Hmmm, maybe it was a Delta. $899? It was probably a Delta I don’t know why I thought General. I saw the size, freaked out in joy, then I saw the price and turned towards the Ridgid lol.
Yep assemble the frame of the box then run it through the router.
Michael
I’m still looking for a good picture that will fit a panel at 30.75inches wide. Total is approx 32 inches including the MDF side boards. Since I’m not good at mashing up pics or illustration, I’m trying to pick out a nice picture that will fit my board without much alteration.
I’m not sure who said “ecks is secks” but some other l337 member said it differently. Now don’t laugh too hard cause maybe you’ll loose your belly button.
The other member said, " 3cks is teH s3cks 
."
:bgrin:
Just some pics from today’s pine-age :razzy:
Whatever amount of time you thought it took for me to setup the clamps, it took me twice as long :tdown:
I tried rounding some edges with my files. The left side is rounded between the clamps whereas the right side is straight edged.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/crazedmodder/Projects/Tools/Woodworking/th_P6207789.jpg
The top of this piece of wood is rounded (the side not facing the camera):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/crazedmodder/Projects/Tools/Woodworking/th_P6207794.jpg
These are my rounded corners:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/crazedmodder/Projects/Tools/Woodworking/th_P6207793.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/crazedmodder/Projects/Tools/Woodworking/th_P6207796.jpg
Came out decent, the clamp rattling was annoying while doing it though … I need to clean up with some steel wool or sandpaper still. The second file is still a bit too rough.
Planing/Slanting/Conturing Joy Stick Case
Hey everyone; my apologies if someone has already posted the answer to this question but its really on my brain.
First off Im new to the wood working scene, so here is my shop: Ryobi Router, Ryobi Circular saw, Ryobi Jigsaw, craftsman and Ryobi Drills.
My method of making the Joy Stick is by placing 3 pieces of MDF stacked up on top of each other. I then glue the 3 pieces of MDF together and then flush trim them using a router to make all the edges precise/even.
How does one craft a slant into the Joystick box/case like so:
http://www.joystickvault.com/showphoto.php?photo=2038&si=slant
I have read what Slagcoin wrote on this subject:
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/box.html
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/example3.html - Bumblebee Joy Stick section
In addition I have also researched router planning jigs:
http://woodzone.com/tips/planerjig.htm
However I am still not clear as to what I have to do, exactly. Any help will be appreciated, thanks.
Is the reason you are using those picture frame clamps because you wanted the boards glued together in that 4 way pattern?
Ministry, the first thing you are going to need is a table saw.
If you want to make angled boxes like that, you have to use a miter gauge and a table saw. You should probably make a jig too. I personally like flat boxes myself.
Also, im really not too sure what you are talking about when you say you are making sticks by binding 3 slabs of mdf, but it doesn’t sound like a good idea. For starters, mdf is ugly, and it doesnt glue well.
Go to a store like woodcraft, and pick up some good hardwood, whatever you like.
Rip the boards on a table saw to 2.2 inches or so, depending on what height you like your boxes. Cut them into your desired lengths to glue, I use 11in and 9in boards, which makes the top panel come out around 11x7.5
Then get some nice clamps, I like irwin quickgrips myself. Glue, and clamp.
Then cut your mdf, glue your blocks, route the edges with a table router and drill your template.
The rest is just sanding and finishing. Hope this helps you understand a little better.
Thanks
Thanks for the quick reply and yes now I do understand a little more of what I have to do to cut such angles. To answer your question Im trying to use the method that paik shared in his thread:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=111273&highlight=hacking
I didn’t think about the fact that I could have used normal clamps. My original intention was not to glue the boards that way and do it the other way instead, somehow it ended up like this. It is probably better this way anyways, I always have problems setting stuff up and last time I couldn’t get it to fit just right and clamp it at the same time.
I might as well get used to setting up these painful corner clamps anyways, this is my portable box to practice some woodworking on so that when I make my nice box for home (which will be too big for my normal clamps [@12" deep and 16" wide] and be miter joints) hopefully I will know what I’m doing.
Chalk this setup being due to me being a scrub :lol:
Man all this hard work and acquiring all the tools. I just found a friend that has a CNC machine in his garage and built this. Did everything with 1/4" Bit. Good thread, got a lot of the milling ideas from here.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/const10ly/th_ENV3Milling.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/const10ly/th_ENV3MillingCut.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/const10ly/th_ENV3UnderTopBoard.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/const10ly/th_ENV3AngleComplete.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/const10ly/th_ENV3AngleComplete2.jpg
Love the art, and like the ectched corners.
Not lot of us, or at least I can’t find friends who has a CNC machine in their garage or can afford a CNC for few joysticks.
Curious to ask you this, seems like you are trying to clone MAD CATZ TE as close as possible. Is your joystick case supposed to mimic the sf4 layout precisely? :razz:
I’m glad to see I’m not the only one who likes his panels a little bigger:). Mine is finally glued up, just prepping it this morning/afternoon. Will post up if I can find my daughter’s camera:D. I seem to be missing a belly button, too…lol.
Ministry… my build is partially similar to paik’s. The main difference being that I use 3 sections. The first is 2 mdf’s with the space routed/cut out first, then secured face-to-face. The top and bottom are separate boards and are secured to the resulting frame afterwards.
I’m a newcomer to stick-building, but I have worked with mdf a fair bit, and as 3cks mentioned, mdf tends to de-laminate unless you have some other method of securing the pieces… dowels are ideal for this.
hth
Irwin Quick Grips… I love those things…
Yeah I love the art also. Got it from a member on SRK. CNC was a lucky find, it was a DIY project that he did as well. It is suppose to come close to the TE but slightly different at the side.
Hrmmm… I’m just asking because its not just different at the sides but the layout is not SF4 vewlix taito layout. The style resembles it but as but as for the precise distance, its off. For example, the joystick is too far from the buttons. The buttons have way more space among them - if you had precise SF4 layout, the sanwa nuts should touch each other and one of the nut shouldn’t fit at the end where the bottom index finger button should be.
Just a thought :wasted:
I tried the clamps on butt joints today just to see what you are talking about. Now I know what troubles the mitre clamps give you on butt joints -slight gaps!
I clamped a 6" x 4" rectangle box to test out what Michael was saying about routing the corners after assembling the box.
I need to see if I can make some nice edges like michael and 3cks and see what my options are for building my next single player stick. :lol:
Come on VMA, we’re all doing a drum roll and waiting on the pics. LoL
For me, I just drilled screws to secure the controller box. I saw some other thread, and one member said that the glue and clamp method can be stronger than just using screws. Now we know why michael has been comfortable using glue on miter joints.
Anyone just use glue for butt joints? Slagcoin says glue on buttjoint is weak but what is everyone’s experience with butt joints?
I agree that glue on a butt joint is weak. I would use screws and glue on a butt joint.
Michael
Michael I got ugly screws going in at an angle for my controller box. For tight fits, would you recommend right angle drill or just a right angle drill bit? 
Hey Michael,
Took some time over the weekend to read more about bench planes and it seems that a few people suggested that if you were to only own one plane it should be a No 5. as it could be set up to smooth & straighten rough cuts, and also be setup to shave and even cross-grain miters.
They said it wouldn’t be perfect for the miters, but atleast do-able.
I really can’t afford to buy more than one plane right now, and I was hoping that maybe this might be my “catch-all” solution 
Edit: I also didn’t know where I would be able to grab a nice No 5… I have the WoodRiver link you gave me and that one looks pretty sweet, just was curious about a Stanley as well but couldn’t find a “non-retro” one for sale