If anyone is interested they have really cool wood store in S.E. Michigan that will teach you how to do wood working. They also sell any tool or piece of equipment you would ever want not to mention a really hefty supply of exotic and domestic woods. They are a national chain called Wood Craft. I went there today and the place was freaking amazing. I’m already signed up for a basic wood working class and will continue to do more when I get my feet wet.
I use System Three 5 min. epoxy. The nice thing like I said is that you can add a drop of Transtint to give it some color. I does slow down the cure but as long as it is just a drop it doesn’t weaken the epoxy if given 24 hours to fully cure.
Transtints are what I used on my curly maple cases a few months ago.
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/JB/PICT0041.jpg
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Blank%20Cases/CMapleDyed/100_3403.jpg
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Blank%20Cases/CMapleDyed/100_3399.jpg
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Blank%20Cases/CMapleDyed/100_3393.jpg
Michael
a quick question for all you routers; do you fully assemble your frame before you rout the edges or do you do some of it before you assemble it?
Is anyone using a router without a router table and if so have you got any top tips for doing the edges of the frame?
i assemble the frame before i route. i use a router table.
I’ve got some wood working information resources if anyone is interested feel free to PM me for the info.
Subjects include but not limited to:
- Advanced routing
- Joining wood and Joints
- Wood working general info
- Other wood working projects
- Finishing
There is a lot more than this I just don’t have the full list in front of me right now.
I would like to ask Soulji and Michael a question since you guys sell sticks and would probably get lot of feedback from customers.
About wood joining for controller boxes, what methods and procedures do you use? I know Michael has mentioned on butt joints use the “glue and screw and cover the screw hole method.”
However is this how you guys build controllers for customers?
I’m new to woodworking and would like to know what would be a optimal way “holding” together a controller box without a lot of extra work. I know slagcoin.com mentioned woodglue and dowels but dowels are too hard for me.
Basically thinking, if it is good enough for many customers, its good enough for me.
Thanks for lots of the useful information posted already!:wonder:
Butt joints are probably the easiest joint. Mitre joints (each piece of wood is cut 45 degrees on the end) seem to be the most popular for sticks because they look cleaner than butt joints. In mitre joints no end grain is shown (the cut edge of the wood). These are quite a bit more difficult to build though.
Mitre joint shown in the last pictures here:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=6842378&postcount=79
or in these pictures: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=6874466&postcount=144
As you can tell, there is no end grain visible.
Or there are the routed butt joints (Which are pretty nice too):
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=6856534&postcount=13338
Glued miter joints are stronger then glued butt joints. I don’t use any special joinery unless the wood needs it. Some woods are oily and don’t allow the glue to work properly. That is when I add screws and plugs or dowels. Otherwise it is just plan ol’ Tightbond II wood glue. Dovetails are also another good strong joint. The more complex the joint of course the more difficult it is to create.
Michael
thanks Michael. Really appreciate you taking the time to help me and the rest of the community. I saw your new cases in your other forum and your cases look awesome. I wish one day I can make boxes like you do.
Now for my next noob question. What is the method that stick builders use when needing to drill hole on the plexiglass and the control panel?
I tried to sandwich the control panel and the plexiglass together and use a drill press to make holes that will line up between the CP and the plexiglass. It seems that the drill press wants to blow up on me and that didn’t go quite well. 
Also another question on the Control Panel. For the control panels without screws on the plexiglass on top, what’s holding the plexiglass onto the control panel? I hope it’s not just the six/eight push buttons that’s holding it. lol
Please be patient with my noob questions and my ability to search the forum.
Thanks in advance.
I put but the MDF and plexiglas in the frame and use a hand drill to drill my pilot holes. Then drill the two pieces separately on the drill press.
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/MakingSticks/100_3195.jpg
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/MakingSticks/100_3198.jpg
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/MakingSticks/100_3203.jpg
You got it. The buttons I use are the screw in type. As long as the plexiglas is not warped you don’t need anything else.
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Stephenp1983/100_3211.jpg
Michael
Primer stuff is taking longer than I though, here is the finishing body filler though:
Finishing Body Filler
What you need:
- Finishing body filler
- Hardener
- Sanding block
- 80 grit and 180 grit sandpaper
- Onion pad (disposable sheets for mixing body filler, like $15 for 100) or plastic mixing pad
- The spatula thing (plastic mixer / squeegee / applicator) or (preferred) a single razor blade (the type that you buy in packs of 100)
- Can of guide coat (a thin coat of powdery black paint that allows you to see spots that are missing sanding)
Notes before beginning
- This is only to fill in pinholes in the original body filler
- Do not mix a lot, because you should not be using a lot
- Do not mix it on cardboard
- Do not get it wet, even when it is dry
- Onion pad > plastic mixing board, no clean up because you can just throw the sheet of paper in the garbage when it is dry
- Razor blade > plastic applicator because it allows us to apply a much smaller amount and that’s what we want
Preparation
- Clean the original body filler, wipe it down with a dry cloth and/or blow it with compressed air
- No pre-sanding needed because this should be filling a pinhole in body filler that has been sanded with 180 grit
Application
- Apply as little as possible and only to the spot where there is a pinhole
- Squeeze it with pressure when applying it so it fills the pinhole but all of the finishing body filler that ends up on the top surface comes out thinner
- Apply the finishing body filler to all the pinholes before sanding so that you only have to sand once
Mixing (same as the original body filler)
- Mix the ratios properly, you might want it to dry faster but putting too much hardener will make it absorb some of the pigments in your paint and the paint will not be the same colour throughout. The amount you want to use is one line across your body filler. Say this is your body filler: ( ) then your hardener will be the dash in the middle: (-). Just put one line from one side to the other, less is better in this case so if you feel like you didn’t put enough, then don’t go back and put more
- The actual mixing technique is shown in a lot of videos, this is an excellent video (just don’t use this much hardener) : http://www.expertvillage.com/video/4...mix-filler.htm You have to wipe/squeeze the body filler until there are no more hardener streaks left (there must be no streaks left otherwise some sections will harden differently making them sand differently).
