Really, once I free up some time in my hobbying, and get my hands on an extra one of these, I’m SO going to take a huge project box, and make an “everything-to-everything” converter.
Input: FGW Converter and UD-USB (so SNES, PSX, Saturn, USB, DSub-15)
Output: MCC+360+ImpV2 (so virtually everything minus PS4 and XBO), and eventually mod in those two.
Considering the amount of PCBs that’ll be in there, I’m wondering if most USB ports will provide enough juice? Because that’s already at least 5 PCBs in the converter, PLUS whatever else I’ll be plugging into it…
I’m still finishing up some details for this next big order. I’m using the few dozen I have built up to take care of early responders. You are already on my list, so if I don’t hear from all of those guys soon, there may be enough for you, too.
-ud
Ha! That would be funny… but no. I’m not cleaver enough to think of that!
Seriously though, this is such a great idea. I had thought about finding something COTS to do this same thing but realized it wasn’t available and I didnt have the skills/tools at the time to realize it. UD did a fantastic job with these. The Beta version is great right out the box for my needs and most, so this is a big winner. Definitely some utility outside the gaming community for those smart enough to figure it out!
It won’t just be USB that is supplying the power, though. If you are going X360 TE stick to Sega Genesis, the Genesis will be powering your boards from it’s controller port. I don’t know the power limitations on old console controller ports, but I’m guessing you’ll have enough.
It would probably be a good idea to power up each board you want to use individually and measure current draw. Then you have a some reference values for mixing and matching on future projects. If you want to check power draw on a USB port, you could grab a standard USB extension cable, cut the 5V wire, stick your Ampmeter in there and hook up your PS360 or whatever USB device you want to check power on. Also, many USB controllers only request (in their USB descriptors) 100mA power from the console. I don’t know how forgiving consoles are (if they will go ahead and provide 500mA, even though the controller only requested 100mA).
-ud
I could have gone with a stick for that video, but I wanted to show how a modern controller can work with a Retro system using undamned’s USB board.
I did make some changes, I put the UD USB board in a project box with a DB 15 connector attached by a cord. and the SNES Pad PCB is going in another box with a matching DB15 connector.
Using their plastic stand offs and matching screws, its too easy to mound the board inside.
Pro tip: I super glue the standoffs to the bottom of the case.
Can the buttons be remapped on the fly, a la the FGW adapter by toodles
Which buttons are supported on the pad? with only 6, that means two are not able to be used. I saw talk earlier, but didn’t see what buttons weren’t connected. I’d be down for an 8 button version. I don’t even need screw terminals, either.
Yes. On the fly button-remapping is supported, and is not stored in the UD-USB afterwards, so unplugging your controller/stick and plugging in the next one resets the config (useful for tournament play).
From what I understand, it’d be the “default” Jab/Strong/Fierce/Short/Forward/Roundhouse buttons for Street Fighter, so Sq/Tri/R1/X/O/R2. But I believe any of the 8 main buttons (including L1/L2) can be mapped to the 6 functions.
Freedom is correct. All 8 face buttons + Home/PS button can be mapped to any of the 6 output signals.
Next version will have outputs for all 8 face buttons + Home/PS button, but will obviously be a bit larger board, to make room for the extra screw terminals.
-ud
So I just got done putting one of these together and making sure everything worked. Then played about an hour of ST on my Qanba. So amazing! Thank you again!
Hmm. Here’s something that I’m pretty sure hasn’t been asked:
So the majority of people are in favor of having 8+3 buttons available (standard console config), and the next revision of the board will have this. Cool.
The question is: will the 6+2 (standard arcade config) version still be available afterwards? Or are they getting replaced entirely by the 8+3 version?
I mean, I’d want a few 8+3 versions around for multi-console use, but it’s not necessary for arcade/Supergun use, and I’d probably prefer a smaller-sized PCB (like the 6+2 versions) for those purposes…
