– “I haven’t had a chance to read the rest, but I wanted to at least respond to this. I never asked what would be comfortable! Why does everyone keep thinking that? I’ve literally said it over and over that I am NOT asking that. I can not comprehend why people keep thinking that I’m asking for information that I never wanted. I will respond to the rest later.”
And this is why I don’t write on the forums much anymore…
The over-reaction and misunderstandings get to you after a while.
Things go in circles… I got tired of that aspect of SRK which is why I took a self-imposed break. I see that hasn’t changed!
You really didn’t get the gist of what I was saying? In none of the posts I’ve glanced at is anyone telling you to buy something you. You’re the only one who can make up your own mind about what works for you!
And BTW, it IS all about your comfort zone. It’s not the same for everybody or there wouldn’t be at least a dozen major joystick designs out there.
There are some major joystick designs that happen to appeal to more people and there are other designs that fewer people care for.
I personally DON’T like the LS-58… It’s ironic that the thing half of us say is that the LS-58 stock spring is TOO soft. The spring is the major thing that distinguishes the LS-58 from the LS-56 otherwise it’s basically the same joystick! With the equipped MS Mounting Plate that comes from most places that stock it, it STILL kind of sits low in joysticks. Didn’t care for the general feel of it but that’s me!
Seimitsu has a bad habit of spinning off existing joystick designs and coming up with these ‘improvements’ that amount to very little. With the LS-58, they took the basic LS-56 design, revamped the base a bit, introduced new mounting plates because the existing LS-56 MP’s won’t screw into the LS-58 base properly, and confused a lot of the existing customer base with all these choices of MP’s and the business of a softer spring. It really didn’t improve anything over the LS-56, IMHO.
So you use the Kowal actuator? The 1mm? What other mods did you to do your JLF? Spring?
EDIT: I’m actually really curious what everyone here uses in terms of stick / mods. Anyone familiar with the set up of any pros? I ask, not because I need to know what will work for me (as I’ve stated many times :p), but because I’m just really just curious!
A stick with fast engage (which is what the JLF is with the Kowal) is going to require more precision to avoid accidental jumps, just keep practicing and you’ll get the hang of it (also keep in mind that FADC is an asinine cancel mechanic that is really more difficult than it needs to be). Given your stated desire to be able to to perform with minimal movements, a fast engage is definitely what you need. Whatever spring tension you want is fine with the Kowal, I use it with stock JLF springs.
On the Crown, it sounds like you would be better off dremeling the case to open it up a bit. You can replace the microswitches that are broken very easily, don’t worry that your stick is junk now. That said, it doesn’t sound like the Crown is what you’re looking for.
PAS took a week to ship my order out the time I tried them.
I would venture that most pros are using a stock JLF. The thing that makes the pros so good is an obscene amount of time practicing and competing with other really good players who also practice a ton.
Seconded. There are still some pros that still sport old school MAS sicks with Happs parts, so it is definitely the practice and skill that comes with that.
Yea I don’t think the crown is going to be anything close to what I want. I wanted to at least put it in the case and try it out since I have it, but I should have just sold it. I’ll replace the switches and sell it when I can.
The hayubasa feels like it goes further than the JLF. It pushes out all the way further than the JLF does. What is that called?
I tried putting my octo gate on my JLF with the kowal into the TE that I had just spent hours trying to shove the crown into. Well when I tried to play with the JLF last night the thing wouldn’t work. I couldn’t go top right without hitting it exactly on the for and even then it was difficult and inconsistent. I hope I didn’t break something inside the TE. I’ll put the JLF in my TE - S and see if it works.
The stick travel distance is called throw. Octagonal gates reduce the throw distance available for diagonals, but your oversized actuator should make them easily reachable regardless.I use the kowal with an octagonal gate regularly without problems. Also, as already mentioned, the kowal itself shortens throw.
It sounds like you’re just over analyzing everything with the input display on. Try turning it off and just play the game, leave it off unless you’re having trouble with a specific move.
How heavy is the hayubasa spring? I just feel like its impossible not to hit the gate on it. Anyone have experience with the hayubasa who likes it a lot? I may want a tad heavier spring on it. Maybe I’ll try the JLF spring.
Well that what we are talking about when we suggest get something comfortable.
What stick works the best is one that you feel you can get used too and feel comfortable with.
If the tool or in our case controller do not fit comfortably for you, you will never fully utilize the controller to it’s full potential.
Various joysticks, buttons and even case design all factor in. Now some people can utilize any arcade stick and any joystick and some have a very particular preference.
Like for example I prefer the JLW and Seimitsu Buttons, Diago likes any stick as long as its full Sanwa, Stock JLF and your typical Sanwa OBSF 30mm Pushbuttons
Dark, do you play with your full arm? wrist? full hand? or just fingers? What grip do you use? Just curious is all. I like just playing with my hand / fingers, but I’m still going back and forth on different grips. Normally I play with the shaft between my middle and ring finger with my thumb on top of and moving the ball, but sometimes I try putting the shaft between my index and middle finger with my thumb on the side of the ball. The latter works well when facing right, and the former works when facing left. Switching around the shaft between my fingers is too large a motion to do seamlessly when switching direction, so its not something I really do. With both grips, or any that I’ve figured out how to use, its much easier to dash to the right than left.
Also, someone mentioned paradise arcade is developing something for the community. What is it?
