Universal PCB (eventually) thread

sounds roughly the same size as the pcb in a doa4 stick. very nice indeed!

Very close in size; slightly shorter, slightly wider.

Damnit, how do I always end up putting important shit on the last post of a page?

First post updated; make sure to keep checking it.

It’s been over a week and still there is no notice of my order of kits parts being shipped. I sent them an email to check on the status; If I dont get something from them by tomorrow, I’m gonna go ahead and put up the bare PCB’s for sale. The kits are still planned, but will be with or without the PCB, whenever they come in.

(PS2 works fully now, BTW.)

New Instructable on making a Button Select USB cable. Mostly a cut and paste from the SNES one, but since everyone with a UPCB should have a Button Select USB cable for doing the firmware upgrade, I gave it an Instructable of its own.

Edit: Ah. The problem with the kit was that I gave a PO Box and they ship Fedex. I paid for speedy deliver, so hopefully I’ll see it early next week. crosses fingers

Count me in. :slight_smile:

Wish I could be of more help on the Dreamcast front. The XBox conundrum as I understand it is that you must present yourself as a USB HID device with a very particular Product ID and Device ID. I don’t recall if actual communications are encrypted or not, but a third-party XBox controller should be able to provide a basis for comparison. The fact that you can install drivers in a PC for an XBox controller and use it should be testament to the fact that there’s not much special about it.

(Or was it the 360 that still had pending issues…?)

Kit parts are in transit, and estimate delivery for Friday morning. Woot. Let me crunch some numbers and I’ll put up a selling thread, so I can turn around and ship them out on Friday to those who want.

The xbox differences are the specific way data is reported, the fact it is both a hub and a device connected to that hub (with 2 potential slots), the fact is doesnt report an HID descriptor…shouldn’t be difficult to implement, just requires a lot more USB knowledge than I currently have. GC and DC should be done before then, unless someone with USB knowledge wants to step up and help coding. Xbox360 has the hardware key problem that I cant even describe because I can’t find any information on what it does or how it works.

Yay, my PICs are in transit from the Thailand warehouse.

As far as Xbox/360 goes, aren’t there Open Source Xbox/360 drivers out there?

My samples arrived today. jawesome

Sale thread is up: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?p=3991373#post3991373

Any bare PCB orders will go out tomorrow. Kits will be sent as soon as they arrive and are tested. If they sell out, great, it’ll be about 2 weeks to refill.

just thought id bump this

Well, I’m going to work on getting it installed into my HRAP2 so I can take pictures and make another Instructable. I’m gonna just do it and take the pictures and write the Instructable after it’s done. It’ll be easy, the only part I’m worried about is Dremelling out the spot the DB-15 connector will be mounted on the back. Once that’s done, the rest is a cake walk.

BTW, anyone who’s got their PICs, it looks like you might be able to build your own USB based programmer.

But don’t hold me to that.

You can, but if you want to build your own programmer, it is pretty simple, and far less parts, to build a JDM programmer that supports ICSP. Then you can just use the ICSP connection on the UPCB.

FYI, UPCB w/ ICSP JDM < $ than USB. OK!

ICSP JDM using only 3 4.7k resistors : http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/archive/index.php/t-703.html

Or you can buy any of the ICSP programmers from Olimex for under $10.

I was looking on some sites and it seemed that the PIC itself had a pin for USB programming? I guess I was wrong!

edit:

http://www.mecanique.co.uk/products/usb/easyhid.html

I was right! But it lacks a debugger. So…

Nope, you were wrong. I posted up places to get one of the best debuggers (www.blueroomelectronics.com), places to cheaply buy a plain programmer that would work (www.olimex.com), and ways to cheaply and easily make your own programmer (google for ‘JDM’). Please don’t put misinformation in this thread.

The UPCB DOES use a bootloader, so it can be updated via USB without needing anything more than a button select USB cable. However, it DOES need to have to bootloader programmed onto the PIC before you can update it this way; this part requires a true PIC programmer. This was plainly described in the first post.

Wow, does this mean you have the PS2 emulation working in Analog Red mode? I’m still chasing down a lead who may be able to throw some light on this topic. So it mean that you tweaking the ATT line has made it all better?

I haven’t tried adding any other PSX controller modes yet; it’s a pretty low priority. It is still in digital mode. The red analog mode is only 4 bytes more data and a different reponse ID, so I’m very confident a very slight tweak to the code and the two analog modes will be working. Dual Shock 2 support will be a little more demanding, but still doable.

Yes, tweaking the ATT line was all I did. After the second byte, I had a ton of places where I was waiting for the next byte of data to come in, but not checking if the ATT line was still down. Made it so it also checked the ATT line when reading in a byte form the PSX, and it works like butta’ now.

Ah well, miracles don’t happen over night. I’ll keep you posted on my findings. Fingers crossed for both for us then…

Im a bit confused. What pieces are you missing to figuring out dualshock 2? We know the configuration commands and responses for setting up DS2 mode. What more is needed for you to accomplish what you need?

Installation in the HRAP2 is finished. I haven’t started the instructable on it yet, but got lots of pictures. Here’s a taste for now:

I decided to try something that worked out pretty well. I know there was nothing I could put in place of the switches, so I figured I should at least try to use them a little. I wired up the ‘slow’ switch to the record/playback button on the UPCB. It’s the purple wire coming from underneath the switches. Of course I still need to code in record/playback support, but one small victory at a time.

Looks GREAT!!