*The "padhacking" thread*

Okay… you just confused the shit out of me…

anyone know off hand if the hrap3 is cg? sorry. couldn’t find it anywhere

All of the HRAPs (except the HRAP EX) are common ground.

cool, thanks

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We need this bot removed =\

Just wanted to say thanks to Slagcoin for mapping out the back of the sixaxis I was able to take out the ribbons on some of my sticks for a cleaner install.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll247/patman505/Picture155.jpg

And is there anyway to donate to your site slagcoin I tried to find a link or something but no such luck, I I take and take form your site and it’s helped me out tremendously and I feel like your time making that site shouldn’t be just expected or overlooked by me. Thanks Slagcoin.

that is a very clean install, major props bigpockets!!! Is that Kevlar? How do you do that if it is. I would love to see some outside shots of that bueaty. The only complaint I have is the butt connectors. Coming from the car audio industry I much prefer solder and heatshrink instead of butt connectors. However this is a minor issue on a georgous stick.

Here’s an outside pick http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?p=5433807#post5433807

im wondering something . ive soldered the buttons and done the entire job on a ps1 dual shock A.

the analogue part of the controller , could i just leave it there without doing anything about it ???
or do i have to mess around with resistors and remove the little analogue circuit card ???

fing sweet! I’ve seen that before and I thought that was the same stick, cuz it’s the only Kevlar stick I’ve ever seen. Major props, bueatiful piece of art.

That looks like it would be a major pain in the ass to make. Having the rounded over plastic, mixed with a Kevlar reinforced inside. Was it as hard to do as it looks?

so much easier to leave that little pcb right where it is

thanks man …this saves me a lot of trouble hehe. … soldering isnt all that difficult …but i dunno how to mess with resistors. and you just confirmed what i had hoped. :smiley:

Hi guys,
i tried to search but i couldnt find anything about it. Does anybody know if the Madcatz Gamepad Pro uses the commond ground on the pcb ? Cause the normal version uses it, and i just wanted to be sure that the Pro version has the common ground too before buying one of those. I just cant find a normal madcatz gamepad, so i’ll have to get the Pro one.
Thanks

I did a PSOne/360 dual PCB which worked great, and now I’m looking at doing a Cthulu/360 dual setup. Cthulu and 360 are both USB pinout for connection to consoles. Most people are apparently doing a DPDT switch, but I have a nice new case I don’t want to put more holes into.

So my thought was to use a 6 pin mini-din connector. The “bottom” two pins run voltage and ground, which of course are connected to both boards. The “left” two pins run to D+ and D- on the Chtulu, and the “right” two pins run to D+ and D- on the 360. Then I make two cords which only have the D+ and D- of their respective boards soldered.

This makes perfect sense to me (and pretty close to what I did on my PSOne/360 hack), but I wanted to make sure I wasn’t doing something incredibly stupid.

If you dont mind a little bit of extra work, perhaps you could be talked into using a USB hub? Get a small USB hub that you don’t worry about destroying. Open it up, desolder the tiny USB cable the hub comes with off, and solder a good real USB cable in its place, like the one from the 360 pad. Connect the power, ground, and two USB wires from the Cthulhu to one input port on the hub, and connect the power, ground, and two USB wires from the xbox360 pcb to the other input port.

viola, one clean USB cable coming out the back of the stick and each console automagically uses the console it was designed for.

I suppose I could do that, but wouldn’t it register as 2 controllers if I put it into a PC? Not that it matters too much, I guess, but I’d worry slightly about programs like GGPO freaking out come button mapping time.

If I can find a small enough hub locally I may try that, with the Cthulu and Madcatz PCBs there’s not a lot of space in the case to work with.

This actually seems like a near perfect solution but it’s $20 :stuck_out_tongue:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/productDetail.do?oid=215699

In any event my initial thought would work though, right?

Genius:amazed:

FYI, I just tried hooking up UPCB and the Madcatz PCB to a hub. The 360 refuses to be recognized when I plug it in through the hub, in both the PC AND the 360.

Weird. I know CodyK tested it with a VSHG pcb and a CG madcatz pad, both unhacked, connected to 360 or PS3 and each matching controller worked. IIRC there was a message about an unrecognized device on the 360, but the madcatz pad still worked.