You might be right, though I think it is a popular problem. PS1/PSX controllers are becoming more difficult to find and I know a lot of people (like me) have PS2 controllers lying around, so if Toodles can help us figure them out, we’ll have a pad we can use that’s very common.
If everyone would rather not see the work, I can see if Toodles would rather just take it offline. I’m kind of a noob here and I don’t want to threadcrap.
That’s cool Dev. I just wasn’t understanding the details. Maybe it’s good to have summaries of what comes out of it. We can see what everyone else thinks.
I also think of Toodles created a webpage with his knowledge, he could bring in quite a bit of money from affiliate/ads plus people wouldn’t ask the same questions over and over, but that’s just me.
If we remove the ribbon cable, we have to solder, at minimum, one resistor, 5k ohms, between the PCB and the common wire going to all microswitches. If you’re still up for trying, solder a small wire to some VCC point (either pins 10 or 12 on the ribbon cable connector, or on the VCC spot on VR1), and solder a suitable 5-ish kohm resistor to the wire. Remove the ribbon cable, go into training mode with input display on, and play a bit. Let me know if it acts flaky or solid, and dont be afraid to take you’re time.
ok how do i put the joystick itself together? of course it comes in pieces and i dont know how to put it together… :karate:
link doesnt work
I’m up for it. I’ll need to swing by Radio Shack to pickup a 5k ohm resistor but I’m willing to give it a try.
One question. There’s already a wire (with what appears to be a resistor) coming off the common (pin 11) that you can probably see in the pics I posted. I can just solder from the VCC to that wire, right? (before the resistor of course).
… ignore … deleted post
Toodles, you’re a genius! Just got back from Radio Shack with my 4.7k ohm resistor and tested it out. It works.
I haven’t actually soldered anything yet – just rigged it so that the proper connections were made – but the d-pad and action buttons are all working properly and consistently.
I have no idea WHY it works =), but it does. So I guess we can start replacing all of these “it’s hard” answers with either:
Thanks for spending an entire afternoon helping me and the rest of the community out. Your generousity will not be forgotten.
Anything else you’d like me to test with all these wires, multimeters, and resistors lying around? =)
Just play around with the input display on in training mode and the ribbon cable OUT. Just make sure it stays rock solid the whole time, even with multiple buttons ‘pressed’. Slight possibility that the buttons could act flaky, and better to catch that now. If its rock solid with nothing pressed and the ribbon out, and its also rock solid with the ribbon cable out and you pressing individual buttons and multiple buttons with the resistor, then thats it. When hacking the pad, either leave the ribbon cable in and make your common line going to all of the buttons ribbon pin #11, or take the ribbon cable out, solder a 5k-ish ohm resistor to VCC somewhere, and connect your common line to the other end of that resistor.
But, there is still the problem of no p360, sanwa flash, or other common ground nifty things, like dual PCB weilding, if you use the DS2 pad. Caveat emptor.
Toodles,
When I use the Green Goblin’s pcb and put it in the mas… can I just solder the corresponding wires from the mas stick onto the wires coming off the agetec’s quick connectors?
i would be using a competition stick… not a 360.
Thanks,
Adam
Yes, that’s all there is to it. You will probably find it easiest to cut the wires on the Agetec connecting the buttons to the connector piece that plugs into the PCB. Leave lots of room so you can strip a little insulation off of the wire, solder that exposed wire to the MAS wires that are already soldered to the white microswitches. You especially want to reuse the wires connecting the competition stick. There is one wire going to all four switches on the stick, and there’s only one ground wire (the black one in the set of 5 wires connecting the Agetec PCB to its original stick) on the connector for the Agetec stick. With care, you should be able to install it with a minimum of soldering.
Thanks a lot. I figured as much. When I get the stick in I may talk to you a bit more about this. I’m comfortable soldering and stuff… but I like to be sure that I understand and know what I am doing.
also Toodles,
do you know which vga adapter to use with dreamcast?
it doesn’t matter; the VGA guts are inside the DC, so they all work the same.
First pic of inside my mas
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=25kjujt&s=3
second pic inside my mas
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=1052wrk&s=3
P360 I want to assemble and install
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=9zvhid&s=3
A lil guidance would be nice lol 
Does anyone know what direction is represented by the wires coming off the stick in an agetec green goblin?
if not, what is a good way to find out?
Use the link I sent you before to assemble the joystick itself. You need adobe pdf reader if you can’t see that link properly, because it works fine.
You’ll also need to take a pic of the MAS PCB inside the stick, not so much the buttons and joystick in there now. Or maybe somebody here knows where to wire the 5v line on to a MAS PCB.
PCB pic
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2rr4dmo&s=3
PCB pic 2
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2aev052&s=3
are those good enough pics?
damn, is that what MAS reduced their PCB to? I thought that was just a barrier block or something, but now looking at it closely, it looks like there’s other parts sticking out (transistors or resistors).
I’m not sure where the 5v line is, but if maybe you can see, try to see where that blue line in the controller port follows to on the black chip pcb. That’s where you need to connect your 5v line from the 360. Then the ground line on the 360 can just be attached to any ground line point in your mas. The ground line is the line that connects all of your buttons and joystick together. You’ll need to solder these on.
Anybody else know where the 5v line is on a MAS pcb? If nobody knows, just solder to where the blue line connects to your mas pcb, that should work fine.