Uh…why not use the actual mounting plate as a guide…Just remove it from the respective stick.
~Paik
I would but im still waiting for it to ship from lizardlick going on 2 weeks now. I have the joystick frame made and would like some sort of usable template to work on my top panel.
For now I would just use the measurements to make the recessed area but leave the drilling for the mounting holes until the joystick gets there.
All the measurements are on AkihabaraShop and are in mm.
~Paik
Henry, your in here as well? How have you been! It’s been a while good sir. Congrats as well man!! :wgrin: Life is much rewarding now isn’t it? Sorry to get ahead of myself but I was gonna ask a question regarding the JLF that was put my in Hori in this here site and who better than the man himself to help me. lol.
I’m not having an issue or anything but I want to make the stick feel loose. At the moment it requires too much effort to move. Is it the stick itself or do I need a light spring? I feel the microswitches engaging properly but that’s what I"m concluding. Thanks again chingo.
- Melendez
Great thread, but I’d really like hear some differences between the models of sticks. Such as JLF vs JLW and the various Seimitsu joysticks.
Yeah, since I made this thread, I feel like it’s my duty to answer questions when people post them.
I’m surprised you think that it’s too tight. Most people think JLF is too loose. Anyway, you would have to get a softer spring. Sanwa doesn’t sell different grades of spring for specific joysticks, but you can use springs made for other joysticks on the JLF as long as they “fit.” I honestly don’t know which spring would be best for you but maybe the LS-56 spring. I’m not sure if that will fit on the JLF. I will ask Per for you and post again later. He knows more about spring tension and which ones are interchangeable than I do.
Well there are just so many sticks, if you want to narrow down the list a bit, it would make helping you out a lot easier. Even when you saw JLW, there are two different types (well three if you are consider battop vs balltop a difference). Seimitsu has 5 different sticks (not countind -01 models as different since they aren’t aside from having microswitches on a PCB for 5-pin wiring). There’s the LS-32, 33, 40, 55, 56.
AkihabaraShop gives a small description of each but for super detailed measurements, you can go here (was linked in my initial posts) courtesy of kowal
http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/4286/beztytuuco8.gif
Frankly, I’m not going to do a comparison of each one. Just try out a couple that you think you’d like given other people’s opinions and the facts provided and then make your choice.
~Paik
Well here’s the thing, what’s currently in mine is tighter than what’s in the arcades as well as the TE stick from Madcatz. Performing 720’s is rugged. lol.
Let me know what you find!
P.S. You still hanging out with James and the crew? I remember you told me you moved to the VA District. What’s new?
What’s the difference between a N-30, SW-68, RS-SG?
I assume they’re microswitches.
Also, how often do the nuts on the OBSN buttons get loose?
Hrm…weird. I can’t say that I remember at all.
From the looks of things for a lighter spring I think you can use the LS-33 spring.
The N-30 is the OBSN-30 orange nut. The SW-68 are the Sanwa microswitches for the OBSF-30, OBSN-30, OBSF-24, and OBSN-24 buttons and RS-SG are the switches for the longer lastig RG series of buttons (OBSF-30RG and OBSN-30RG).
~Paik
i feel retarded but anyway i’ve found diagrams for the fingering and spacing for the top of the control panel, but i can’t find dimensions for the control panel, i can understand ppl have there preference but has anyone made a complete guide (step by step) to building there first arcade stick?
How do people in Japan pronounce “???”?
"???" or “???”
I’m confused. Is the W in “Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK-W” indicative of the color of the ball top? There are so many model numbers of Sanwa sticks but which is the best? I’ve searched the first 25 pages of this thread and got tired. Hoping someone knows that can help me understand. The Mad Catz TE and HRAP 3 SA both have this stick but HRAP EX has a Sanwa JLF-TM-8T-SK-K. What does the K stand for? HRAP 3 has Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK, no letter at the end. Again, I’m puzzled. IS there really a difference? I’ve read that any Sanwa is equally good as long as it’s a JLF but just would like some reassurance so I don’t buy and unnecessary stick.
All JLFs are essentially the same.
I’ll break down the code for you
JLF - Stick model
TP - TP-MA is the PCB board that the microswitches are connected to
TM - This is for HRAP EX because it doesn’t use the TP-MA because the TP-MA uses a common ground while some PCBs (like the early 360 controllers don’t use a common ground). This means the microswitches are separate and have the .187 tabs for quick disconnects.
8Y - Means it’s 8-way gate is installed stock
8YT - The T means that the flat mounting plate comes pre-installed
8S - The S means that the s-shaped mounting plate comes pre-installed
SK - This means that the shaft cover and the accompanying dust cover are pre-installed
The letter at the end - This is for color. W is white, K is black, R is red, DH is dark hai (grey). Most of them are pretty self-explanatory.
But yes, anything JLF will be the same aside from accessories and colors. The biggest difference being the TP vs TM but since the same microswitches are use, you won’t find a difference in performance.
~Paik
Thanks! Very helpful.
???.
thanks digitalrebel for link, i love that resource, im going to make the outside box 10" by 16", how thick is the mdf used on avg for the outside of the box? 0.5"? i am just going to do four pieces straight cut and glue them together
That would be fine. I’m using 3/4" for mine just because I already had scraps lying around, but .5 would work well also.
How do you plan on mounting everything?
Is it easy to swap a Seimitsu stick into a HRAP with the stock JLF in it? Or would I be better off building a Seimitsu Madcatz SE mod?
^^
Depends on the HRAP.