*The "padhacking" thread*

figured it out. i had to put a 4pdt in there to switch off the trigger lines to the 360 pcb when in ps3 mode

I also recently got a madcatz controller to hack and I was wondering the same thing. Iā€™m pretty sure itā€™s fine to chop it off but iā€™d rather wait for someone with more experience to answer this.

I donā€™t get it, why at first you posted a pin diagram then you mod your PCB by the solder point of those buttons?

is it because something difficult came up while you are modding by using pin?

also, regard to the diagram given by slagcoin, I am kind of confuse.

at the bottom of the PCB, what does the yellow circles mean, and why is there a 5v and also a 3v solder point at the bottom of the PCB?

i tried to solder to the connector on the other side, but the wires werenā€™t holding steady.

iā€™d like to know as well.

i canā€™t find any of the madcatz ones anywhere, and whenever i go to gamestop they only seem to have these kinds of pads.

Been trying to read through this thread for answers, but, seeing how long a thread this isā€¦

ā€¦whatā€™s the general consensus on a good DC pad to use for hacking? It seems like everyoneā€™s against the official pad due to lag. I went nosing around town today, and found a Yobo DC pad, with the C & Z buttons. Didnā€™t buy because I didnā€™t know whether itā€™d work right or not.

Also a picture with the points for the pads suggested would by much appreciated.

I found some at Movie Gallery. I donā€™t know what locations have that chain, but if you got one, go check.

fyi, after frying my sixaxis, i went with a logic3 wireless motion sensing gamepad. keep your hands away from that piece of crap, it lags like hell. plus, the usb receiver is pretty ugly. going for a psx pcb now, doesnā€™t seem like thereā€™s any good wireless hackable pad out there (besides pain-in-the-ass-solder-sixaxis). too bad :frowning:

Madcatz/gamestop(they are both the same) usually have their controllers as being common ground. It pretty much is the only reason why they even are sold; cheaper and common ground. As for that controller, i guess no one will know until pictures get taken.

rumbles and motors are always safe to chop off(unless theres like a third or forth wire that might actually do something, (highly doubt that though)).

why wireless ps3, is a cord really that bad? anyways canā€™t you do a solderless wiring setup with that ps3 controller?
madcatz sells some wireless though http://www.ebgames.com/Catalog/ProductDetails.aspx?product_id=72087
Edit: oh snaps your EU, dunno what to tell you then about other pads to use

question, do ps2 Dual Shocks hack the same way as PS1?

And if so what are the disadvantages of doing so?

IIRC they hack the same way

but the biggest difference people have been saying is that PS2 pads are just harder to hack(getting the wire/solder to stay on the pad) cause the material used in the ps2 pads is different from ps1 pads.

Still looking for an answer to this.

I have a question: I have an early model wireless pad for the 360 that has a fucked up right trigger. One of my first projects when learning to solder was trying to fix it. I failed horribly, and obliterated the solder points for the potentiometer. Are there any alternate solder points anywhere on the board so I can attach a resistor and get it set to neutral? I want to save this controller as these things are really fucking expensive.

DS2ā€™s are hackable, but require more work because of the pressure sensitive buttons. I know some resistor stuff has to be done, but I dont remember the exact values or where they go. I do know that the info for doing it is somewhere in this thread. So, DS2ā€™s are harder to hack, and since we donā€™t take advantage of the analog buttons, thereā€™s no real advantage to having a DS2 in your stick. DS1ā€™s are easier with no drawbacks.

A pad with C and Z buttons is always a good place to start, so if theyā€™re cheap, definitely grab a couple.

The consensus for the best DC pcb to hack is the one from the Agetec stick, but that can be hard to find at times. Outside of that, Iā€™d go ahead and say to get those Yoboā€™s, tear one open, and post up pictures and we can probably pin most of it out.

Iā€™m sure there are, but we rarely keep that kind of info around. The best place to check is xbox-scene for posts from RDC; he posts up break downs and highlights traces for individual buttons/triggers. If anyone has already done a picture saying ā€˜orange trace is right triggerā€™, heā€™s the one.

i hacked a DS3 2 weeks ago and i know how troublesome it is to hack that thing ā€¦ but really is DS3 lag free or not (and how many ms of lag does it have)?

PS:sorry for my crapy english :smiley:

I got a DS1ā€¦ It was one of the made in Korea ones, $5. I live near a decent gaming pawn shop.

i need help with a sixaxis hack. On slagcoinā€™s site, he has a diagram

My question is, if i soldered the resistors to the points shown on the left picture, can i just do a normal solderless hack by inserting wires into the slot in the right picture?
Or if i want to do a solderless hack i have to jump the wires by inserting resistors into the slots on the right picture?

Also, to Missing Person, i think the madcatz dreampad is a good pad to hack for the dc.

awesome, thanks for the lookout. Iā€™ll see if I can hunt one down, and hunt the hack out in this thread.

I have a madcatz dreampad pcb if you want one. No casing though, just the pcb itself

Very tempting good sir. How much would you want for it? I just might take it.

Not really interested in the casing, just as long as it works.