I’m still trying the hayubasa too. I like it too - just trying to get more used to it. What I don’t like is the way it feels when it hits the sides. I just feel like it hits the gate so easily. I almost wish the gate was bigger or, a different material maybe? It just feels uncomfortable when its hit. I love how easily the stick moves, just don’t like how it hits the gate. If the hayubasa and jlf have the same spring then they’re both .9, right? Maybe trying a 1.5 may help more? I asked this already but I dont think its been answered: how heavy is the LS - 55 spring I have? Also, is there a different shaft cover I can get? I don’t see any different versions on the websites. Whats really odd is that when I look at the cover that came with the dust covers that I ordered its larger than the one that was on my TE. This thing just moves around a ton on my hayubasa and its aggravating - makes it harder to grip.
The only thing I was really looking forward to with the crown was seeing how well it double tapped (for dash / FDAC). I read that the korean sticks are really great at that. The hayubasa and JLF just feel odd when dashing; counter intuitive almost.
I usually use the Eagle Claw or the Death Grip, I grip every joystick as if I was using a bat top. The wine glass hold makes my arm hurt after a while.
I also avoid wrist pain with the Death grip (arthritis runs in both sides of my family).
I use my whole arm for the joystick and I try to lock my wrist into place.
Although the LS-58 and Hayabusa is missing from the chart, here are the various measurements for each stick.
The hayabusa has a similar spring to the JLF but the engage, throw and Deadzones are diffrent.
The LS-58 is a LS-56 with a weaker spring, good luck finding the LS-33.
I can’t speak on Korean parts as I never used them.
I was doing some more research and I’m actually wanting to try an LS - 32 spring in the Hayubasa. Its just too loose as is, but a tiny bit more resistance may be really perfect for me. I’ve got a 1.5lb coming too that I can try.
I’m also confused. Is LS 33 weaker or stronger than 32?
The LS-33 is probably the weaker spring… Don’t really know.
They don’t generally list spring tensions in most shops’ online catalogs.
The LS-32 spring is definitely higher tension than the JLF or Hayabusa springs but it’s not a huge difference.
Paradise Arcade Shop is one of the few vendors that has custom springs in stock and they DO listen the tensions in pounds for the JLF and LS-56 series joysticks.
Standard JLF spring is like around 1 lbs and it goes up from there… they also have custom springs for the LS-56/-58/60 series joysticks. I bought one of those in an (unsuccessful) attempt to make the LS-58 more comfortable for me to use.
The LS-32 is a more common joystick. The LS-33 is a lot less popular; you buy the LS-33 only if nothing else fits into a stick case… (IF you can’t fit a JLF let alone an LS-32 into a stick case, I don’t think it’s worth buying the joystick case… That pretty much covers well over half the joysticks made for the home market before the HRAP debuted in 2004.) The LS-33 is just not a popular joystick model and the few people I’ve run into here who have used an LS-33 don’t have kind things to say about it. Sounds like Seimitsu took some weird design tactics with the LS-33 that just didn’t really pan out.
In general, people generally mix JLF and/or LS-32 spring’s in different combinations depending on what springs a stick can accept. Obviously, smaller size springs like the LS-56/-58 variety don’t necessarily fit every kind of joystick model on market. The diameter on LS-56 shaft spec parts is too narrow to fit the LS-32 which has the widest diameter shaft of any in-production digital Japanese joystick I’m aware of. (Most Japanese joysticks have shaft diameters similar to the JLF or narrower like the LS-40 and LS-56.) The LS-32 spring is secure on the Hayabusa I have. There’s no way it will pop off unless I remove the E-ring.
I use an LS-32 spring wrapped around the Hayabusa spring which is basically a JLF-clone spring. Didn’t really notice a huge increase in tension but it was definitely a bit more comfortable than stock tension. I really, really don’t like altering the handling characteristics on joysticks all that much. It’s very easy to over-ratch spring tension on Japanese joysticks; in those cases, you end up with a joystick that only a weightlifter is comfortable with and it can ruin the overall handling and snapback of the joystick lever. I went through a JLF mod phase a few years back and realized after a few months that I was better off looking at alternate joysticks…
The JLF and LS-32 have near-identical throws. The STOCK Hayabusa has slighter greater throw than BOTH the LS-32 and JLF. I definitely felt the difference on the Hayabusa coming from the LS-32 after mainlining the LS-32 for close to four years. I got used to the difference because the Hayabusa was otherwise very comfortable to me. I never reached that same level of comfort with the JLF, LS-40, OR LS-58…
What ruined JLF for me – and many other people – is the restrictor gate design. Doesn’t matter whether I use the default square gate or the octo-gate. The actuator rubs hard against the gate and the gate itself feels ‘too thick’ is the best way I can describe it. That interaction got in the way too often for me – especially on faster-paced games and when using charged move characters like Chun-Li or Guile.
The LS-32 and Hayabusa were very different. They were comfortable to me from the get-go. Many people are harping about the JLF square gate and the square gate designs on everything other than the JLF were perfectly fine.
If the JLF had a better gate design, it might actually hit the corners and handle charged moves better for more people.
I think the LS-32 spring may work really well for me on the hayubasa. I feel like its just so light and hits the sides too easily. I was told the JLF spring is .9 and the LS-32 is something like 1.3. That, or 1.5, may be exactly what I need.
@Cagan Wait for your PA order to arrive. It should be there soon, unless they’re out of stock on something. Then use the JLF springs. It’s better because the springs are shorter so you get better expansion and compression on them.
@GeorgeC yo, I’ve only measured a bunch of gates and actuators recently. it’s not significant.
