I already did those things I checked like 50 times the continuity on all the wires, even checked the dpdt the three on top is the D+ and the other three are D-, any other suggestions?

I already did those things I checked like 50 times the continuity on all the wires, even checked the dpdt the three on top is the D+ and the other three are D-, any other suggestions?
Did you check continunity between all pcbs? To make sure Vcc and gnd is connected throughout and not bridged?
Did you try connecting the usb directly to either pcb?
[/quote]
Sorry but, stupid question, I need to put the 4 pcb cables into the usb without desoldering the rest of the wires?
Guys, if I want to mod the Atrox using the FC4 pcb I can do it using an european style terminal strip to wiring everything? I’ve never do it before,but seems more simple. I’m not interested in a dual-mod work,but PS4 only. Thanks in advance
I’m also planning on modding my atrox (360) with the FC4. If I want to re-use the existing usb connector, I have to cut the D+/D- traces. But if I cut them, how are the D+/D- signals being connected from the existing usb cable to the atrox pcb?
Anyone used a usb type B breakout box and mounted it? whats the best way to mount a normal usb connection?
If you only want to use the USB connector, you’ll have to cut the traces in the Atrox’s pcb.
Then, you’ll have to solder the FC4’s USB to the pins under the connector.
thnx. but you can leave the V and G alone and only cut and rewire d+ and d- ?
I’m probably just going to mount something like this
and leave the original connector untouched.
You can leave power and ground alone, just cut the traces, it’s not that hard. Are you using an IMP or a DPDT to switch between pcbs?
How are you going to mount that?
I will go for a dpdt. I actually prefer a normal usb cable instead op the proprietary. so it makes more sense for a usb breakout
you’ll have to desolder/destroy the current jack, so if i were you i’d wait until it actually fails on you.
TBH if you’re going to replace the original header, use a neutrik since USB A is pretty unreliable as is.
not going to replace. just put in a new one next to it and screw it in the honeycomb. this way i can always go back to original. the pcb box can be moved thanks to the honeycomb. a neutrik would require to dril a bigger hole. the break out box fits fine. i was planning to use an usb B like the neutrik.
parts are coming in later today. i will try and make pictures. I think I can screw the breakout board on the honeycomb and align it with the hole. the atrox pcb box can be moved so it should work…
Okay almost finished
Mount of usb port looks like this.
and almost completed.
The atrox is awesome for modding, you can use jumper wires, this way you can always revert back to the org configuration without soldering. The honeycomb is also cool for mounting stuff.
Not too bad for first padhack
I was skeptical how you would get the mod done, but you prove me wrong.
Nice Job.
Question, I see that piece of wood their screwed down, but I am not seeing how that USB connector is attached to it.
Is it glued down?
that was a layout pic just to show how I did it. the usb connector is mounted with 2 screws on to the wood after soldering. this usb breakout has 2 holes that can be used to mount it. it fits quite nice.
very nice
hopefully you don’t have the same problems with USB A as most do
The breakout box uses an usb B connector. I have used those for couple of years on the other stick, no problem with the B connector so far.