Im talking about using it just with a SF anniversary pad not a stick though so would it work?
Hypothetically something like this:
Street fighter anniversary pad (used by player) > UPCB > Xbox 360 controller > Xbox 360 Console
I want a 6 button style pad that works on the 360 for the few friends that come over that love to play but are not good with sticks. They get beat and complain because I only have sticks lol
It should be do-able.
You would have to cut the cord to the controller and hack the controller similar to normal, but you would have to do so in a way that you wouldnt interfear with the buttons themselves. So like instead of soldering onto the pad that the button hits, solder onto the trace somewhere else down the line. Then have those wires come out of the back of the controller where the regular cord would normally come out of and hook the wires up to the connectors that hook into the UPCB where the buttons and joystick would plug into.
Then you would have to make the cords to plug into the system. So you would end up with a project box type system. I am not sure if it would be worth it or not to do this but it could be done.
If you are still interested in the idea, I picked up a few 3rd party controllers from a game store near me a while back for a dollar each, and one of them was a six button type. So I could look into it a bit and give it a try on that one to see how it would come out.
The only other easier way to do it would be to get a converter for PS->360, though I dont know if they make one or not since I havent have to look for one.
That’s exactly what he’s asking for.
Fallback, the UPCB has nothing to do with what you’re wanting.
Merry Xmas everyone! I think I’ve finished laying out the Rev 2.0 board, and it looks a little something like this:
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/7205/upcb2nd5.png
The little squres next to the labels ‘#2=GND’ and ‘#2=PROG’ are solder jumpers. A little solder is needed to bridge the two for what you want. If you choose to connect the ‘#2=PROG’, then the first four wires are going to be Select, Program, Start, and Ground, so you can wire up all three of these buttons. You’ll have to daisy chain the ground wires though. If you short the ‘#2=GND’, then you dont have to daisy chain anything. First two wires go to the Select button, next two wires go to the Start button, etc. You can still use the little spots marks PROG to run two wires to the Program button if you want a program button, or you can ignore it altogether and not use the program button.
If you dont understand what any of that means, short the ‘#2=GND’ one.
Also as promised is the Gerber/Excellon files for the Rev 1.0 board:
http://www.marcuspost.com/downloads/upcb/upcb1b.zip
If anyone wants to take these and get a crapton made, they are certainly welcome to do so. However, the 2.0 makes a few things easier to use, so I still recommend contacting me if you are interested in getting a bunch made.
I need to lay out the helper board I have in mind for piggybacking the PCB from a Hori EX2 or DOS4 stick. Once thats done, I’ll place the order for some test boards of the Rev 2.0 UPCB, test it, and if everything tests out ok, get pricing for assembled board so hopefully I can completely skip the idea of having kits.
^^ freagin cool project. Thank you and Merry Christmas!
won’t Laugh’s fine PS->JAMMA converter work with 360 pads that have a common ground?
It should, but doesn’t have anything to do with the UPCB. You could probably rig laugh’s converter up with a UPCB and piggybacked controllers to make an uber converter, but if someone has to ask how, they prolly aren’t ready to put it all together.
I was trying to nudge whoever asked that to look for Laugh’s stuff, then I realized that Laugh didn’t post about his ps ->jamma converter here, he posted it in the trading forum.
Looking good. What are the new dimensions going to be?
3.65" x 2.15"
EDIT: oops, forgot you were Kiwi. about 93 mm x 55mm
Thanks
Prototype of the new revision just arrived at my door. Aint it purty?
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/3664/dsc02892jpgwebuy7.jpg
Its a little longer than the first revision, but is MUCH thinner. The overall area of the board is far less than the first revision, even with the bigger 20 pin connectors for the buttons and piggyback connections. I spent a lot of time moving things around trying to get the best layout with the least wasted space. The big goal for me was making it thin enough to mount upright against the back wall inside an HRAP case. I’ll have to doublecheck with the piggyback headers on, but Im pretty sure it will.
I also took the size of the IDC connectors into better consideration; none of the big rectangular IDC headers come anywhere close to the mounting holes in the corners, the headers for the buttons and the stick are perfectly flush on this prototype. The piggyback headers do overhead off the end about 2 mm though. It looks like I missed a little. None of the parts are under the IDC headers, but you will want to solder the headers in last though; they come real close to some of the resistors.
Here it is compared with the rev 1.0 version I used for all of my testing.
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/9285/dsc02894jpgwebki8.jpg
I’m waiting for some parts to arrive in the mail before I can assemble it, though. Soon, damnit, soon.
