I’m not here on behalf of Hit Box, I’m simply asking you a question. you were playing Warhammer on your stickless, so I’m assuming you still have up, down, left, and right as movements still, no? So once again, what would be beneficial about hitting left and right at the same time? Or do you map Alt+1 to movements?
The long & short of it for me is it’s a artificial hardware limitation I can find a input PCB without.
PC gamers have endless reasons for remapping the POV hat to anything they need/want.
It makes sense for two fighting games, as far the rest of entire PC platform it’s two inputs that now have a roll over issue. As hard as keeping your pads configured in MAME setup’s can be I wouldn’t use a PCB I knew had two inputs blocked if pushed simultaneously.
PC’s probably not a big chunk of the audience anyways.
The point I was trying to make when building a peripheral I don’t view it as Left + Right. I view it as Input A & Input B that I’m going to map/assign/script to any purpose that is required.
The firmware in the PCB prevents both inputs from being used in combination. That’s not a limitation I view as a feature or a positive when doing a build.
One example of a DIY peripheral that Cthulu would no longer be suitable for where it was previously.
For that specific example, if you were playing on a PS2 pad, you would still not be able to press left and right at the same time, and instead you would press left and circle or right and square. I’m sure there are other examples that would work, though.
Oh snap got my TE (S) to Hit Stick conversion going. There was some extra aluminum sheet metal in the shop at work.
Next up is to make a square-ish hole for the turbo and guide button block followed by the dreadfully boring part about prepping wires… 
Here is mine at the current stage… haven’t put the buttons in yet.
But I was wondering if anyone could please help me out as I have a couple of questions.
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How do I go on about cutting the holes in the perspex?? (I’m in the UK by the way, so some of the tools you guys have in the US may not be available here!!)
I do have 24" and 30" shovel drill bits, but wasn’t sure if the perspex would crack. -
I’ve got the Cthulhu PS3/PC board, and wanted that when I plug my USB cable into the PS3, the box lights up from maybe an LED or 2… Is this possible?? I thought about connecting a wire from the VCC to the LED and the other side to the ground. But not sure if it would blow the LED or would blow the board.
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Does the Cthulhu board have the SOCD by default, or would I have to update the firmware? Also, does the ‘Jump’ function still take priority over the ‘Down’ button or is this custom firmware that the Hitbox™ guys have done??
Many thanks!!!
~Kobra
- It can be done, and it’s not very hard, but it’s definitely unsupported. For each LED you want to use, you need a resistor; I’d recommend a 150 to 200 ohm resistor for white or blue LEDs, and a 200-400 ohm resistor for other colors. LED’s have an orientation you have to know about; there’s a flat side next to one leg; that leg closest to the flat side gets connected to a GND screw terminal. The other leg gets connected to one leg of the resistor, and the other leg of the resistor goes into the VCC screw terminal on the Cthulhu.
- PS3/PC Cthulhu doesn’t have it at all, and won’t. Newest MC Cthulhu firmware does have the SOCD cleaning, and does have Up>Down.
Thanks fot the reply Toodles!!! So the Multiconsole version of the Cthulhu has it?? I’ve attached a link here, so was wondering if you could confirm if this is the one that I need??
http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/products/mc-cthulhupcb.htm
Many thanks again!
Yup, that’s the one. But definitely make sure to update the firmware ASAP. Until you do, the SOCD cleaning wont be there.
I’m trying to build a fightless stick while waiting to order an official hitbox. I’m pretty noob at this but I just want to make sure. If I get a toodles cthulhu board, I can send the directional buttons directly into it correct? I saw the guts of someone else who made one and he had the directional buttons going to the microswitches of I’m assuming a on old TE Sanwa stick and then these went to the PCB.
Just trying to figure out all the parts I need.
I have a way to obtain a custom case.
Then I was gonna buy
-Sanwa Buttons
-Crimps
-Wiring
-PCB
If I do this correctly, there should be no soldering necessary right?
- That is correct. For each of the four direction buttons, you connect one leg to ground (the GND screw terminal, or a wire that goes there) and the other leg to the direction screw terminal. But, I’d highly recommend getting an MC Cthulhu, since it has the SOCD cleaning you’ll need for better operation.
- That is correct. Buttons to QD’s to wires to screw terminals. Definitely make sure to read up on how to do a daisy chain:
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html#SPLICING_AND_CHAINING
so that you’ll have just a few ground wires going to the Cthulhu instead of 15 of them. Also add a USB cable to your shopping list, a long A to B on. Cthulhu doesn’t come with one, and one is required.
Thank’s alot Toodles for the quick and helpful information.
Finally finished making mine out of my hori rap-ex.
Must admit, I see every advantage to it but I just don’t have the time to relearn playing.
So I put it up for sale. Hopefully someone will enjoy it 
Thanks for the reply Toodles! Can you please tell me, where do I update the firmware from?? Did a search on Google and nothing has come up… Thanks In Advance!!!
First post of Cthulhu thread, URL in sig.
Thanks for that Toodles!! Just got it now. Does the OP update when the newer firmware is released?? Thanks!!
Yup, I try to keep the links and info in the first post up to date.
But when SRK decides to change they’re URL formats again, those particular links may be a bit slow to update 
It’s the same situation for me. I made a pretty ghetto one out of a TE and while some stuff was awesomely easy, like dashing, there was a lot that was really difficult. And I know if I kept at it for a few days, possibly a week I’d get comfortable with it, but it’s just too tempting to go back to what I know. (a stick)
When I get some money I may try it again, but for now I’m content with what I’ve got.
Is the jump button on the Lightning Label Customs hitbox panel a 40mm? I’ve been searching around and I’ve only seen one shop online who lists it.
New player to fighters. I’ve basically as of an hour ago have bought 4 stick/stickless * TE r1 in hand, TE s in the mail, buying a custom dial modded hitbox tonight from someone on here and preordering a qanba q4*. I would have gotten a hitbox originally, but a friend talked me out of it.
Couple weeks later. Still dying to get one, so I’m pretty excited to get the hitbox, not like I have to relearn anything so I have got nothing to lose
I think you mean 30mm button and yes it is. all buttons are 24mms except the jump button which is 30mm