That is the GameStop microcon for the XBox 360. I just went to their site and it is no longer listed. It is made by MadCatz so I am going to guess that their controller is single ground too. However the left and right analog triggers don’t seem to work quite right in this setup.
edit… From the looks of things the NFL teams controllers are the same as the microcon. Only the guide button is in a different location. They may have had to pull the microcon so they could build enough of the NFL pads.
Has anybody hacked/used a Logitech wireless pad for the regular xbox? I have a couple of worn out Logitechs I want to use to make wireless custom joysticks. If the info on converters is right I could use it on any system…wirelessly w/the right converter.
Thoughts/advice???
Spiffyshoe’s Solderless A-series hack. Does the console of the controller matter? PS2 or PS1 controller Dual Shock A-Series? I just opened a A-series a controller but it has a different type of ribbon terminal with the ends of the ribbon terminal alternating lengths. Anyone else seen this before? I’m afraid to crack anymore controller open. :crybaby:
The hack is for PS1 Dual Shock A series controllers
This might be a really stupid question but, how can you tell the difference between the ps2 dualshock and ps1 dualshock? I have ps2 dualshocks and on the top they say Dualshock 2. And another dualshock with nothing on it on the top and on the back it says Made in Korea with a A on top of that SCPH-1200. Is this the solderless one ?
Dualshock 2’s are PS2, DS1’s will just say Dualshock on them. If it says A on the back, you should have a solderless one with few exceptions. Good luck but I really recommend learning to solder if you’re gonna mess with stick stuff, even a dumbass such as myself can do it. :tup:
It doesnt say Dualshock on the top. Its kinda blank. But it says Made in Korea and A. I already know how to solder from soldering electrical stuff in my car (steeerreeoo) so its not a problem. Just wanted to know what kind of controller i had
So I got one of those MadCats Microcon (Gamestop) 360 controllers, but I can’t seem to figure out how to get the pcb all the way out. The control sticks are too small too fit through the holes in the casing; how did you guys get them out of there??
the analog nubs are glued on, and damn strong. Pull enough, and eventually parts of the nub break off; the part thats glued to the metal stud of the analog thingy will NOT come off, but the mushroom cap part of the plastic will. Its a bitch.
In case anyone wants a really cheap common ground 360 PCB to use, try finding one of those crappy Mad Catz arcade sticks that comes with Frogger, Time Pilot and Astropop. You can sometimes find them at Best Buy for $10 or maybe less and it’s a nice, square PCB that’s easy as hell to tear apart as well as solder wires to. I’m working on mine so far and it’s been nothing but easy (and I’m fairly new at this kind of hacking).
I’ll post some pics of the board if anyone wants them.
[quote=“hikarutilmitt, post:670, topic:16708”]
You’re telling me that ALL of the buttons and dpad had a pad that is shows no resistance with the metal USB shield at the end of the cable?!?
So far as I can tell, that seems to be the case. To the point where I put a wire on each line and a single ground, plugged the controller in bare (as in not soldered to any actual buttons, just to the traces) and tested each button and direction with the single ground and it hit perfectly. I had previously wired one of the lines (the guide button , actually) to one of the buttons on my T5 stick and it worked like a charm.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/hikarutilmitt/top_pcb.jpg
I’ll post more later, and I’ve since taken the guide button itself off and taken that ugly analog stick up to the left. I’ve had very little trouble making this work.
that sure as hell does look common ground to me. Damn, I remember Target had them on clearance not long ago. Id better go check it out.
Clearanced at Best Buy: http://www.xbox360fanboy.com/2007/11/10/mad-catz-joystick-clearance-priced-at-best-buy/
I’d read this: http://www.feirtech.com/default.aspx?ticle=Xdotnet360
and assumed he used the optoisolators just like how I use the analog switch ICs. But, looking at the picture, is the same PCB as the one you showed. Damn, Im a moron for not spotting that.
So, the moral is: Mad Catz is nicer for hackers.
I made 4 other pics if you want to see them, though they’re mainly just closeups on the buttons, d-pad and undersides.
You can imagine my surprise at EVERYTHING being a common ground, but when I saw people had been using mad catz pads for this already on the Xbox and this thing was on clearance at BB for $10, I nabbed one for the hope it gave me. Now all I need to do is order my Sanwa buttons and JLF and do the main mod and I’ll have a Sanwa stick for both PS2 AND 360 without much trouble at all.
Come to think of it, isn’t the JLF dead easy to put into a Tekken 5 stick? I know about clipping the tabs on the button holes and such for the buttons, but the stick was almost 1:1 with the screw holes, wasn’t it?
UPDATE: I finally got around to testing this whole theory and soldered the PCB onto the Tekken 5 PCB, thus enabling me to have a PS2 and 360 stick in one. All of the buttons I soldered in, which was all but the various analog parts, work fine. Now to figure out who to get the Sanwa parts from…
Damn it … the closest best buy is like some 600 Km +/- D:
I hit up the closest Target and they didnt have any in. They DID have Beatmania with controller on clearance for $20, so it wasnt a total loss. My Best Buy didnt have any of the Mad Catz in stock, and since its clearanced, they most likely never will.
Ebay does have them for like $20-$30, less if you dont mind it being used and without the three gamecards.
Please post 'em up if you would. It looks like the RB and LB buttons are digital; how are the trigger-ish buttons? Are they digital, too? Is it difficult to remove and/or work around the large stick and spinner thingy?
$20 ???
Damn it … :wasted:
I’ll post them up when I get back from work tonight.
the RB/LB buttons are digital and the triggers are still analog, but they’re relatively low profile so just leaving the triggers there is fine. The right analog stick was cake to remove, the spinner just pulls off (it’s small, anyway) and the left analog i had to get a firm grip on with some pliers and rotate until i broke the glue holding it down. The analog nubs left aren’t too terribly huge so I didn’t have to clip them yet. We’ll see what space issues I might have in my Tekken 5 case later.
Circuit City also has them reduced to $20; this many people dropping prices, it’s probably discontinued.
I also saw one by itself and the Astro pop card go for $3 with $8 shipping on ebay last night. Kicking myself for not grabbing it.
When I can, I’ll put together some pic’s and hopefully an instructable for using it piggybacked to the UPCB. It’ll be a bit though; I got a lot of CS homework to catch up on.
Here we go, the rest of the pics I had taken.
One thing that was interesting is that there are two places for each of the LB/RB buttons that you can solder the main wire to, but you only need to use one since each live is traced to the other and then down to the main part of the PCB. It’ll be kind of ugly of a soldering job compared ot how some here have done their sticks, but I’d be more than willing to take some pics of the wiring job I did to piggyback it with the PS2 PCB that’s already in the stick before/during my Sanwa modding (hopefully it’ll be this week).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/hikarutilmitt/underneath.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/hikarutilmitt/dpad.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/hikarutilmitt/buttons.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/hikarutilmitt/under_dpad.jpg