Here’s another prototype I got in the mail today. I don’t know if there’ll be enough interest in getting a bunch made, but I got the one for me and for testing. Its made to go directly on top of the pcb from a DOA4 or Hori EX2 stick, and gives you a 20 pin piggyback header so you can just plug it in. For those that already have a rev 1.0 UPCB, you can still piggyback with one of those as well, and if you want the added perks, there are spots to run wires for the options you have.
There are a few built in perks. If I laid it out right and the parts work like I think they should, the board will keep the doa4 board unpowered until in use; NO extra power drain when the 360 isn’t being used. The 4066n chips will still be powered, but that’s like maybe 1 mA for everything; that ain’t shit. The Guide button is controlled by the UPCB via a separate pin; I’ll be updating the UPCB code to press it, probably from Select+Start. ALL of the buttons from the DOA4 stick are available, including both triggers and both bumpers, so if you have a UPCB setup with 8 play buttons, they’re all represented.
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/6976/dsc02890jpgwebcw5.jpg
And one last shot with a 9v battery to give an idea of their size.
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/8218/dsc02893jpgwebcp0.jpg
Eye bye Now!? :nunchuck:
heh, believe me, I’m not dragging my feet getting these out and available. As soon as this bad boy’s tested, I’ll get some quotes for assembled units and get some pre-orders going. I’d especially love to see one of these in one of your sticks.
Which brings me to a point I aught to hammer in for anyone thinking about one of these: You MUST, and I mean MUST have a good solid plan for mounting a DB-15 connector on the stick. It must be screwed/bolted/whatever and it must be solid. It’s the piece that will get the most wear and tear, most susceptible to people tripping over the cord, and the most exposed part of the UPCB. Please, plan, think it all of the way through, and mount that bitch SOLID. Mounting the exposed DB-15 in a half ass way would make the best of sticks look shitty, and die fast.
What I really need is a way to get small metal plates, with a Db-15 cut out and two to four holes in the corner for mounting. The DB-15 could me mounted to the metal piece with the normal hex bolts, the metal piece could be screwed or bolted into the wood solidly, and the hole in the wood case could be as half assed as you like since itd be covered by the metal plate. If anyone thinks they might be able to help with something like this, please let me know. I have NO metal work experience, and even though they make DB-15 metal punch and die kits, they cost like $500.
Looks nice. I cant wait to get my hands another one or two. I dont what I would do with them yet, but its something nice to have on hand incase its needed.
Since it seems to be quite popular for people to affix handles to their custom sticks, it would possibly make a degree of sense to have a mounting plate for both handle and DA-15 in one unit. I might draw something up in SolidWorks if I find the time.
EDIT: Drawing up a plate was easy enough, but I’m damned if I can convince SolidWorks to let me make the handle…
I gave up on wrangling with SolidWorks for the moment, but I did throw together this:
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x97/KDBA/upcbinside.png
It’s not perfect, but printed out on an inch-square sticker it should look alright.:nunchuck:
I would purchase some of these, btw. The metal plate would be a great idea.
Also, toodles, I’m still down for buying probably at least 4 of these UPCB’s when you get around to fabbin’ them. Let me know if pre-ordering would help you out in terms of fab cost when you get a quote.
Great stuff!! I’m actually fiddling around with converting NAOMI JVS -> PC USB, using a 18f4550 - and your source have probably saved me weeks of fiddling around with HID. It’s the JVS I/O that is my main focus…
If I ever get it to work, and you wan’t to include it in your project, it needs 3/4 pins on the PIC to drive a RS-485 transceiver.
Appreciated. There will definitely be pre-orders announced. I have two places in mind to get assembly quotes from, and as soon as I finish testing the UPCB I have out, I’ll get the quotes, crunch the numbers, and announce the preorder details. The support is, as always, very appreciated.
EDIT: I forgot to mention, I’ve assembled the v2 UPCB with every part I had on hand; the only parts Im missing are the 20 pin IDC connectors for buttons and piggyback. I’ve been testing it out using a NeoGeo AES controller, and so far everything looks beautiful. I want to confirm the 20 pin piggyback connectors before I call it all good. The layout on the v2 board is SO much cleaner than the first one.
So you’re wanting to convert JVS to USB? Interesting. Trying to get MAME setups in JVS wired cabinets?
The ability to use the UPCB as a JVS controller IS something I’ve been wanting to do, but haven’t been able to find much information on how the JVS protocol works. I’d LOVE, and I mean it truly, the ability to have the UPCB work as JVS controllers to eliminate the need for the expensive Capcom I/O board for Naomi systems. Any information you have on how JVS works would be very appreciated. Is there any reason you/we can’t use the built in UART? Section 20.2.3 of the 4550 datasheet certainly implies rs485 connections are possible. Forgive me if I’m missing something silly but Im not too hip on how rs485 works.