Ok, I need a hint as to where to check on my UPCB for 360 piggyback issues.
I was finally putting my upcb’s in my modded SF4 SE sticks, and I’ve finally also gotten around to doing the 360 piggy backs. My first stick is fine, the UPCB works with no issue, and the 360 piggy back works fine.
My second stick, has some weird issues sometimes with the piggy back. The UPCB works fine and has no issues except when I try to enter 360 mode (holding F + RH). Sometimes in Windows, I get a device error [device not recognized/usb device malfunctioned], but if I keep removing and replugging in the usb into my computer, it will eventually register in 360 mode. If I don’t hold F + RH, it works fine in normal mode.
The problem is, it’s inconsistent. Sometimes it might register on the first try, sometimes it will require a lot of uplugs before it registers correctly. Also, the light on the 360 ring always lights up, so I know power is going through the 360 piggyback. When it doesn’t work, the whole ring lights up until it eventually turns off. When it does work correctly, the whole ring lights up, then 1 player in the upper left lights up (as normal for 360).
In the original Document of neogeo.h the +5V at older Videogame Systems are defined at Pin 5 of the SUB-D 9 pin Connector.
But for amiga its wrong: You will find 5V at Pin 7 of SUB-D 9 pin Connector.
Ok, nevermind. Found a bad solder on the 14 pin IC socket. Once I resoldered it, it works fine now. Woot. Thanks again to Toodles for creating this thing in the first place and supporting it for so long.
Ok, well, looks like something went wrong somewhere. The UPCB works fine for PS3, 360, Gamecube and pc, however, it doesn’t seem to work for my ps2. The cable seems to test fine in connectivity. I could’ve sworn it worked before setting up the 360 piggyback install, but now I can’t be sure of anything anymore. Anyone have any ideas? (I’ve tried 2 cables and 2 UPCBs).
*Edit: Backtracking through the thread, I might be having a similar problem to wolfsoft. My original psx/ps2 cables were button select cables [like wolfsoft’s original cables]. I’m going to convert them to digital only and report back.
**Edit 2: Ok, so, that didn’t work. Cable still tested right, UPCB gets power (I know because the 360 piggy back lights up for a split second), and then nothing. I know the PS2 ports are live and working, because other controllers still work. The UPCB works fine in my other main systems, so I’m lost. Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Ok, I disconnected my piggyback and the PS2 support worked right away.
Anyone have any ideas for a workaround for supporting both the piggyback and PS2 without having to connect/reconnect the piggyback? Or maybe I missed something else somewhere?
I’m wondering if there are issues with more than a few of the PS2 cables out there…
I just tested the RJ45 cable soldered to my MC Cthulu and it’s transmitting power fine. The USB cable I installed an RJ45 head to works fine with the MC Cthulu and the stick performs extremely well on the PS3.
My issue is with a Hori cable I salvaged from a Hori PCB that I um messed up in an accident. I’m thinking the culprit is the PS2 cable Hori made and perhaps not the MC Cthulu.
I tested the lines on the Hori cable before and after an RJ45 head and they seemed to work okay. The issues arise after powering up the PS2 and the joystick always seems to become inoperative after game bootups.
Any recommendations for a good PS2 extensions that’s worked for someone who’s done either a regular MC Cthulu or RJ45 mod? Is there a reliable third party vendor for extension cables? I know these cables are easy to find but the manufacturers appear to be all over the place in quality let alone the colors they use for the signal lines within the cords. There’s no getting around using multimeters for the the mods.
Thats a known issue in the MC Cthulhu, that isn’t present in the UPCB.
Your wiring is fine, but for the time being, you need to replug the controller when the PS2 soft resets, like with HD Loader, or emulation compilation discs like SFAC.
I’ll try the PS2/Hori cord again and see how it goes… May have to get other extension cords at any rate because the Hori cords (all joysticks) aren’t that long and the recutting to refit with the RJ45’s is shortening the cord. It’s getting shorter on the interior length in front of the retainer stop for the cord (the thing that holds it in the hole notch for the Hori stick and keep the cord from getting pulled out of the case).
I take it the UPCB is indevelopment and not being sold yet?
Other than that issue, it (the Cthulu) is a NICE replacement for the PS3 boards that go bad and is a good way to recycle old joysticks. I liked the fact that I could add a Home Button for PS3 play! It’s nice not to have to pick up a DualShock 3 to exit out of fighting game…
UPDATE:
Toodles, I did what you suggested.
I booted up my Swap Magic disc with a DS2 pad to play Fate/Stay Night Unlimited Codes on my PS2. After loading the game, I swapped the DS2 pad for the MC Cthulu-modded joystick and it worked like a charm!
I guess I should do more testing, but does anyone have any ps2 issues with extended play? The UPCB I was testing with worked right away, but it would cut out after a few rounds, and then it would intermittenly work. Replugging the cable into the ps2 would solve the problem for a few seconds, but then it could cut out again randomly. I have not had any problems with PS3 support, and 360 works fine for the more limited time I have used it. Gamecube/Wii still works great for Tatsunoko vs Capcom, so I don’t know what’s up with my PS2 support. Does anyone know if it’s more likely the UPCB board with my poor soldering? Or my ps2/psx cables (with my poor soldering)?
