toodles you genius 0_0!!!
That is freakin gorgeous.
Nice work I can’t wait to have a stick with your board in it =D
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290129142548
Bid early, bid often.
Ebay for an assembled one it up. Now to work on the installation instructable.
Aw…no buy it now? 
(sorry, I’ve been slacking on ordering pieces…this is something that would save me a ton of time…guess I’ll have to bid like everyone else!)
Something I’m not 100% clear on here - we need to make console to db9 adapter cables for this, right? Have you already posted the pinout someplace, or is that part of the instructable you’re working on?
No BIN 'cause I wanted to see what the value of an assembled one is. If the auction goes well enough to make it worth my while, I’ll start offering assembled ones. If you want to buy an unassembled oneright now, there is the sale thread. 
For making the cables (15 pin BTW, not 9) check either of the two Instructables on ‘How to Make a UPCB Cable’. The Instructable links are in the first post.
Version 1.4 released, first post updated. Changes include:
- On-the-fly button remapping. Hopefully I can explain this in English decently; I know I can be hard to read sometimes. If you are using the optional programming button, you can use it to remap the buttons on your stick. It works like this: Hold down the button you want to remap, hold down the programming button, hold down the buttons you want the original button to activate, and release the programming button. If there are no buttons pressed when you release the programming button, then the first button will be disabled. You can change the button mapping around, disable buttons, and make a single button press multiple console buttons. There is support for only 8 buttons to remap, so if you’re using the two additional button option, then start and select can’t be remapped; otherwise, they can. You CAN use this as a way to disable the start button for tournament mode; just press start, press program, release start, release program. To reset a button to original, hold down the button, press and release program. All mappings are reset when unplugged. A true tournament mode not requiring a program button is planned in the future.
- Initial code for GameCube support, but doesnt work yet. I may have to write it all in Assembly to make sure the timing is right.
- USB device identifier is updated based on the revision (e.g. 1.4) number and the option mode (L for LEDs, B for Buttons, X for no option ‘Base’, ‘P’ for programming) If you go into Device Manager, Human Interface Devices ->USB Human Interface Device, right click Properties, you’ll see it listed under Location.
- Please only select the HEX version that matches your stick. If you are not using a programming button, don’t use a version ending in P. If you’renot using LEDs or the extra buttons, choose the ‘X’ base version. You’ll have better performance by matching it up as best you can.
Just counted up; 3,500 lines of code written by me, and another 3000 in the modified Microchip USB code. Yikes.
Taiki, the additional button support is taking up a lot of code. I better see you with one of these in your stick
My god. When these go on mass production, all my sticks will be getting one.
I know Toodles, I was just poking fun. 
I don’t think I’ve mentioned it in here, but I run my own company - http://www.oss-solutions.com . It keeps me VERY busy. That was more a remark on my time availability than anything. The ball tops I’m working on aren’t all that time consuming, but I’ll be doing good to get those done, let alone hunt down a bunch of samples, set up an eeprom programmer, etc, etc etc,
So yeah, a fully assembled one is very interesting to me. 
I’ll bid.
Augh, Toodles! Your stick there is frighteningly similar to the stick I’m making. White base, and exactly the same Seimitsu buttons and ball top. Good taste man…
Oh, and if you don’t think a non-technical post belongs in this thread, tell me and I’ll delete it.
Alright guys, time for feedback. What’s holding you back from getting and using a UPCB? That I can fix; its not my problem if your waiting for your PICs to arrive or for payday. What feature(s) would make you go ‘I gots to get me one of those NOW’?
Gamecube support?
Xbox Support?
Record and Playback?
Ability to program the playback file on your computer and flash onto the UPCB?
Dreamcast support?
Instructions on stick installation?
Wii Classic Controller support?
Availability of pre-soldered UPCB’s?
Ability to pay and have someone else install it in your stick?
Ability to plug it directly into a TV and play Tetris like those cheap controller based plug in systems? (Yes, this is actually possible)
Ability to run a massive matrix of LEDs for stick uber bling?
