Or a template for once you switch to better materials
I just mean the best way to build a template that is scaled proper between the hitbox and noir layouts. I understand how to construct the top and control panel.
I think I will just have to get a layout of both and eye ball it. Which sucks honestly. That is why I asked for help.
No worries though, a solution will present itself.
So I was directed from the TestYourMight forums to here to post my question:
I’m looking for exactly what it is I need to put in a custom xbox one hitbox.
I can solder somewhat and have tons of experience with cutting metals woods and acrylic so I can handle the work I just have no idea other than the buttons and a pcb on how to actually compile it.
Can someone point me in the right direction? Like help with the internals and how to put them together lol?
A Xbox One controller PCB
Try the Intro thread, most of our guides are linked on their
All button controller shopping list
The case
[list]
[] Wood for the sides
[] Wood for the internals
[] Wood for the top and bottom plate
[] (optional) plexiglass top plate
[] (optional) art for under you plexiglass top plate
[] Wood glue
[] Screws
[] Varnish or paint
[*] Rubber feet
[/list]
The electronics
[list]
[] PCB (Xbox One in your case)
[] Buttons 24mm
[] Button(s) 30mm
[] Wires to connect the buttons to the PCB
[] Quickconnects to attach the wires to the buttons
[] USB cable Male A to Male B
[] (optional) USB port + small USB cable for PCB to port connection
[] (depending on PCB) SOCD cleaner
[/list]
There are many things to consider. Size I think is one of the most important choices, because you have so much influence over it. Most (all?) guides you will find on how to make a case are geared towards joysticks, for which the cases are much bigger and heavier than needed for an all button controller. Unlike a joystick, an all button does not need the weight, so while you could make it as big as a joystick if you want to, I like to make mine rather small, and as slim as 33mm.
Another thing to consider is the size, brand and number of buttons. You are going to need 24mm for the directions except up, but for the other buttons you can also go for a traditional layout with 30mm buttons, such as they are on regular arcade machines, which is what I prefer.
You could add 8 face buttons, to include all main buttons on the Xbox controller, but for 99,9% of games you could play on this type of controller 6 is all you will ever need. Don’t worry about macros either, you will have no use for them.
Sanwa is the most popular choice for buttons, but Seimitsus are just as good, so you might want to consider using those instead.
[The Crossbone](The Crossbone, Xbox One padhack with minimal effort seems an easy solution for your Xbox One PCB.
Depending on the PCB you are going to use, you also want to install a SOCD cleaner. Look into that.
Etcetera, etcetera. Most other questions will be answered by your typical guides such as Slagcoin. Let me know if you need anything specific.
Some of mine:
Thanks a ton Darksakul and JaceBuilder. Can’t wait to crack into this! Gonna start reading up on exactly what I need/want to buy and from where.
JaceBuilder,
I’m going to construct my own stickless from a cigar box. Thanks for showing pictures of your build, lets me know about how thin on depth I can go if/when I look for another cigar box to work with.
I want to use ps3 sixaxis pcb so did this pcb alows two directions at once?
I’ve found a metal shop that will make a control panels for my hitbox project. This is my first non-pad controller of any type so I have a few (probably stupid) questions:
-
I’m wanting to use Seimitsu snap-ins so the material will be 2mm thick T6 aluminium cut to a 7"x15" rectangle. They can cut the holes to the millimeter. The buttons will snap in at between 1.5mm and 3mm so 2mm should be perfect. Plexiglass isn’t required for anything other than aesthetics, is that true? I just want to screw the metal down onto a wood box and be done with it.
-
The shop is making me pay for an hour of labor for something that will probably take less than 10 minutes, so I was considering having them make 5 or so. Do you think I’d be able to sell them? I would just be looking to recoop costs, not worried about a profit.
Why not screw-ins?
I see it as the plexyglass provides a clear protective layer for what ever underneath regardless if it’s wood or metal.
The plexy will take dents, scrapes and even act as barrier against moisture. Also if you are using any sort of graphics or art design, it last longer if you have a plexyglass on top.
Even still you would want your metal panel treated in some manner that prevent rust and corrosion. A clear coat or a prime and paint should cover it.
Depending on the method it be about 10 minuets of the actual cutting and drilling. But there is alot of prep work before and follow up work afterwards.
Even if the work done with a CNC machine, there the drafting the design in CAD, translating that file into something usable for the CNC machine. Prepping the piece to get cut. Sometimes precutting the metal stock to a more manageable size. Setting up all the tooling for the machine and clamping the work into place. Often the cutting bits have to be swapped out for different size/type cutting bits for various cuts. That is assuming they aren’t using a laser cutter or a water jet cutter (which can cost more to run). Then once the CNC machine done, sometimes you got to go back in and clean up any rough cuts or surfaces. And if the metal shop is not painting or providing a clear coat they would coat the piece on oil to prevent rust (on the short term).
Top of that most shops have a minimum hourly labor charge. So a 10 minuet job and a 45 minuet job still gets charged an hour for the job.
I came across some snap-ins for free and upon initial research this seemed like a fun project to use them on.
I will likely be getting it cut from aluminum and was planning on just slapping a clear coat on it. I just wanted to double check that the plexi layer didnt have some function that was integral to the operation of the hitbox. I know that sounds dumb, I’m just unfamiliar with all this.
I didn’t mean to sound like I was complaining or that the shop was ripping me off. I somewhat understand the practicalities. I was just curious if anyone thought that people would buy spares if I had them made (just the metal panel, no plexi included) — thanks for responding, I appreciate it.
Just some minor issues, it be forum rules.
No Selling on Tech Talk, you have to take it to the trading post.
For the trading post you need a minimum of 6 months and 50 post before you could sell.
Hey Guys, i hope someone here could help me.
I builded an “All-Button-Controller” for XBoxOne and PS4 with an original XBone Padhack and an Hori FC4 Padhack.
I also had to make an SOCD-cleaner for left & right (i made it from an M74HC00 Chip.
Now after i inserted the SOCD-Cleaner i got an issue (only on PS4) that when i press left or right, sometimes my L2 button gets pushed even if i dont touch it.
I really really hope someone can help me with this, its so annoying when you play MK:X and you get f****d up because you randomly interact with the background items 
First post in very long time for me! I am looking at modding a TE stick into a SLAC/Hitbox using this http://arcadeforge.net/Arcade-Control-Panel/Madcatz-TE-Faceplates/Madcatz-TE-Hitbox-Button-Layout-Metal-Replacement::55.html.
My question is - will my old mc cthulhu have the SOCD functionality that I need or will I need to buy something else?
Double posting just in case someone else has the same question. I emailed Toodles who confirmed that yes, the MC Cthulhu has everything I need. Happy days!
Don’t double post, use the edit function, at the top right corner of your post there is a icon of a gear, you see the option for edit, click on that.
@TroN
for the case you want to see how it will look like
http://img09.deviantart.net/78f1/i/2015/198/e/e/hitbox_by_appomo-d91o2f5.jpg
be prepared for scratches on the plate and you have to clean all edges from metal especially the holes.
Got it, sorry about that - it has been a while since I posted here, forgot the rules!
@Appomo, thanks for that - really useful. I wasn’t aware at first that the right hand buttons were smaller.