Actually the mini PCBs you have do support that feature, just via solder blobs rather than 0.100" jumpers. I’ll send you a labeled photo, as there was no way to fit all that on the silk screen.
In other news, I built up a couple of the latest DB15 PCB revision over the weekend and they work fine, so yay for not breaking anything when making changes I’ll likely have a large batch being assembled later this week and then off to Paradise Arcade Shop.
For those of you who want just the mini decoders (what’s inside the DB15 version) without the connectors & case to use for modding projects, just shoot me a PM and I’ll get a list going.
-ud
Hmmm. Can we simply connect a specific cable to that DB-15 output to have, say, PS1/PS2 support, or is an additional controller PCB (for the target platform) absolutely necessary?
As Darksakul said, you need to connect it to a PCB of the target system.
You have to remember what the UD-USB actually does: it takes a PS3/X360 USB signal, and breaks it down into individual U/D/L/R/Sq/Tri/Cir/X/R1/R2/L1/L2/Sl/St/H signals. Without another PCB to re-encode those individual signals BACK into a console-specific format (PS1/PS2 in your case), you wouldn’t be able to do anything with them.
The only platforms that would be able to use those signals natively are the Neo-Geo and most arcade/Supergun setups.
Would you suggest a case/box suitable for placing the decoder and, say, a PS360+? I’d like to have something reasonably portable and not very prone to accidents… Two boards connected by wires hanging around strike me as vulnerable and difficult to move around safely. o.o
PS: I did see those LEGO cases by UNW4NT3D.
Totally recommend some sort of project box or case for your PCBs. You don’t want to keep bare PCBs in the open in the danger of dirt, liquids, static electricity, etc.
I mentioned to Undamned in another thread, but I agree that a purpose-built DIY enclosure kit built around the UD-USB+PS360 combo would sell a lot of units. You’d basically end up with something that looks like a small laptop power brick with RJ45 on one end and USB on the other. At the end of the day it what a lot of people want I think.
The important caveat to remember is that USB needs 5V to function properly. As discussed in the other thread, unless there is 5V available on that RJ45 jack, you will need some sort of auxiliary power coming in (whether it be 5V from a Playstation 2 USB jack or something else).
EDIT -
For non-RJ45 setups (such as a dedicated PS3/X360 to PS1/2 converter), you have more wires available to you, including the power wire that runs the rumble motors in your gamepads. You can us a small voltage regulator (7805 or similar) to drop that down to a usable 5V.
-ud
@undamned, I finally got around testing your DB-15 decoders and they work great with my Qanba Q4 (as expected, had no trouble at all at EVO). However, I’m also trying to use a Dreamcast stick with a Trio Linker Plus II converter, and a Namco stick with a PIII A01 converter and neither of them work. Any chance for checking/adding support for these two? Thanks!
Wow, I’ve never even heard of those, lol. I’ve got more support to add for some other sticks/controllers before I get to converters, but I’m not opposed to looking into it
I’ve not used that particular wireless controller, but I’ve tested with a wireless Madcatz pad/dongle and that worked fine.
-ud
SWEET. I have 3 of these brand new sealed son, please believe. Not much use for a PS3 nowadays, but good to know I can still wire up some sticks with psx PCBs and use them for something like this product. GOOD TO KNOW.
Ooooooh. Nice.
I have a random PSX–>PS3 adapter that basically sat around useless after an earlier PS3 firmware update killed its compatibility. Didn’t even occur to me to check if it worked on the UD-USBs. Would be definitely interesting to use it in this context.
I also have a GameCube–>USB adapter as well somewhere. I should try that thing out too.
I’ll likely have a large batch being assembled later this week and then off to Paradise Arcade Shop.
