I couldn’t get it to work. However, the UPCB identifies itself as v1.AX. I only have Mac and Linux machines at home so I can’t update the firmware right now but I assume updating to v2.5 will change the way it identifies itself and add xbox1 compatibility.
In perhaps related news, the default PS3 button mapping was all screwed up when I tested it. LP/MP were swapped as were LK/MK and HP/HK.
I bought the parts needed for the Rev 1.0 board, but I got a Rev 2.1 PCB.
1.) What are the major differences w/ installation?
[From what I can see, I have to buy a 33uF electrolytic capacitor, and three 20 pin shrouded male headers.]
2.) Can I use the same part to fit into the STICK_CONN, OPT_CON, AND ISCP?
[The schematic says that they use “slightly” different parts, but from looking @ everyone’s complete UPCBs, they look like the same part.]
3.) What are the STICK_CONN and OPT_CON used for?
[The Rev 1.0 and 2.1 have areas labeled differently]
4.) I heard that it was mandatory to add the 2-button option w/ this new version. What additional part(s) would I need to buy, and where on the UPCB would I have to solder them?
Thanks for the help!
I’m having trouble upgrading the firmware on my board. I get the following error when flashing the v2.5B version:
WARNING - Failed to program CONFIG DATA
MESSAGE - Programming CONFIG DATA...
MESSAGE - Programming FLASH Completed
MESSAGE - Erasing and Programming FLASH...
I of course made a backup of the firmware that was on there before flashing, and when I flash the backup there are no errors. What should I do to fix the error?
I had the same problem as you. Basically you have to follow the schematic and the image of the PCB in the first post of this thread, and ignore the instructable except for the testing bits.
I asked Toodles about the 33uF capacitor and he told me to use a 10uF one instead. I think it has something to do with the USB spec. He also said that if anything, you should err on the lower side i.e. if you can’t find a 10uF cap, use a 9uF or 8uF.
I used the same headers for all 3 connectors.
STICK_CONN is for 5 pin sticks. The inputs are labelled in the PCB graphic. OPT_CON I believe is for 10 pin sticks, but I have no idea what the inputs are supposed to be.
I don’t think it’s mandatory, but according to the schematic, you just add two of the pullup resistors. Total extra cost: about 10c.
FYI I used 4.7k ohm resistors as pullups instead of 10k because I did the same thing as you when buying parts. My board seems to be working fine for the most part. I also was unable to find a 0.4A PTC fuse, but the guy at the parts store sold me a 0.3A PTC fuse instead and it works.
Woohoo, it worked on my xbox after updating the firmware, and the buttons were all mapped properly.
Toodles, has anyone ever requested that the button select cable boot into the mode last used? I think it would be a useful feature.
Hey Toodles, what is the Digikey part number for the 2 pin header that you used for the program header on the 2.1 board?
I usually get the 40 pin breakaways like A26509-40-ND and snap off what I need.
I appreciate it sir, thank you. Hopefully I can get this thing finished and installed in my TE by next weekend.
I bought some additional parts for the REV 2.1 board, and in the meantime, I’m going to start making the console/USB cables. I looked @ the “allusb.h” file in the UPCB_25.zip, and it has D-Sub 15 Pin layouts for:
1.) Button Select
2.) USB Bootloader
3.) PS3
4.) PC
In the file, it states that:
“For each USB plug system supported, there will be a different pinout for a system specific cable; i.e. a cable for PS3 only, a cable for PC only, a cable for using the USB bootloader, etc. However, this does not mean you HAVE to make a different cable for everything.”
From the information provided, does that mean that I can just make ANY USB cable from the list of 4, and it would work for ALL of them?
No. It means that you can either make a specific one, or you can make a button select one that can be used for any of them.
Just make a button select cable and it’s all you’ll ever need for USB.
Hey Toddles, I have a problem with Xbox360 piggyback. All buttons works except ‘guide’. When I solder guide button and plug UPCB, the four leds just flashing one time and controller was not detected by Computer or Xbox360. I use MadCatz controler with common ground for the piggyback…
Have you ever seen this problem ?
Thanks
PS : Sorry for my bad English, I’m French…
I bet you will find the point you soldered for Guide is actually Ground, not Guide. Solder to the other half of the Guide button.
(mental note: change PB_GUIDE to open collector instead of regular output)
ROFL. Remember a few months ago when I made a GC cable and said I couldn’t figure out why it wouldn’t work? It’s because I didn’t realize that there were multiple modes and it required some button select to choose the mode before it would work correctly. 
After a lot of time away, I decided to give it another try and lo and behold, it worked without problem. I wish I had read the documentation a little more closely!
I’m just glad it was an oversight mistake and not an error in my soldering. Ungh, those mistakes are a huge pain to track down. Let this be a lesson to others, when in doubt, read your documentation closely!
Hm…Ok. So I was wrong, it doesn’t have anything to do with holding down buttons. For some reason, it was not working at all a few months ago, and now it works fine. I guess it’s a case of ghosts in the machine (or just bad soldering on my part). Same thing happened with my second pcb. Was working erratically the first day I soldered it, but now it works fine.
Ok, so quick question, does anyone know if the SF4 SE 360 controller can be piggybacked to the UPCB? It turns out I don’t have the time to build my own case/housing, so doing a mod on an SF4 SE stick would be much easier…
AFAIK it is common ground so yes, it should work.
I haven’t done it personally, but it should work pretty damn well.
Awesome, now I just need to get my hands on 2 of them…it never gets easy, does it?