soul Calibur III with a Happ Stick. What I liked about the Happ sticks is that it worked great for Soul Calibur III. However, they didn’t work so great with the 80’s arcade games(such as Frogger, for example). For spring tension, I prefer the moderate approach to spring tension. Not to light, not too hard.

Taking all this into account I think you would like either the Seimitsu LS-55 or 58. The 58 has slightly shorter throw/engage. Spring tension on both is about the same, medium.

[Alpha_Challenger]

I just asked Doug (Old Man Foehammer) about snap-ins on his new DIY cases, as they didn’t work so hot on the old DIY. His answer was yes, you can use snap-ins now.

That being said, the PS-14-GN is a screw-in type (the ‘N’ stands for nut), so it will definitely work. I think you were referring to the snap-in PS-14-G, which FA starts carrying in July.

I decided that I’m going to build my own wooden shell. I forgot to mention this, but my father has some good woodworking skills, and he said he’d be able to help me with that part of the project.

Taking all this into account I think you would like either the Seimitsu LS-55 or 58. The 58 has slightly shorter throw/engage. Spring tension on both is about the same, medium.

I decided that I’m going to go for a Seimitsu LS-58, along with the PS-14-GN push buttons, since I felt that the Sanwa push buttons weren’t responsive enough in my Wii Fighting Stick and my Hori V3 SA. So I’m going all Seimitsu for my Arcade Stick. I prefer tension in my Arcade Sticks(since I liked the tension in my old Asciiware SNES Fighting Stick). Thanks again everyone for your help.

[Mizkreant]

I decided that I’m going to go for a Seimitsu LS-58, along with the PS-14-GN push buttons, since I felt that the Sanwa push buttons weren’t responsive enough in my Wii Fighting Stick and my Hori V3 SA.

Not responsive enough? Sanwa buttons are the most sensitive around. If you haven’t modded the Wii Fighting Stick, then those are Hori buttons. Maybe the buttons in your V3 SA are worn out and really old. Sanwa buttons should register by just breathing on them too hard.

[Alpha_Challenger]

Not responsive enough? Sanwa buttons are the most sensitive around. If you haven’t modded the Wii Fighting Stick, then those are Hori buttons. Maybe the buttons in your V3 SA are worn out and really old. Sanwa buttons should register by just breathing on them too hard.

You do have a point there. I did purchase my Hori V3 SA later on after its release, so maybe somehow by chance I purchased a defective Arcade Stick. Thanks for letting me know about that.

[kuradoberijamfr]

If he’s doing a wood box, he’ll likely have to go GN unless he cuts out the notches in the wood and snaps into the plexi.

He can also put seimitsu small switches into sanwa screw-in buttons, although this will be expensive .

[Azure]

LS56, with an octo gate + Sanwa buttons

[Amerika]

I use the Joystick with agility, meaning that I like to make my Joystick movements fast. I’m not familiar with all of the slang terms, but if “riding the gate” means making the Joystick touch the gate, I don’t do that. I like octagonal gates the most. I feel like when I use the Sanwa JLF that is in the Wii Fighting stick I feel that my character is jumping around either back and fourth(Such as when I try to perform Terry Bogard’s “Power Geyser” move, or Ryu’s “Shoryuken” move). I don’t really feel that comfortable with the long throw and loose spring of the JLF. I tried them in both my Hori Wii Fighting Stick and the Hori V3 SA, and neither of them really suit well with my preferences. I hope that this makes things easier to explain.

You are like me if you don’t like a long throw for your fighters. I have a Seimitsu LS-56 with an octagon gate and it’s pretty godlike for anybody who wants a quick throw. JLF is wayyyyyyyy too squishy and non-responsive for my tastes and the LS-56 was perfect. And I’d suggest Sanwa buttons. I’ve tried both Sanwa and Seimitsu and the Sanwa’s simply feel more responsive. But, they are extremely sensitive so if that bothers you then you may want to go the route of Seimitsu there as well.

[syn13]

I love the “Playskool” buttons!

Unfortunately the PS-14-G and 14-GN buttons are not the same from what I can tell, the GN’s are screw ins and are not flat like the G’s.

For me, I like to hit my buttons hard so definitely down with Seimitsu push buttons but for the stick lever, I use either a standard JLF or LS-56. The JLF so that when I have to use loaner sticks, they don’t feel weird and the arcade here only uses JLFs, the 56 was mainly for shmups with an octagonal gate but I soon found it hard to find corners in fighters so I eventually swapped the octagonal gate back to the square gate. I don’t like the LS-32 because of it’s pivot problem and the LS-40 seems like a fixed version of the 32 so I never bothered since I love the 56…

[Scaffa]

For me it’s Seimitsu LS-32 and 6 Sanwa’s.

[Foegrinder]

I like the ls-58 and seimitsu ps-14 g’s. Right now I have a Hori EX-SE (ls-32 and ps 14 g’s) and a Hori SCV- with the ls 58 and sanwa buttons. I am thinking of swapping the buttons from one to the other but- i should wait for someone to stock them (this way i can get all the same color and wouldn’t have to open two cases) I am so impatient sometimes; i hope i can hold out

[333charles333]

Semitsu LS-56 with octo gate for everything 2D especially fighting games, Semitsu buttons too (hovering your hand over Sanwa buttons give you fatigue).

Other good solid options are some of the other Semitsu models, a modified JLF, a K stick and a hit box (all of which you’ll have too look into the pros and cons of).

Things have changed since this thread was made.

