*The "padhacking" thread*

Thanks, Kaytrim! 10K resistors should be fine, right?

Toodles told me to keep it close to 5k, 10k may be too much. I took some measurements of the pots on the MadCats pad and they came out to be 9.5k. Divide that in half and you have 4.75k. Use one 4.7k resistor from the center point to each outer point on the board. Like I said I’ll post pics tonight.

TTFN
Kaytrim

Ok here are two pics showing the resistors soldered in place of the trigger and thumbstick. I used 4.7k resistors in each spot. I checked the results on my computer and the analogs were all rock solid and perfectly centered. If you went too high or too low on the resistor the analogs may not be centered. Toodles should chime in to verify my statement. It is just an assumption based on what he told me.

Trigger resistors

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/TriggerReplaced.jpg

Thumbstick resistors, two pots. The thumbstick switch is part of the device so you have to desolder that as well to remove everything.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/ThumbstickReplaced.jpg

I’m currently planning the creation of a universal stick using project boxes and DB-25 connectors and all…

Has anyone managed to identify a good PS3 controller to padhack yet? You know, common ground, analog buttons…

If they’re too high or low compared to the other resistor, the analog won’t be centered. If one of those resistors was 4k and the other was 6k, the analog would be at either 40% or 60%, and stay at that point rock solid. (Insert math formula that says it better than I could: analog point = R1/(R1+R2) )

Looks nice; I’m glad to hear it worked out for you. If you’re soldering skills are up to it, you can unscrew that raised d-pad piece, desolder the ribbon cable connecting it to the main PCB, and just solder your five direction wires (ULDR and ground) to the spots the ribbon cable was soldered to to get it even more flat than it already is.

EDIT: Something I realized I should point out from looking at the resistors you used for the triggers: Analog sticks all use the 50% point for neutral, but triggers should be measured! Some are at 50% when at rest, while others are towards one of the ends.

Before you start removing things around the triggers, use your multimeter to measure the resistance from the middle pin of the trigger pot to the two legs (two separate readings) When the trigger is fully released. You want to duplicate those readings with your two resistors. If someone wants, later I’ll type up how to see if you can activate a trigger with a pushbutton, but I’m pretty damn tired at the moment.

The only common ground PS3 PCB that I know of is the Hori Fighting Stick 3. They’re hard to find at GameStops now, but buy.com sells them for a fair price.

Oh, and also the Virtua Stick High Grade, but that’s expensive and has problems with accepting 3 simultaneous button presses.

Technically you could find any generic USB pad and that’d work.

Won’t those lack a Playstation button though? And do all USB pads work with PS1/PS2 games on the PS3 now? They might, I forget.

If you can find one with a 13th button I think it’d function as the home button. I’m pretty sure the PCBs in the HRAP3 and VSHG are generic USB PCBs. As for BC they supposedly work now but I haven’t tried.

http://www.retrousb.com/index.php?productID=129

The pad showed 50% for the triggers when plugged into my computer. Using the standard controller dialog box I could see one thumbstick and 4 additional axises, two for the other thumbstick and one each for the triggers. When you pulled the trigger the axis went to 100%.

This is from memory but I believe it to be correct. When I grounded the middle connection after installing the resistors the triggers registered as buttons 11 and 12. The other buttons also registered as follows. A,B,X,Y were 1-4, Shoulder buttons were 5 & 6, Back & Start were 7 & 8, The thumbstick buttons were 9 & 10 and the triggers were 11 & 12. I am not quite sure what the exact relations were but the groupings listed are correct.

Nope.

Nope.

Please, either research or test these ideas before spreading them.
Yes, the SIXAXIS’s basic protocol is HID USB, but there are changes they’ve made regarding when the HID descriptor is sent that causes custom drivers to be needed for PC use (or kernel patches for Linux). Even with all of that, the SIXAXIS reports on data on something like 26 different analog axises; remember, the buttons are analog, plus there’s the accelerometer, analog sticks, blah blah. You arent gonna find a USB device that reports all of that that wasn’t made specifically to emulate a SIXAXIS.

Now, a few firmware revisions ago, Sony decided to allow some PSX->USB adapters to work. Most of the PSX->USB adapters worked the same way and reported the same axis’s in the HID descriptor, so this wasn’t to much of a stretch to include almost all of them. However, they didn’t make it so lenient that just ANY USB HID controller would, otherwise people would be playing on any damn USB stick they wanted, and that goes against the idea of Sony Making Money ā„¢.

Well we’re not intending to emulate every function of a sixaxis. That’d be stupid. All we need is dpad + face buttons + l1/r1.

Perhaps I’ve not tried enough USB controllers but so far everything I’ve tried has worked out fine.

Would you be so kind as to actually list the things you have tried that has worked that is not:

  1. Specifically made for the PS3 (a la VSHG, HFS3, HRAP3, etc.)
  2. A PSX->USB converter
  3. Custom hardware requiring the game specifically to support it (a la Logitech racing wheels)
    Any items that are not one of those three groups, and I’ll happily shut up and announce myself wrong. Do you have any mass produced USB pads or controllers or sticks, preferably made before the PS3’s release, that do not fall into one of those three categories, that works on the PS3?

I’m totally open to the idea of me being wrong and you being right; actually it would make my day to find a super simple HID descriptor the PS3 will play nice with. But really, from my work with it, I’d really want to see an example first.

I couldn’t give you names since most of the stuff I’ve tried is of the cheap no-brand variety (mostly dual shock clones). But generally anything that doesn’t need a driver seems to work. If you’d like a specific well-known pad, I’ve heard of Logitech Rumblepads working. And then there’s this where I first heard of the capability.

.

for the psx pcb u can continue to daisy chain the ground to R1 and R2 in case you want 8 buttons right? or am i wrong?

Yessir. I’d recommend using R1 R2 for a 6 button setup since most converters usually use those 2 shoulder buttons.

I followed the instruction in this image:

http://arkadesticks.com/hackedpads/w...and3.3volt.jpg

But there’s a problem: buttons and joysticks work, but the system can’t recognize the simultaneous pression of two or more buttons, what can it be?

The link you posted seems to be dead. Keep getting a 404.