Third party PS4 padhack options

Vicko · August 17, 2015, 4:16am

Ground and one of the white wires from your USB. Refer to the PDF http://www.godlikecontrols.com/imp2.pdf
Yes

Vicko · August 17, 2015, 4:17am

I personally leave the switch on the left, solder my L buttons to the LA LB spots, and solder R buttons on the small points on the back

twozerotwo · August 17, 2015, 5:30am

Hey guys, I decided to buy a Tek-Case from Art and do everything myself for the first time. Just a couple questions.

-I’m going with a Neutrik port to have a removable USB cable but I’m just not sure how I’m going to connect the USB cable to the PCB. I’m assuming I would get the USB cable off the PCB(completely taking off the white adapter piece?), grab a new USB cable, cut that one to length, strip the wires a hair, solder the wires to the PCB and connect the other end to the inside port of the Neutrik?

-When it comes to the solder, anything specific I should grab? Anything to avoid?

I guess that’s it for now. I ordered the Hori pad already but I’m just slowly gonna order things until I have everything ready. Thanks.

Vicko · August 17, 2015, 5:39am

What white piece?
1 Flip your neutrik so the A side is on the inside
2 Trim your USB cable from the A side down to a few inches, long enough to go from the neutrik to the pcb
3 Strip your USB cable so you can resolder back to the pcb (save some of the shielding so you will have less noise/static buildup)
4 Plug a new USB cable from your B outside to your console/PC
5 Enjoy

twozerotwo · August 17, 2015, 5:52am

Should’ve clarified it’s the white pin connector piece attached to the USB wires on the PCB. The ones that are seen here.

I’m assuming the wires are attached to the white pin connector and the whole thing comes off the PCB?

Vicko · August 17, 2015, 5:59am

Oh, yeah. Just cut them from that side and resolder to the front
Don’t remember it the front is labeled so just leave a smidge of colored wire on so you know which wire goes where

twozerotwo · August 17, 2015, 6:48am

Oh, okay. So the whole thing pops off and just keep track of which color goes where?

Vicko · August 17, 2015, 6:53am

no you have to cut it off, so just snip the wires

twozerotwo · August 17, 2015, 7:17am

Jesus Christ, I’m an idiot. Looking at the PCB again, I just realized what you meant by solder to the front. So just chop that off on the back side and solder the points on the front?

thebubbleman · August 17, 2015, 9:21am

Sorry, I am still a little confused with #1. For slot ‘D’, the pdf refers to “PS3 controller’s white USB wire”, but the ps3 controller’s white usb wire was already wired to slot D on the old imp, and the usb white wire on fc4 has already wired up to new imp slot ‘XD-’. The same question for slot ‘G’, I am uncertain where to get those sources from. Could you please clarify a little more? Thanks alot for helping!

Vicko · August 17, 2015, 9:52am

Ignore Xbox/PS3 and use pcb1/2
G is ground, same as a

thebubbleman · August 17, 2015, 5:23pm

So since pcb1 is now comprised of both ps3+360 pcbs, does that mean I can use the white usb wire from either pcbs? Thanks.

Vicko · August 17, 2015, 7:02pm

You are using what, Cerberus or chimp or something? Use the USB out from whatever combo that is for pcb 1, and use the green and white wires from fc4 as pcb2

thebubbleman · August 17, 2015, 8:08pm

Sorry to bother you, I suppose my confusion lies in which usb out to use for pcb1 since it is no longer a single entity now.

My current setup is the following…

Original ps3 te, dual modded using solely impv2 and madcatz 360 pad. And now I would like to add a new impv2 with ps4 pcb.

So, if I am not mistaken, the original dual mod (ps3+360+impv2) is now considering as pcb1, correct?

That’s where I am puzzled, since it has both ps3 and 360 pcbs, which one do I grab the usb out from to connect to the new impv2 as pcb1?

Thanks again, I hope I described it properly.

Vicko · August 17, 2015, 8:24pm

Yes

Or use a dpdt switch so you’re not confused on where you’re at between imps

Also if you use 2 imps, don’t use the same button for switching. Doesn’t need to be guide, can be anything.

thebubbleman · August 19, 2015, 10:23am

It’s working great now, thanks for the tip for not using the same switch button

thebubbleman · August 22, 2015, 8:23am

Sorry, this should be my last inquiry. So far everything is working great, except in some occasion, the turbo button would activate on its own and I do not have the turbo wired to anything.

It seems to be the identical issue you had years ago Weird issue, possibly static related

I checked all my wirings/connections, they are fine and glued down tight and I cannot pin down on what the potential cause is.

I am wondering if you ever resolved the issue and could give me some insight to this. Also, this was not an issue during the dualmod, it just started occurring after adding a second impv2 for ps4.

Thanks.

Vicko · August 22, 2015, 10:16am

Solder a line to ground and tie the other end onto a chassis screw, or solder directly to metal on the chassis.
Also you could restrip your USB cable and solder some of the shield lining to GND to help reduce noise.

thebubbleman · August 24, 2015, 1:44am

Hmm, I wired a line from gnd to the bottom plate with a ring terminal but the issue is still occurring. I checked it with a multimeter and it was indeed grounded.

I am kinda lost here now, is there anyway to complete disable the turbo functionality? This seems to only happen when I am on ps4 ctrl, neither ps3/360 displays this problem.

Gummo · August 24, 2015, 3:01am

Ran into a simular issue. Added xb1/360 mkx fightpad to a ps3 te (scv model). Turbo would sometimes appear on the xb1/360 side. I ended up just replacing the ps3 te pcb with a cerberus.

In your case I would do the same since the ps4 pcbs also have ps3 support. Just use the ps3 te pcb for its home button and ls,dp,rs switch (wired up as the ps4/3 switch). Then just use one imp to switch between the ps4 and 360 pcbs.