Sanwa JLFs where used a lot in the past but they suck, (Sanwa buttons are debatable but I personally dislike them, as it’s more comfortable to rest my fingers on buttons) don’t listen too people who tell you too go JLF and square gate for arcades, arcades are a thing of the past (you’ll spend $40 a day in the arcades easily and still not be that good - arcades are just a scam - there akin too gambling, people did it in the past because it was the only way), online play is where it’s at in 2018 and real life meet ups (where you bring your own stick), I also frequent 3 or 4 gaming bars regularly where again you bring your own stick - this is how people play in public nowadays - not at arcades, you can play all you want for free aslong as you buy 1 drink. You do not need a JLF to match some shoddy cabinet built from poor parts for sh#¥. Even most “arcades” of today will usually have a console available that you can plug your fight stick into, this is common place for Guilty Gear and Blazblue (but they charge you an obscene amount to use this option $2 a match can be $15 or more an hour - you may aswell just go to a gaming bar with your stick and log into your steam or console account).

The days of having too try and match parts too arcade cabinets for familiarity are long gone.

(There are more gaming bars then arcades in London and it goes down harder then the arcades often when it comes to fighting games).

[jopamo]

Six years. Six years this thread slept soundly. I’m glad you dislike Sanwa parts. It makes me love my JLFs and OBSFs even more now.

Here’s the part where you explain how you’re not just @deep_333 with another account (also made in the last day, and bitching about stuff that is just your preference)

[AlphaCharlie]

Sanwa JLF stick and Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons. Done.

Is it the best parts set-up ever? That’s up for debate but, it’ll serve you well in nearly everything. I’m a big fan of the JLF’s square gate also. It just works so well.

Edit: And if you don’t like the clicky’ness of the controls, you can pay a little more and buy “silent” versions of these parts. The noise difference is huge.

[pennybags]

Yeah, but any set-up will serve you in nearly everything. An all-Happ setup will work fine for just about any game too but it’s a wildly different experience from the JLF and most people will prefer one or the other.

[AlphaCharlie]

I disagree about Happ. The masses moved away from Happ/U.S style for a reason. Japanese style has much better ergonomics and responsiveness. Happ parts were built less for such things in mind, and more for being Tonka tough and able to withstand countless hours of serious abuse.

[pennybags]

I wish they hadn’t. I don’t really like stock Japanese parts at all.

Anyway, I really wonder how much of that is the innate suitability of the parts and how much of it is “the Japanese are using these parts, and the Japanese are good at the game, so it must be the parts making them good.”

[AlphaCharlie]

Spoken like someone who hasn’t spent much time with japanese parts, otherwise you wouldn’t say such things. It’s not a “fad”, or blindly following the japanese like sheep. There are legit advantages to their design. I could write an entire essay on Ball top Vs Bat top alone.

Like i said above, japanese parts were designed with ergonomics, comfort and effectiveness in mind. Durability came second. While Happ did the reverse by making sheer durability the top priority of their design, and function came second.

I grew up with U.S style parts and was skeptical of the japanese stuff. It took only one evening of playing on a friend’s Sanwa stick to convert me. After that i never looked back. The design of japanese parts just feels much more natural.

[jopamo]

Anyway, I really wonder how much of that is the innate suitability of the parts and how much of it is “the Japanese are using these parts, and the Japanese are good at the game, so it must be the parts making them good

Like i said above, japanese parts were designed with ergonomics, comfort and effectiveness in mind.

You both seriously make me LOL. You want the REAL story as to why so many now use parts from Japan?

1. Most fighting games are products of Japanese companies.

2. HAPP is no longer HAPP, but is now SUZO HAPP. Since that has occurred, their product quality has taken a nosedive into the shitpile. All those nice MANLY parts we grew up using on American cabs are now shadows of their former selves. Many people have never heard of Industrias Lorenzo, nor considered going with something similar without “HAPP” in the name.

3. As Western arcades dwindled, Asian arcades thrived. Fighting games on home consoles continued to be relevant globally. Westerners craved “authentic arcade feel.” Japanese stick manufacturers (Hori) always used parts from their home team. American stick manufacturers (Mad Catz) picked what was A) relevant in the only remaining arcade scene, and B) readily available from suppliers in China (where Sanwa and Seimitsu stuff is ALSO made) to make their sticks. Sanwa became more popular because (to Mad Catz) “the price was right.”

4. Stuff that becomes relevant (with no competition) becomes the STANDARD. It’s got absolutely nothing to do with “ergonomics and responsiveness.” It has to do with being in the right place, at the right time—for a LONG TIME.

/story

When it comes down it (“it” being arcadestick parts), it’s all personal preference. I—at first—didn’t really dig Japanese parts after coming back into fighting games w/ SF4. Now, when I play that old Super Turbo cab in the corner of my local dive bar…I smile, shake my head and chuckle…marveling at “how far we have come.”

Personally, I’ve come to think of American style parts as complete shit. Some of my buddies that are into restoring arcade cabs think I’m nuts. See? Personal preference.

[Darksakul]

If you want old School Happ, what you really want is IL also known as Industrias Lorenzo (a company in Spain).
Old school Happ parts that were good was really re-branded IL parts.

The current poorly made Suzo-Happ parts is made in some random factory in China with poor Quality control.

Now American/European parts are built for durability over precision.
Japanese parts favor precision durability.
Both will last 20+ years or more with proper care and maintenance.

And you have a 3rd option in Korean Parts which has a mix of traits from the other two. Kinda a Jack of both trades master of none deal.
Korean Sticks allow you to go neutral without going dead center. Supposedly great for games like Tekken.

Regardless, everyone’s own results will vary

[pennybags]

In the olden days you had stuff like the “Pelikan Real Arcade” and the SF 30th Anniversary stick, so I don’t find this explanation entirely convincing. If people were beating down the doors asking for Happ/IL, someone would make a stick.