Have you had a chance to figure out the XBox 360 code or do we still need a pad to piggyback?
TTFN
Have you had a chance to figure out the XBox 360 code or do we still need a pad to piggyback?
TTFN
Thanks! Okay, it all boils down to a multi Jamma set up with both 4 button and 6 button support, which we could use PS2 controlers on. So we can use the MVS, and then if we wanted to, the Jamma connector for 6 button games. Simplicity and accesability is kind of the goal here…
I understand it’s just a PCB and not a converter, but there’s not harm in trying…
All of the supported features are kept up to date on the first post.
If well funded Chinese and Korean grey market companies haven’t cracked it, ain’t no way I’ll be able to.
Still don’t understand what you’re trying to do. Be specific. Don’t know if you’re using a console inside the cabinet, trying to add support for PSX controllers to your cabinet, or what.
It works awesome as a converter, for converting common ground inputs that are one input per line (Jamma harnesses, NeoGeo sticks/pads, old Atari joysticks) to work on any of the supported consoles.
Sorry, I’ll try and be a little more detailed about it. Basically we want a Supergun/MVS set up with PS2 controler support. You can get Neo Geo > PS2 converters, but they will only convert four of the six buttons capable on the Jamma board. With Tekken for example it’s fine because it’s a four button game, but if we were to put A3 on through the super gun for example, we would only have four buttons. So what we want is a way to use all six buttons on a PS2 controler…
As I thought, just wanted to be sure.
Thanks,
Kaytrim
RAWK. I’m in for some blanks.
Nope, the UPCB can’t help with that. The UPCB pretends to be a PS2 controller; it doesn’t pretend to be a PS2. I suggest you get ahold of Laugh; there is a thread in trading outlet, something about ‘Supergun w/ PSX support’ or somesuch.
Sorry, I can’t find the thread you’re reffering to in search, could you point me in the right direction?
Hey Toodles, you going to make a thread in the Trading Outlet to take pre-orders? You’d get more exposure if you did.
For those who have a UPCB and a PS3, please try out this hex and let me know how it fares.
This one is compiled as an ‘X’, so the extra buttons or LEDs or program button wont work. This is just a test release, and Ill make a full release after I get some feedback. This .hex doesn’t have the bootloader, so make sure you use the PDFUSB to program the UPCB, and NOT a regular PIC programmer.
http://www.marcuspost.com/downloads/upcb/ps3_test.hex
I wanted to get some feedback from users before doing a proper release. I have personally used this on a PS3, and it worked awesome on the XMB, including diagonals, but Id like someone with access to VF5 or T5DR to give it a run.
All stick data is reported as XY axis, so those of you using the UPCB on the PC will find things easier as well; no more xpadder needed to play doujin games. It also means the PSN PS1 download games that dont use the analog stick like Symphony of the Night wont work (well, buttons will work, but not the stick). I have an idea to try later to see if I can fix that too but itll be abit before I can implement it.
Before anyone asks, no, there is still no workaround for BC games.
Please give it a try and any feedback, good or bad, it always appreciated.
Fourteen hours left to pre-order an assembled UPCB. Unless there is a massive flood of orders, this will be your only chance to order an assembled UPCB for quite a while; there have not been enough pre-orders to justify ordering a batch of assembled ones. If you want your UPCB already soldered, put in your pre-order now.
Bare PCB’s should be arriving in one week, and I’ll be placing an order for parts so I can offer kits to those who are interested.
So, how much would it cost me to get one that has everything put together? Pic programmed and all that jazz?
Ive read all your post, but I think I would need to see a completed one to realize how it works.
Payment sent, thanks!
If you hop on it, $45 for the assembled board, $6 for a programmed PIC, and $5 for shipping to you. The $45 gets you the guaranteed assembled board, and you can wait to pay the other $11 until its ready to ship to you.
Pre-orders are closed. There weren’t enough to justify getting a batch pre-assembled, but all of you who did preorder will be getting on assembled and tested by me. Those of you who wanted bare PCB’s, the boards should be arriving sometime this week; I would feel best having a chance to assemble and test out the boards first before mailing the PCBs. If you absolutely can’t wait for me to test them, let me know and I’ll ship them out, but I think we’d all be happier if any bugs were caught here first. Parts for kits were ordered and should arrive in under two weeks; As soon as the parts get here, I’ll get soldering and get them out and putting up prices on kits. They will be cheaper than the last batch, but I’m not certain by how much yet.
Thanks to having a three day weekend from class, I actually have a bit of time to work on the code. I’d really like to get the Saturn code working on the real console, so that’s what I’ve been doing. The Saturn code was written very simply, because hell, its a simple protocol for what we need. However, the code isn’t running fast enough. I’ve already done some speed optimization on the code, which makes it slightly messier but faster. Using a Magic Box converter, the newer code makes it run without any lag that I can perceive. With previous code, there was lag. Sadly, still not quite fast enough for the console. If I’m understanding this post correctly:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=509748&st=120&p=3518946&#
the Saturn waits only 2us (2 millionth’s of a second) before reading the response from the controller. That’s half the time the PSX waits for a single BIT! I’m guessing the delay with the current code is about 4us. So, more optimization. I got plans on how to do it, but damn is the code gonna look messy.
I’m in no rush, I’m happy to wait to be sure it’s all good. :tup:
So with these UPCB’s, this eliminates converter adapters and having only one arcade stick at all times?
I like to see a custom stick with this upcb ASAP.
Vapulus’ (pictures not showing up any more, which is a shame. All black lexan and uber sexy :
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?p=4206841&highlight=upcb#post4206841
Chaosdragon13’s, with tons o pictures:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?p=4112496&highlight=upcb#post4112496
Mine, from the instructable showing how to install it in a HRAP2:
The UPCB has now been NES tested, and I am finding it not to work all that well. It could be my wiring since its not as neat as previously, but being that I get such mixed results I highly doubt its the wiring.
Super Mario Bros. 3:
In the first level, every time I get to a certain point the game pauses itself and wont let me unpause. However this only happens if I am holding down the run button and hit jump in this one section. I can get past this point without this happening if I walk by. The fact that I can walk by and that it only happens in this one spot seems strange. I didnt try much of the game, only the first 4 levels, and this only happened in that one spot in the first level.
Double Dragons:
After hitting a few buttons or directions the game goes into that unpauseable pause.
Double Dragons 2:
Once you get into the game, hitting any button causes the unpauseable pause.
Super Mario Bros./Duck Hunt:
I cant even enter one of the games. Neither the select or start button will work on the game select screen.
Also what is interestin about the double dragons games is that to get to the game option screen, you normally have to hit start, but with the UPCB you have to hit select. Although once you pass this screen select acts like select again. I think the same thing happens with Mario 3 but I only started really noticing it with double dragons.
When testing these things I always tried them multiple times and even unplugged and plugged the controller between tries sometimes just to see if its something with the controller connection, but I always get the same results for a given game regardless of whether or not I reconnect the controller.
I have a few other games I can test it with if you want, but I would think I will get the same results.
Finally, I know its not a problem with my wiring inside the stick because I have been using it with the USB cable for the past two weeks to play computer games like La-Mulana.