Sanding
- 80 grit sandpaper and a solid sanding block only to cut the edges of finishing body filler from the applicator. You only want to sand it enough to get rid of any edges/lines that are visible. Also, the finishing body filler that came out of the sides of the applicator when you were squeezing it.
- The motion you do when sanding shoud be short strokes diagonally across the body filler and try alternating to get an X pattern.
- Try to get rid of the edges but leave a bit of finishing body filler, you need some material left over to sand with 180 grit
- Sand with 180 grit sandpaper to get rid of the 80 grit sanding marks
BAHAHHAHAHAHA! Another great detailed post from Michael. :tup::tup::tup:
Let me go at it again and try to build my CP with plexi.
Hopefully nothing flies at me from the drill press.
I’m trying to build a 2 player CP at 32" wide. Will post up some PICs if I am successful. LoL:lol:
Michael, I appreciate if you can guide me how to cut/route the joystick hole on mdf nicely. I tried jigsaw and router with drill bits but ended with horrible square look. This is the part Im having trouble with the most. Slagcoin website helped the most but the guide on how to drill the joystick part is just dont exist. I could missed it somewhere but I appreciate the help from anyone here.Thanks in advance
Zebra, I believe he uses a template.
Then he uses a router bit called a pattern flush trim router bit.
This allows him to follow the template easily.
satek, you are half right. I do use a template but use straight bit with a collar on the router to follow the template. The collar mounts into a special base plate that is attached to the router. You can get a universal base plate at most home centers. I use 1/2" MDF and route just over 1/4" deep from both sides.
I start by drilling a hole in the center of the joystick spot. The allows the bit to get started. I clamp the MDF panel and template to my workbench and follow the template.
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/MakingSticks/100_3201.jpg
Next I flip the MDF over and place my template for the bottom into position and do the same as the top.
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/MakingSticks/100_3202.jpg
Here I am in action. As you can see I am using hearing protection, eye protection and dust collection.
Here is a link to a good tutorial on how to make your template.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=51235.0
Michael
urmmmm… Michael looks too professional
I’m only a I.T. worker so my hands are soft as a teddy bear doll. :razzy:
lol
Well I finished the stick I posted earlier in this thread, minus finding some good artwork. I am 100% satisfied with the result, considering this was my first time building a stick and staining anything.
However, I did run into a problem while staining. The ends of the wood, where the grain was exposed turned black after my first coat of stain.
Does anyone have some tips to avoid this?
I believe the solution would be to use some pre-stain conditioner of some sort. However, I heard you only need pre-stain for specific types of wood. In addition, if using pre-stain is the solution to this problem, does it affect the tone of the stain or how dark the stain can get.
Here are some pictures of what Im referring to
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d174/wado_dragon/DSCF0828.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d174/wado_dragon/DSCF0840.jpg
I am a computer programmer by day, I know about soft hands.
TBH it takes a soft touch to do the fine detail work so you’re half way there.:wgrin:
Nice job on the case. End grain is always a problem when it comes to stain or dye. I answered a PM about this very question earlier today. Here was my response.
That is the nature of wood. The end grain is like open straws so it soaks up more of the stain. This makes no difference on the type of stain used. This podcast should give you some tips to help in the future.
http://mattsbasementworkshop.com/356…-with-hendrik/
TTFN
Michael
hey milke, your my new custom God:) Thanks for the helpful guides and the useful link
Hey all…getting antsy waiting for my parts to arrive, but on the other hand, have been busy setting up and re-jigging for my new table saw (RIDGID ts3660). LOVE this saw :D.
Current ww-specific tools:
-
aforementioned table saw
-
Bosch 3.25h plunge router, fixed base mounted into a cabinet I built
-
Delta compound miter saw
-
Porter-Cable var-speed random orbital disc sander
-
Ryobi impact driver/drill, one cheapo hand-drill
-
Chisels
-
and of course, no shop can do without a Dremel:)
Turfed my old saw, but kept the motor…it will likely end up as the power plant for a sanding/grinding/sharpening station.
Just finished building a nice crosscut sled…based on one I saw on the web (google “super sled”)… added a tranverse slot toward the top of the sled to make more acute angles than the original design would allow on smaller stock. Now I can get back to the business of building a case while I go bald waiting for my parts…lol!
BTW, Kaytrim…that curly maple case is sweet :D.