ok i see where the blue wire runs… so wat i need to do is solder the red wire on the p360 to that place that i traced to… i dont get the part wif the ground line…
also im not sure which wires go where on the p360… the parts that say up down left right… i dont know which wires to solder there… and when im takin out the comp to i need a desoldering iron to take off the wires or could i just use a knife or something???
hmmm i think i might of just figured this shit out… ok so let me get this straight… where ever that blue line is on the pcb, solder the red cord(5v) from the p360 at the same spot??? and about this black cord(ground cord)… I noticed in my mas there is a white and black cord thats soldered to everything in side… thats the ground cord for the comp right?? so to get the 360 on wat i would have to do is desolder the white and black cord, and solder the black cord from the p360 on all the buttons?
Well I wouldn’t remove the ground line completely, cuz you still need to ground everything else… but… you’ll want to connect your ground cord (black?) from the 360 to any point where the ground wire connects.
The other parts of the joystick, just connect up/down/left/right to the same spots where up/down/left/right are on the MAS PCB right now. You’ll either need some new wire to do that OR you can clip the wires that are currently connected to your joystick, strip the wire end points, then solder those on to your P360. That way you don’t have to mess with the MAS PCB. You’ll then need to attach the groundwire to all 4 appropriate spots on the 360 joystick. BASICALLY: Make the new P360 wires look exactly like they do as the current joystick in there right now.
If it’s not easy to desolder or just solder where there is exposed wire or a metal contact point, you may just want to bite the bullet and buy a Mad Catz Dreampad to start over. It’ll make things look cleaner and it’ll be easier to manage later if you end up needing to switch out buttons or cherry switches, etc.
Good luck! Sounds like you’re slowly learning how to put that thing together… I’m gonna have the same task in a few days, but to a much older MAS stick (it has a large green PCB, but I’m just gonna use a Madcatz pad). I just did all of the research beforehand, so I’m giving you advice even though I never did it before myself haha (but I’m sure it’s right… anyone else can confirm).
can anyone just do it for me? smh lol anyone in broooklyn or ny that can hook up my p360 to my mas??
What if one half shows more resistance?
Possible, but pretty rare. What are the readings, and what are they from?
so what do i do wif the black and whit cord? do i solder it to the p360 when i put it in or do i replace it wif the black cord that came on the p360
I am about to start wireing my first stick and I have quite a few pads to chose from. If I have no prior knowledge about anything like this which would be a better idea. The solderless A series or a H series? I have soldered before, so the H series one shouldn’t be bad, but I don’t know a thing about wireing. Which one do you all consider easier?
I just have 2 more questions i need answered and i should be good… that black and white wire thats in the pic i showed… once i take out the comp stick wat do i do wif that black n white wire in relation to the p360??? do i need to solder it to the p360 or just leave it alone… and the black wire that on the p360… Do i need to solder it the same way as the black and wire is soldered? or do i just need to run it to the same end point as the black and white wire?? basically do i need that black and white wire in the stick when i put the p360 in?? if i can get this answered i should be good to go
I just looked through the thread, and either missed a link that pertains to this, but I am a tad thrown off…
I got another PSOne Series A yesterday, brought it home and opened it up…and this is what is inside. All of my other series A have not looked like this. Is it still Spiffyshoes hackable? The soldered wire has thrown me for a loop.
Not sure what the wires are for but it’s got 16-pins, so it looks similar.
One thing your could do is plug it in and touch a wire to the ground pin and one of the action buttons and see how it responds. Try that with each of the button/d-pad pins and make sure they all work okay. Try that with and without the ribbon in.
If it works, wire it up!
Instead of swapping the pcb on a mas with the agetec I have decided to just mod the agetec.
I have a question though before I order stuff.
I see that the Seimitsu LS-32-01 has a 5 pin connector… is this the same connector that is used in the agetec? It doesn’t really matter because I like soldering… but it would make life a bit easier.
thanks again,
adam
Those wires look like jumpers for the ground of the pcb.
I wouldn’t even worry about em myself.
Now that I think about it, all the other A’s I have hacked, have had the ribbon cable on the right side top, when looking at it such as the pic above…This one however, is on the left.
I just find the disparities rather odd haha.
Ok… I have a problem with my modded DC stick which has a PS1 PCB thingie.
When I switch on my PS2 and Loads up the game, the stick will always be holding on UP+BACK until I take it out and put it back in but I have 15th anniversary collection PAL ( But this Anniversary does not hold 3S in it, For reason I do not know of) and It always holds B+UP no matter what I do, I also did not solder this thing myself, My brother in law did.
Can anyone help me here?
Dc Stick - Type A controller - PAL PS2 and PAL HYPER STREET FIGHTER II THE ANNIVERSARY EDITION-
well a lil update… i was able to desolder the wires off of the comp and take it out… lol it was mad easy… now im bolting down the p360 in the mas… the only thing i have left to do is solder the black ground cable to the same place the black and white wire is soldered to and solder the 5v line… i hope that 5v line is the right spot smh
EDIT: Ok i got the p360 in and bolted… yooo that 360 moves around niceeeeeeeeeeeeee!! lol i dont get all those complaints about it being stiff… well all i need to do now is solder everything and im good to go!
Well I put my radio shack multiplier on the upside down shoe horse and set it to beep. well I did just what you said and for one button I’m getting a reading of like 3 0r 4 and its beeping really loud and for the second reading on the other side I’m getting like 5 or more and its beeping is low
well i soldered everything where i needed to… i soldered the black cord to the same spot the black and white cord was soldered to… I soldered the 9v cord to the spot where i thought the power was comin from… i also soldered the up down left and right to the proper spots… only problem is im not getting a response from the stick when i plugged it to the dc… is it definatly the 5v cord that wasnt put in the right place? and if so could i just plug a 9v plug to the converter and plug it into the wall?
EDIT: when i let the mvc2 run on the dc the character i had kept jumping and i couldnt move… wat does that mean? does that mean i soldered the 9v properly and didnt solder the directions properly?
Does anyone know if a pcb can cause an input lag? Not the usual lag as in with high def tv but something like when I try to do a combo like Ken’s mp-hp (in 3s), it doesn’t combine.
Here;s some specs:
-pcb is a PS1 DS H-series
-the joystick is a Competition
-every buttons and directions works fine individually, only when pressed “together” that there’s a problem
Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
wherever the blue line is from where the dreamcast plug joins the MAS PCB, that’s where you want to attach your 5v line (or any point along the 5v line).