Are there issues with bad PS2/PSX cables? If so, I can probably sacrifice dual shock 2’s to do this…
Start up a game in training mode, and leave the stick there, untouched. If the problem doesn’t occur when left alone to sit there, its likely a loose/bad wiring problem, likely in the PSX d-sub.
See if the cutting out occurs without the 360 piggyback. If it works fine without the 360, either the 360 pad is freaking out, or there’s too much current being pulled and the PTC fuse is tripping.
I wanted the standard SFIV button mapping for xbox360
LP = X ; MP = Y ; HP = RB ; 4P = LB
LK = A ; MK= B ; HK = RT ; 4K = LT
I’m using the button select cable. With this button select cable xbox360 pad is activated with HP and HK. But this means that I’m pressing RB and RT, too. xbox360 controllers do them some automatic calibration and set RT to zero. Result is that RT can’t be used in game then and doesn’t react on button presses.
So I’ve changed the code in main.c and replaced LP and LK for xbox360 and HP and HK for xbox1. Works like a charm. I’ve a working hex file to contribute.
@ Toodles : do you think this is worth to release in an upcoming version? I don’t want to mess up the hex files here…
Toodles, any idea what could be causing problems with Saturn functionality?
In addition to L button not working properly (which isn’t THAT big a deal for playing SF) right direction doesn’t work (which is a bigger deal). If for example you are Guile on 2p side and try to hold back to charge, his walk animation is regularly jittery meaning no sonic booms heh!
I was having this same issue - all other systems work, but ps2 does not. Since I have a bit of time over the xmas break I thought I’d finally try to sort it out - opened the backshell and the +5v wire was disconnected - I soldered it all back together and was hoping that was the problem all along.
Nope - still didn’t work. Opened up my TE, disconnected the 360 pad, and now it works.
So I guess some combination of at least the v1.0 UPCB, 360 TE PCB, and my fat ps2 don’t like each other - presumably the 3.4V from the PS2 isn’t enough to power it all. Has anyone successfully combined a 360 TE and UPCB and also use the ps2 cable?
As some kind of workaround, do you think it would be possible to hook into the PS2’s USB port for the +5V?
Yeah, I haven’t really had time to work on my sticks either. I’m not 100% sure how it works, but I can tell that the piggybacks are pulling power, as the 360 button is lighting up for a split second.
However, I have 2 UPCB’s, and one is version 2.4[not sure the exact revision] and the other 2.5bp. The 2.4 revision I can plug into my 360 without holding out FP and RH and the piggyback works right away. The 2.5 BP requires that I hold FP and RH. So that’s some sort of weird separate issue all together. I really just need to flash the 2.4 to 2.5 (same as the other) and see that everything works exactly the same. If it exhibits similar issues as the other stick, then that means there’s something up with my PS2 cables.
My first issue is to determine why my stick stops working on the PS2 intermittenly, but I just haven’t wanted to mess with it yet. (this is with the piggybacks disabled) Next would be figuring out if it’s possible to keep the piggyback in and still be able to use PS2 functionality, which is where you’re at. I’ll post back if I ever get around to working on it again. It got so cold, I don’t want to go out into the garage to resolder anything if I don’t have to.
Quick update. I upgraded the firmware of the 2.4 to 2.5 BP (like the other UPCB that I have). I have noticed that with my 360 piggybacks plugged in (both made from 360 SFIV SE stick PCB’s), that I am unable to go into boot mode. I have to physically unplug the piggyback in order for boot mode to work. (I don’t know if this is just me or if this was posted somewhere else and I missed it). The newly flashed 2.5 BP seems to work perfectly with my PS2, so I know the cable is good.
I need to test the other cable, and if that one also works flawlessly, then that probably means that the other UPCB has some bad solders. I am dreading looking for issues on that one. :wtf: Given that, all that’s left is for me to figure out if there’s a reason why the piggybacks are causing issue, and if I can come up with a solution.
Looks like the problem with the PS2 cutting in and out had to do with the d-sub hood on my PS2 cables. If I move them a certain way, I believe it causes a short. I’ll be replacing the hoods and examining the wiring and removing any excess cable, so that should fix that issue.
Now to fix the piggyback causing ps2 support to not work issue. Almost there…Woot!
Ok, for those in the same situation as me (you cannot get things to work correctly with your 360 piggyback plugged in), I found a workaround. For me, I did testing involving disconnecting the 5v and ground lines going to the piggyback pcb. After doing so, the functionality for PS2 and boot mode in the UPCB worked. So, I bought a DPST switch (double pole, single throw switch), and put it in between each line. That way, with the flick of a switch, I can turn on PS2/boot mode support or 360 support without having to open up the stick. This works well for me.