Pre-assembling console cables for sale?
Help me out here. I need these to move in order to justify the time spent on it.
DC support
Lower kit cost
Nothing is holding me back, but if it’s a wishlist you want…
First a question. The UPCB is smart in the sense that it knows what system it is hooked into at any given point, correct? What would happen if I were to wire up some sort of a db9 slice, and have it hooked into multiple systems simultaneously at this point?
The reason I ask is my arcade cabinet. It has 4 players, and each has up/down/left/right, coin, start, and then I went with the X-Arcade layout for buttons, so you have the 6 typical SF buttons, then 2 more buttons off-set to the left. If the UPCB supports that many inputs for the PC, then what I would ideally do is have it wired USB to the PC, and perhaps some powered-down consoles that I’d want to fire up from time to time. If the inputs all switched automagically, then I could safely just use some sort of video switch.
Oh, and extra credit for getting it to play nice with arcade PCB’s.
If the above were all true, then you could safely sign me up for 5. Once for my “portable” stick, and 4 for my cabinet.
The price of the Kit part is about as low as it will go at $18, and frankly I feel pretty good about. Compare with the prices of the components from Digikey and you’ll see why. I may end up scrapping the Output D-Sub 15 ribbon connector, because its spendy and harder to install in a stick; a regular female D-Sub 15 port is cheaper and easier to install in a stick, but requires the ribbon to be hand soldered on.
The PCB part I would like to see lower, and if purchased in a good number, definitely would be. But that’s still a good chunk of money for a large order I’m not sure I can afford at the moment.
I’m not certain I fully understand you here. The UPCB uses the pins out of the 15 that are NOT used by the console to detect which console is connected; each are pulled high or low and these are checked by the UPCB before it runs any console specific code. Once its identified the console, it runs the console code in a while(1){} loop where it stays until it is power cycled. Directly connecting it for multiple consoles isn’t possible, but using a switch like the old printer port switches is very possible.
Sure. You can easily use high density 15 pin (VGA) connectors instead of the normal D Sub 15 connectors, the soldering would just be a little tighter. I just recommend you keep the pinout to keep from making things confusing.
Already does with the Neo-Geo mode. I was testing it out on my Consolized MVS, and it should work swimmingly on any Jamma pcb, as long as you wire in a port matching the pinout. I’ve already been asked about JVS support, but I havent found any usuable information on it yet; Frankly, I would love to have JVS support, at least so I could wire up a naomi in my cabinet without an uber spendy capcom I/O board. At least I THINK I could; I have a lot to learn about JVS.
Hmm. Interesting stuff Toodles. The real kicker with me (and not really your problem I might add) is being able to switch more or less seamlessly between DC/PC/Jamma/whatever else I feel like cramming in there.
If you have suggestions on that I’d love to hear it.
xbox and dreamcast support, and the piggyback thing for the xbox360 with instructions in english for that (I mean non tech language).
Instructions on stick installation and I have leds and rumble motors installed on my stick, can you make that work?
Ill buy one for dc and xbx support if the 360 thing works maybe 2 or 3.
a “Sho!Sho!Sho!Sho!Sho!Sho!Sho!Sho!” button. I guess that kind of links right into recording/playback.
Mmm. I think I need to look again at the mode file you have sent. My current issue is my analog red emulation cannot persuade the console does to go into PS2 analog mode i.e. clocking at 500kHz with 4 byte of joypad button/stick data. . I’ve will have another look at the file you referenced as I’ve just noticed there are some more handshaking info on it. I will give them a go… Are there any more detail documentation i.e. with more blah blah to explain the different console interrogation modes?
If we’re talking pie-in-the-sky ideas…how about this one? Bluetooth. Adds a chipset to the board, sadly…but on the other hand, you could pair the controller wirelessly to multiple PC’s, and even a mobile phone (why you would want to, I have no idea…).
Extra credit would be to get the ID’s of the wii classic controller, and spoof as a real wii controller. Wiiiiiiii…