You can in the same way that you could remove the TES+ plexi, though since it’s thicker it might snap as you pull it up from the glue.
I’m not gonna uncover the pcb as I haven’t decided if I am keeping it yet. No xinput on a Razer product seems like a huge oversight.
Ok, just to clarify, atrox has 6 screws on the bottom of the lid witch need to be unscrewed to allow the plexi to be lifted up. So your saying the plexi is now glued to the top panel and unscrewing these screws does nothing?
there are no screws
Holy shit that was one of the things the atrox had going for it. Im guessing they decided against it because the turbo panel is in the area where the top middle screw was.
Markman told me it was a functional change to make it feel more solid. It works, imo. The top panel isn’t the same so the hole placements wouldn’t matter.
Oh yeah, from earlier in this thread:
Product Weight: 3.32Kg
Product Width: 262mm
Product Length: 380mm
Product Height: 126mm
Btw did they put anything on the pcb cover screws to indicate its been tampered with?
Who cares, the unofficial motto here is Warranty Voided.
Only Company who I seen really do it to all their screws is Mad Catz.
Razer would if anything have a warranty void if broken sticker.
Hello guys, I changed the balltop to a yellow one, bu it keeps getting loose from time to time (every hour or so).
I do not know if I am missing something in regards how to attach it…
Maybe I´m applying too much force when using the Stick??
The stick is the sanwa that comes with the Atrox, I just change the restrictor gate to Octagonal, and used this balltop: SEIMITSU-LB35-BALLTOP-YELLOW
Maybe balltops need to be same brand?
Thanks
Tighten it with a flat head screwdriver
THIS, do this.
Just hold on to that balltop as you twist the joystick’s shaft with a screw driver.
There a slot for a screw flat head screw driver.
Malaysian here…i have a friend who keep both original PCB, plus the installation with Cthulu PCB are half time consumed which means its easier than all new installation (without both original PCB as per plasmawaffle instruction).
i think it should applied the same to Brook Universal PCB. i just don’t know how. Help, anyone please?
p.s: errr…Panthera is quite expensive right? 
Guys?? Panthera? seriously?
I guess its the same thing that has been done by razer to my SSF4 limited edition Atrox.
----- art can’t be changed -----
boy i was dreaming to put Haggar and Alex Art on top
(alex’s ending where they wrestle together in Capcom Jam Fighting Evoultion)
Here is mine, dual moded with brook ps3/ps4 pcb
Here is a picture of the Panthera’s PCB
Does anyone know the input delay of the pantheras pcb? Or would anyone that owns one be willing to test it?
i have a razer atrox (xbox360), kamana mini kit and some wire like this, anyone know how to connect the kaimana mini board to razer PCB? thanks all . @Vicko @armi0024 @“Jasen Hicks”
I don’t have kaimana breakout board
connect the inputs to the matching inputs on the razer board. It’s no different than dual modding.
ahh ok, so how to connect 2 vcc and 3 GND ? where Where is it in the atrox PCB, is that? thanks for the help!! @Vicko
Cmon man I can’t help you with everything lol. Everything you need is in this thread.
![[IMG]http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg541/Seqosanwa/razer%20atrox%20dual%20moded_zpsag1ugphp.jpg](http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/Seqosanwa/media/razer%20atrox%20dual%20moded_zpsag1ugphp.jpg.html){kind=link}