Thanks for the reply
I tried a fighting edge, Hori FC4 and a MCZ Pro controller to a MCC. The MCC is recognized.
I will test the rest at home. I want to say i put it in FW update mode but i may have done it wrong.
Appreciate the help, will get back to you when i test tomorrow.
Hi !
I have bought a DB-15 version of your encoder. Really nice piece of hardware !
I use it with a madcatz controller, a SmallCab Supergun (http://www.smallcab.net/supergun-light-p-270.html?osCsid=9g6ioti5iqv3qkvm1s6bdo2426), and a CPS2 board.
To be able to use kicks, I have a kick harness connected to JAMMA pins 25 to 27.
I tried to make it work together, and in fact, it doesn’t. Medium kick becomes coin, and Roundhouse kick isn’t recognized.
I figured out that in fact, the DB-15 pin layout isn’t the same between the decoder and my supergun.
So I’m stuck. Is there any mean to remap the pin layout on the ud-usb decoder, or anything?
Thank you in advance, guys.
Yo!
As much as the Smallcab page claims that the controller ports follow Neo Geo pinout, they don’t. Whoever designed that thing put Button 5 where “Select” on the Neo Geo controller should be. That is part of your Coin problem, because most people (myself, included) use Select for Coin. Smallcab designer instead makes their own Coin signal (“IC”) out of Pin 10 on the controller port, which I and others use for Button 5 or medium kick, as you’ve discovered.
The other problem is you should not be wiring the kick harness to any of the JAMMA signals (except GND, perhaps, but not necessary as GND is already connected via the JAMMA edge). Those are completely separate. It appears there are screw terminals on the supergun which you could wire into, but again, there is no remedy for the Coin problem unless you cut those traces and wire them appropriately. It’s not a hard mod to do, just frustrating to have to do it because of a silly layout. It appears all that is necessary for each controller port is to bridge Pin 9 to Pin 2, and to cut/swap traces for Pin 10 and Pin 3. There are monster pads to solder to, so once the traces are cut, soldering should be a breeze.
Yes, there is a button mapping mode on the Decoders, but Start and Select/Coin are not (re)mappable (those are reserved as “special” buttons for various modes). If you didn’t get a manual from wherever you purchased them, you can find it here, too: http://udgametech.blogspot.com/p/firmware.html
Hope that helps!
-ud
double post 
Ok, I came to the same conclusion that I had to mod the supergun. I’ll try to do that, and in case I screw up, is there a supergun you’re sure that works fine? I’m from France, so maybe the one from arcadeforge ?
Thanks again!
Edit :
I see how to bridge pin 9 to 2 by soldering (I do not have a screw terminal version in fact, soldering all the way for me).
I can also cut traces for pin 10 / 3, but then, I don’t know how I should solder them, from where to where.
(Sorry, I’m not really used to modding anything, what do you mean by monster pads?)
Hey Undamned, welcome back!
Any news about the MAK Strike?
Let us know!
Thanks.
galcha51 you do not need to mod your supergun, I have a smallcab supergun as well and the ud decoders work just fine.Also, is was cool meeting you at evo Brian.
-Ruben
Hi ZEROne, thanks for the response. You didn’t have to do anything in particular? I had to. I’m still missing Mk, but Hk is good, I wired the pin 2 to the ninth, and it works. Maybe you have the deluxe version?
Sorry i didn’t read your post thoroughly i was at work at the time. I have the screw terminal decoder, my apologies.
Oh ok, no problem. I should have taken that one, but I didn’t know about the db-15 layout difference :neutral:
Been a busy week since return from EVO, but I should have a free morning on Saturday. Will hopefully have an answer for you guys then!
15 Pin D-Sub version is definitely the more elegant solution, so don’t feel too bad 
What I mean by “monster” pads is the Neo Geo connectors on the supergun have large pins soldered to the PCB, which makes it easy on you. Also there should be large pins on the bottom of the supergun for that big screw terminal connector you wired your kick harness into. After cutting the appropriate traces, solder a wire from the bottom of B5 on that big screw terminal connector to Pin 10 on the Neo Geo connector (do that for both Player 1 and Player 2 connectors). If you wish to wire up Coin 1 and Coin 2 (it appears there is a button on the supergun for coin, so you may not care about this), solder a wire from JAMMA Pin 16 to Player 1 Neo Geo connector Pin 3 and solder a wire from JAMMA Pin “T” to Player 2 Neo Geo connector Pin 3.
-ud
Thank you, I see what to do now. Button 6 seems to work (just tried to connect the pins, I do not have a soldering iron atm), and I assume it will work well for button 5 too.
Thanks man. Let us know, so we can finally start using the decoders with the MAK Strike (hopefully)!
Any news? Please, let us play with our PS3 sticks 
:).
For those having problems with the MAK supergun try to turn on the supergun on/off switch before connecting the power supply unit
Keep your shirts on, my day job is killing me 
Had some time to play with it over the weekend, but since my brain is so fried from work, I keep forgetting to bring the oscilloscope home. I can at least conclude it’s a power related thing. I am baffled as to the reasoning behind the power layout. +5V is always connected to the controller port (any time you have power connected to the MAK Strike, it is running to the controller port, even if the power switch on the MAK Strike is turned off O_o). When the Power Switch on the MAK Strike is turned on, there is some sort of voltage spike that is killing/damaging the decoders (yes, I sacrificed 2 of them verifying what happens). Once I get my oscilloscope home from work I can see how gross the voltage spike is. If it is minor (which I highly doubt) I will need to modify the Decoders to be more robust. If it is as gross as I think it is, there’s a simple mod that can be done to the MAK Strike to circumvent this problem. I will post up when I get more info. Sorry for the delay, guys. Just trying to stay sane with my day job.
-ud
Nope, I get no led response at all from the UDUSB decoder if I turn on the MAK Strike before connecting the powerplug.
Instead, if I plug the decoder when there is already electricity in the MAK Strike, then the decoder flashes exactly twice a red light and then it dies.
Thanks anyway!
Go man! You are our only hope
At least, I hope I didn’t burn any of my decoders by connecting them to the MAK Strike.
Just wanted to post that we used two superguns setup with undamned’s usb decorders at the Evo 3s side tourney this year and it worked out great! We had one guy who plays only on a stick meant to mimic keyboard (it has keyboard buttons aligned similar to a standard keyboard setup but connected to a 360 or PS3 PCB) and he usually only plays on Fightcade. Since the 3s community mostly plays on arcade he doesn’t have many opportunities to play the game offline. He heard that we were using undamned’s decoders and he told me it was the reason he came to Evo this year. It basically made arcade 3s more accessible to someone who was interested in it but doesn’t usually get to play on it because of the controller he’s used to using.
And he was a cool guy to boot!
We tested input lag vs our arcade cabinet and found that if there was a difference, it was neglible enough to fall within our margin of error. All around I think these decoders are great and I recommend them to any player or community where arcade is still the standard and making that more accessible is a goal.
I’m not sure if it’s been tested lately, but when a few of the socal ST players were “beta” testing the Undamned USB encoders to make sure they worked and had minimal input delay, at it’s worst, it had maybe 1/4 frame of input delay, which is extremely negligible and well worth its’ benefits.
If anyone tells me they can feel 1/4 frame of input delay, I’d call you insane.
Clearly you haven’t seen the stick lag thread lol