Looks like a Seimitsu LS-32 (no -01)
Ls32
Seimitsu LS-32 with a Sega custom mounting plate intended to fit their Astro City and older arcade panels (newer panels use a different design).
Can I use newer LS-32âs? It looks like the mounting plate is welded on.
While the mounting bracket is probably welded to the panel the mounting plate should be attached to the stick body with screws. In order to get the correct mounting depth/shaft length youâll have to remove those plates and reuse them with your replacement joysticks.
I think itâs more of a preference thing. I play worse on a square gate myself.
The best thing to do is just get both and see which one you like better.
Can anyone whoâs up to speed with the different Seimitsu buttons confirm whether they all have the same feel to them please?
To explain what I mean by this, I made a stick using PS-14-G snap in buttons and prior to this had used both happ competition pro and sanwa OBSFâs. The sanwa buttons are too sensitive for my liking, only requiring you rest your finger gently on top of the button to activate it, the happ competition buttons require you actually push the button down to activate it, the PS-14-G buttons also require you actually push the button down to activate it (aswell as having an pretty flat top).
Iâm looking at various suppliers of Seimitsu buttons and not all suppliers stock the PS-14-G buttons, iâm not too fussed about the shape of the buttons but can anyone confirm if there are other buttons (for example are all seimitsu buttons like this?) that require a full push to activate rather than the very sensitive sanwa buttons?
Got a weird questionâŚif I got the Seimitsu LS-32-01, would I be able to put the LS-32 mounting plate on it? Would it use the same mounting points as the Sanwa JLF-TP-8T?
So the new ('07/'08) Seimitsu catalogue doesnât seem to mention skeleton or pearl buttons⌠PS-14-K and PS-14-K, respectively. Have they been discontinued?
I believe the PS-14-K and PS-14-P have been discontinued, but Seimitsu has released the new PS-14-KN, which is just a screw-in version of the PS-14-K. Check Perâs thread for pictures.
Yes you can put the flat plate on the ls-32-01 so you can also have the pcb and 5-pin connector. Wait to get the RE-Mounting plate and compare it to your JLF plate before you drill the holes. If you align them properly the holes will match up.
The mounting depths are different between the LS-32 and the JLF though. The JLF sits low in a recess under the plexi and the LS-32 needs to sit high and practically touch the underside of the plexi.
I may just be an idiot, but I got several questions that I need to ask. I recently bought a premade stick at a Gamestop for $15, a steal once you think about it, looking to replace it with Happ parts. I bought the stick against buying KOFXI, for the record. I bring this baby home and open the package when all of the sudden when I go to feel the stick, it was rubbing against something and I felt resistance in the stick. Wondering what the hell is up, I go and open the case when I see a floor tile(it was cut to fit the case) that was sitting on the stick, the buttons, everything. I promptly removed the tile and now everything is fine with the stick.
Hereâs my question to those who have bought premade sticks, is the use of tiles as weight a common practice? Pics of the evidence upon request.
You probably bought a Saulabi (Korean stick). Saulabi is known to be super ghetto and weigh down their sticks with concrete blocks. The stock joystick may be ok. Check to see if it has leaf switches or microswitches. If it has microswitches, then your stick is a normal Fanta. If leaf switches, then put a regular Fanta in it. The stock buttons suck and should be replaced with Crown buttons (Happ buttons may fit and you will have to enlarge the holes for Sanwa/Seimitsu). If the stick is the wireless one, then it probably lags and you should swap the PCB to a PS1 dualshock (you can buy this pre-wired with quick disconnects, be sure they fit the parts you will install, in the Trading Outlet). You can buy Korean joysticks/buttons from laugh.
The stick is from Nakiworld, is the stick still Korean? I want to avoid any unnecessary modifications on it if I can, since the stick, while it is wireless, can work on both the XBox and PS2. Also the fact that everything on the PS2 controller is there and can run as a regular controller is a big selling point not to mod it. Iâll provide pics of the interior in about an hour to let you judge for yourself.
Double post, but hereâs the pics:
Top view of the stick:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a250/pearlslam/th_Sticktopview.jpg
The interior of the stick:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a250/pearlslam/th_Stickinterior.jpg
The PCB of the stick:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a250/pearlslam/th_PCB.jpg
A close up view of the bottom of the stick:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a250/pearlslam/th_controlstickbottom.jpg
The weight:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a250/pearlslam/th_Brick.jpg
And the glue that was used to hold it in place:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a250/pearlslam/th_Glue.jpg
so i built a stick with sanwa parts but find myself not lifting my finger off the button enough when pressing quicklyâŚyou barely have to press the button down to get it to register, so i assume i am not letting it up all the wayâŚare Seimitsu buttons any less touchy? i want to be able to keep my stick under 3 inches tall, so no happ
Seimistu buttons should be what you are looking for then. They are indeed, âless touchyâ.
Thanks man!
Iâm using a [default] square restrictor right now on my VHSG, although I donât feel itâs the best for circular movements. Itâs a JLF so I guess Iâll have to get an octagon replacement. But is it just as easy to get a whole new JLW so that I can have circular? By the way, do any of the JLWâs have 5-pin compatibility? I think thatâs the one in the VHSG.
Nevermind. I got it resolved.