That’s not as simple as you would think. Razer would have to engineer their own LED circuit boards that could fit in or around clear sanwa buttons, then write their own code to make synapse compatible with said boards. Something like that would most likely cause the price of the stick to rise quite a bit. MadCatz’s TE2 LED board is sort of exempt from this due to the fact that they are just white LEDs with either an ON/OFF function.
Razer’s got the in-house chops to make it far more trivial of a process than most places (they pretty much own their keyboard production keyswitch line at this point, and aren’t even going through Kailh anymore). Hell, they were giving away cycling RGB switches at E3 last year for shits and giggles. If Paradise Arcade and Jasen’s Customs can design in-house boards with LEDs mounted, Razer could easily do the same. Especially on a stick like the Panthera, which is designed never to deviate from the stock layout. They have just about everything in Synapse at this point - I can’t imagine that being all that difficult either. Even the Firefly mouse mat is supported by Synapse.
So I took the plexi off my Panthera. It comes off pretty clean with the art intact. The glue holding it on isn’t particularly strong. Just have to be careful to not pry up the plexi and crack it. I just started sliding stuff under it.
Judging from the panel underneath, you certainly could use your own art if you drilled the plexi and swapped out the existing screws. It looks like they’ve done that for the Lupe Fiasco stick here:
I’m going to see about getting some other plexi made in a different color. I could probably remove the existing artwork from the plexi with some sort of solvent, though. Looks like a big white sticker with printing on it.
Firmware update for the Panthera is out.
For anyone who has issues with input lag, this is a must download.
@MarkMan has confirmed that their internal testing has shown to bring the lag down to an average of 3ms compared to 10ms with the older firmware. We’ve performed our own testing (which you can see here) that confirms this as well.
Sorry to be a pain but I cant get the firmware to install. To be clear I’ve never installed anything on PS4 via Flash Drive that said I figured it be much easier than it has been in this particular case.
Google told me to create folders (PS4, UPDATE, PS4UPDATE.PUP), it is indeed formatted in Fat32. I’ve restarted the system with and without the drive plugged in, I booted it up in Safe Mode.
No idea whats going on to be honest, I’ve got no notification that an update took place.
Any help would be appreciated.
You’re supposed to install the firmware in the Panthera, not the PS4.
Run the firmware on PC and it should provide instructions. Basically, run the firmware updater, set the Panthera to PS4, press and hold Circle and R1, then plug it into the computer.
I hate Razer do nothing for XB1 Atrox, they don’t fix the 6 button and no update what so ever
Not every pcb is can be flashed with new fw. In fact afaik the panthera is the first retail stick to support fw upgrade.
The 6 button issue needs to be fixed by Microsoft.
Alright thank you, had no idea you installed it that way. Didn’t realize you had to open anything on the PC, I was on Mac and just assumed you transferred it to PS4 and it auto installed or some shit.
Any updates on your plexi experimentation with the Panthera?
Hey,
I’m planning on modding my Atrox with the UFB and I’m going to add extra buttons to the left of the stick for L3/R3/etc. I plan to buy the UFB with headers so I can have a full solderless system. I’ve already bought a pack of JST headers and crimps, main issue I’m having is crimping the wire. I keep crushing the metal crimps. I have the same crimper as used in the slagcoin guide. Is there a more robust and quality crimper that isn’t too expensive that anyone can recommend?
Yes. I took acetone to the plexi in hopes of removing the artwork. The print is printed directly onto the plexi and doesn’t come off. Then a coat of white is added onto the printing to make it visible (otherwise it’s just clear blue). So I was able to remove the white coat only with acetone. Then, I put mirror finish decal on the stick and rubber cemented (on the dark parts) the plexi back down, leaving me with mirror/shiny blue instead of just the current blue. It feels the same and almost looks the same except shiny.
Overall, would not recommend this mod lol. It took so much damn time for the smallest of results. If you want custom art you have to hope you can get replacement plexi. Removing the plexi and adhesive isn’t too hard. And screwing down the new plexi is certainly doable. But removing the existing print? Nope.
So I just got an Xbox One Atrox for about $60 and I have the PS3/4 Brook Fighting Board with a breakout board lying around. What is the best way to get the Brook Board into the Atrox? I was hoping to use a 20 pin connector but I don’t know if that is possible.
Currently focusattack is working on a plexi for it. Ive been back and forth with the guys there through twitter dm. Apparently they are doing a plexi for the qanba crystal then after that they will work on the panthera.
Does anyone know if Hori Hayabusa Joystick fits in the Atrox/Panthera properly? Or would it require modding for standard height & fit?
Fits perfectly.
I really hope this is true
EDIT: I emailed them asking about this and was told basically the same thing, they’re gonna try and work something out soon.
Sup guys. I lost one of the screws that holds the plexi frrom the underside on the 360/xbone atrox. Anyone know what the specs are for those screws?
can i see pictures of it. my roomate has a rap kai he doesnt use, and i miss using my hyabusa joystick
Debating on picking up a Panthera too. It’s a sickness.