Ha ha ha oh shit your right
Still -50 points for Gryffindor, Mr Potter is off the Quidditch team, oh and Ms Granger you failed the exam because no one likes a smarty pants.
Wanted to post and say thanks to the major contributors on this thread. I have just finished my Venom Stick mod.
Sanwa JLF-TPRG-8AYT-SK Silent Joystick (with a 2lb spring, Kowal oversize actuator and octagon gate)
Sanwa OBSC-30-C Buttons (with Silencer washers from Focus Attack)
Under defeat art using the template posted here
Pretty pleased with it and I am liking the upgraded joystick a lot.
Thanks again!
Also, does anyone have a shareable source for hi-res game art? I really struggled to find art (especially for classic games of course) of a high enough resolution to make it usable.
When im printing out my artwork, what size does the paper have to be?
Can I use the standard A3 size?
Also, should I be printing out the artwork with the holes of the button layout or just the full artwork and manually use the plastic case to make the outline and cut it?
With button layout
I usually go without the button layout, as those button layout circles are rarely alighted 100% accurate.
I use the panel as a template and use a pencil to lightly mark where the button holes go on the backside of the art.
I cut button holes out slowly with a hobby knife or xacto knife with a fresh blade.
Hey, Does anyone know if the Venom has enough space in the case for a Korean lever?
Thinking about trying to pick up one of these 2nd hand cheap and then spending the difference on new parts to build it up to standard, and after seeing how pretty everyone’s is the temptation is growing.
It only work if you find a Korean joystick with Japanese style mounts
Sweet, Thank you I guess that means a Crown will fit and do then, unless I change the plate of a Fanta
At the moment I plan to spray my venom with some lacquer based paint I’m sick of how boring the black case makes my art look, although I’m thinking of going with new art so may design that first.
Does anyone feel the lever is kind of stiff on the stick? Also does anyone have any artwork from Guilty Gear that they’ve used or know print size?
Hi folks,
Going to be modding this like Biggz has into a hitbox style one. I’ve already ordered the Venom off of Amazon (£69.99). Have reached out to a few laser cutting companies for the acrylic sheets that I need, one has quoted me £63.99 + VAT which seems a bit steep but they can turn it around in 24 hours (I am far too impatient). Will see what the other companies quote me.
As for buttons I’ll be ordering them off of ArcadeWorldUK. 12 x 24mm and 1 x 30mm Sanwa buttons. I’ve messaged Biggz to find out what wiring I need.
I have been racking my brains figuring out how to build a hitbox and chanced across this thread via Amazon (and Biggz posts) :clapdos:
Not sure about Artwork just yet. As soon as I’ve made some progress I’ll share with you guys.
I figured I’d reply here so everyone can benefit. First off, anyone coming straight to this post look at the previous page for my write up when I actually modded my stick. The following answers are from memory 
Also DontPoke on Reddit has incorporated one of my suggested improvements in to the acrylic design, smaller screw holes, his post can be seen here.
I ordered 15 OSBF-24 Snap-in buttons and one OSBF-30 Snap-in, I’m not sure about the screw ins, I think they are bigger diameter underneath the button. I’m not sure on the dimensions of those 
The 15 buttons were for; 8x action buttons, left, down, right, ps4 button replacement, share, option… cant remember what the last was for but it’s not wired in 
The 30mm button is for jump.
If i remember right you go in via the bottom of the case removing 4x screws, then remove the stock snap-in buttons. This should let the top acryllic layer be removed, it is only held on by magnets.
Once the top acrylic layer is removed it reveals a metal plate, the screws to remove this line up with the screw holes in my acryllic templates.
Again going from memory, the venom PCB is pretty good but it doesn’t provide SOCD cleaning I dont think, but I used it with SFV and nothing funny happened and the game only reported one direction being pressed.
If you’re using the stock PCB it’s very easy to make in to a hitbox. I originally made a hitbox for PC only, out of a plastic box using a Zero Delay USB Encoder (something like this, but it’s not the exact one ). You dont need that PCB, but it comes with extremely handly cables. The Venom board is pretty good in that it has a 5pin ribbon cable for the existing joystick (or replacements) and it also has those 2pin terminals that those wires can use.
I think the biggest reason I switched to Brook UFB was that it’s SOCD cleaner would produce UP when DOWN and UP were pressed, that and I had a UFB and it’s a waste not using it.
I used 3mm thick acrylic which the original acrylic is, but the metal plate I replaced is more like 2mm thick. This doesn't make a noticable difference. Tools for button replacement is a screwdriver set, probably get away with a cross head screwdriver only :P
I incorporated screwholes in to the top as the stock Venom acrylic is held on by magnets, this mod isn’t.
I’d say give it a go with the stock venom PCB and some of those wires from Ebay, no soldering needed. At that point if you feel you want to upgrade to UFB then it’s not much harder.
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Thanks for all this really handy information really useful! Just one thing I am a little unclear on (sorry if I am being thick) -
The wiring - could I use different wiring than the eBay example e.g. like the recommended wiring on ArcadeWorldUK? https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/10-x-1-metre-long-insulated-2-8mm-crimped-wires.html
Do I need to daisy chain the directional buttons?
Would it be okay to use the Sanwa OBSC-24-C & 30-C Snap-ins or do I have to use the OBSF buttons?
[quote=“Biggz, post:773, topic:173679”]
Edit: I’ve bought the above kit from Amazon for £6.99
You could use that wiring, but if you’re going to use the Venom PCB you’d have to crimp (solder?) on the 2pin connectors. I used that cable when I installed my Brook UFB. I just cut to length, stripped 5mm off the end and screwed in to the terminals on the UFB.
Not if you use the cables bought with a Zero Delay USB encoder in to the Venom PCB.
Yes if you use the cable linked from Arcade world in to a Brook UFB, or similar.
I’ve not used those but I believe the only difference is OBSC are translucent and OBSF are not. You may get a definite answer if some kind soul looks here, or you could ask on the [Absolute Question and answer thread](Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)
Don’t know if anybody has pointed this out but I had constant problems with my SANWA stick squeeking after each click , started squeeking on the right, fixed it, then left and then down. It can almost go unnoticed but once you do, it is all that you will hear. :#
Carefully open up the micro switches and put some kind of canned lubricant on the tiny red plastic prongs and fix it. I just did all 4 at the same time.
What is produced when you press up + down on the Venom PCB? I’m also going to be doing this mod but I plan on just using the Venom PCB and I’m likely going to be using the hitbox for Tekken 7.
After some testing with a couple of screwdrivers it turns out the Venom PCB behaves like so:
L+R = L (always, doesn’t matter which side you’re on in what game etc).
U+D= U.
Something for anyone who wants to do this mod should bear in mind.
This sounds about right, I remember there being something annoying with the venom that made me want to swtich back to the UFB You could buy a SOCD cleaner but at that point i’d rather just put the money towards a UFB or a PS4+ AUDIO FIGHTING BOARD
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Hi there,
newbie here in stick universe, made my first mod, thanks to this forum and johnnytoxic’s templates :
https://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/985317GookiVenom01.jpg
Happy with my new Venom !