I want to do the same thing, but I have a question about how to convert the joystick to the button inputs… solder? rewire? card? thanks.
You would take the wires and split the ground between the 4 buttons and then use each of the signal wires on each directional button. People use crimp on quick connects on the wires for easy button install/removal.
I made this last night, if I like it I’m going to buff off the pelican paint job and see about a art solution if something will take to the top. The PCB is a old PS2 for PC USB pad I had laying around.
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/987/sdc10789a.jpg
My earlier attempt didn’t come out well, It would of require cutting my TE case interior (possibly not if I had done a little cleaner job on the wires but it’s tight).
:wow:
I’ve posted this in the new arcade stick thread, but I figured I’d throw it in here too.
I dub thee: Tupperstickless
The amalgamation of a $3.50 “notebook case” from the back-to-school aisle at walmart, a MC fightpad pcb, and a bunch of spare/scrap buttons.
I’ve been interested to try the stickless style, but not enough to get in line to spend $150+ and while I have a few sticks now and have modded the crap out of a couple, I haven’t built my first wood case yet and I’m not blowing that load on a stickless (unless this one makes me an unstoppable killing machine).
I’m still getting used to it, but it’s surprising how quickly it’s starting to become natural. Some things seem more natural or easy to pull off, like coming off down to block an air attack. It’s one of those fundamental things that you have to do automatically, but I’ve always had trouble with it. On the stickless, I just do it without thinking. Air FBs seem ridiculously fast on this, too. HCF is tricky for some reason, but getting better.
I like the fact that, when just fitting in a pcb and buttons, you can easily use a case that’s less than 2 inches thick.
I’ma keep practicing and maybe I’ll be making/finding something more substantial for this soon. I’d like to try using 24mm for the attack buttons (like the Hitbox proper), but I don’t have many laying around.
This is my TE with a clear hitbox style plexi from Bencao74 over at arcadeforge.de. I haven’t bolted it down yet, not finished modding it. It fits quite nicely even with the TE Kitty I installed from Toodles. Thanks guys!
Why you gotta go making the tupperstickless feel inferior? That’s not nice. <<<JOKE [text does not convey sarcasm]
Really, though, that’s cool as hell. How stiff is the plexi? Are you planning on doing art? (not that it’s needed-that looks cool)
Mr. Tupper up there has turned out to be way too flexy. Makes the Sanwa buttons feel like Hori and the hori ones on the right feel like, well, they were about as bad as actual microswitch buttons get these days when in a regular case, so with the flex of the top, trying to push with my pinky: really bad. I’m going to be switching out to something more substantial soon. I started trying supports inside around the buttons, but it’s more trouble than it’s worth. Mr. Tupper fullfilled his role as a proof of concept, though. I’m thinking one of those cheap aluminum poker chip cases will work well for a stickless. Always looked to flimsy for a stick to me, but w/o the joystick, it should be perfect. I may just try using a solid piece of nice wood and using a drill press to hollow it out. These things can be so shallow and don’t require the fine routing or other structure for proper stick height, so the options are pretty wide open. I’m looking forward to seeing the creativity this community always brings to a new idea like this.
If i have a TE and get hold of a stickless plexi top and buttons that fit it, how hard is it to actually mod the chipsets and such to make it work without a joystick? do i need to purchase any extra wires or pcb’s?
Easiest way for a te is to cut the wire harness at the base of the jlf and use the corrisponding wires to the new directional buttons…and daisy chain the ground wire…the wire harness is easy enough to buy at lizardlick.com if you want to go back to sick…no need to mess with the pcb…the direction of each wire is printed on the pcb…
Thats great thanks. should have mentioned as well i fully support the hitbox guys and will purchase one from them (when the xbox version is avalible) i mearly want one soon ish for personal use to see if i like it before i buy one 
and thats great so i can still make it usable with a stick if i want to change it back? thanks again for the quick and helpful reply
what would it take for the TE not to block both directions? :oops:
Just don’t do it.
It’s something you’d have to consciously be doing. hitting left and right at the same time isn’t a natural thing to do on a stickless.
Hopefully it will be a non issue with UMVC3.
Whoa!! That’s good to see despite all the haters that some people like the the up direction on the bottom layout that we came up with. Seeing all these custom works are sick! Keep up the good work
@enkidomark
Lol. Before I got the plexi I was using this:
I called it my cardboard custom, aka the Whiteboard. After a while the cardboard started getting flimsy. The plexi from Bencao74 is great, its really solid, I’ve even banged it around on accident a few times already and still looks new. Not gonna do art, this ones mostly for practice. I’m gonna do a separate custom fightboard (yeah, I called it a fightboard, big whoop wanna fight about it. Back me up Amp!) I kinda like the way the clear looks too. The prongs on the bottom of the buttons do need to be bent a little to fit the wires though. I am very pleased with it.
@ComeAtMeBro
To quote Mr. Wizard directly:
"The only game that comes into question with this is Marvel 3 (Which allows any controller to block both ways.)
Anything that uses a programmable input entry (making a shoryuken - 1 button input is not allowed. If you wish to mod you stick to allow blocking in both direcions, that would be allowed.
Its unfortunate that Capcom did not patch this loophole, but this situation is completely unenforcable"
Being a man of science I look at this statement and see, “Lets see what happens when people completely exploit SOCD’s.” It is only through complete and total exploitation of SOCD’s that the community will either: learn intricate and complex strategies to foil the exploiters, or, show the developers that SOCD’s must be properly addressed in the future. It is no longer up to the players to address the problem of SOCD’s. I know this position is highly controversial, but that’s what makes things interesting.
Seeing as how Capcom now knows of the SOCD problem, I don’t see why this wouldn’t be addressed in UMVC3. If it isn’t I think a lot of people will be outraged.
So to my understanding i can purchase (so i can go back and forth from stick to trying the hitbox while i wait for them to be more readily avalible) 5 Pin JLF-H cable, seperate the main connector and then connect them to the buttons like blindwithonearm said? do i need to solder anything or is it just a kind of plug in and play from then on? obv assuming i get the buttons right but if thats on the pcb shouldnt be to hard as long as i read it prop?
What kind of PCB are you using? When I made the “Cigar Box” I used a PS360 and just wired the buttons straight to the directionals.
I posted it in the New Arcade Stick Thread, but I suppose it’s appropriate here as well!
i’ll be using it on my mad catz TE round 2 i dunno what they use 
are ps360’s expensive the cigar box thing sounds like a awesome idea!
They’re unavailable right now - akishop has a new version coming out “soon”.
Depending on your console needs you could use a Chimp if you only want PC/PS3 functionality - or you can run a hacked 360 pad in line with the Chimp for ps360 compatibility. If you know how to solder just order a Paewang and run the inputs directy from the PCB to the directional buttons. Or run only a hacked 360 pad if you just need that. But there’s quite a bit of soldering involved.
You can split the wires from the harness on your TE. Just be careful so you can go back if you want.
Really I’d encourage you to just get a PCB and diy one out of a cigar box/rubbermaid/shoebox before you mess around with your stick if you’re not comfortable with the guts.
Ah i have a 360 right now, so thats what i have stick wise. So modding the TE with said wire shouldnt be hard if i can get a cover, just really wanna try a hitbox and they only doing ps3 right now