A while ago i build an arcade stick for an original Xbox (yes, the huge black one) but i hacked some cheap 3rd party controls and it kinda works, in some games i.e HSF2 it work pretty well, but in SF3rd it give some wrong commands, like if you pressed other button than the one you actually pressed or even like if you’ve pressed start/pause and also in some emulators it resets the console to the dashboard. I’ve done other sticks for other consoles (since the SNES, PSX, DC) and never happened this, what you think? Are the chep ass controllers or the way i hacked/wired the controls?
Can anyone post up pictures of the MadCatz MicroCon 360 controller’s insides? I’d like to see that pcb.
Edit: and is that a better option than the Joytech pad someone else mentioned earlier in the thread?
Edit again: I read here that people have had problems with the MadCatz pad, but I’m not sure if that’s the stick/buttons part or the actual pcb dying. Anyone know?
Here are pics with where I think the solder points are. If someone could confirm it would be greatly appreciated. I had to rip off the thumb sticks because they are glued onto the shafts.
So the best way would be to hotglue the trigger pots in the spot they are at when the trigger is at rest, leave the pots on and remove the rest of the trigger assembly, then solder a line to the middle pin of each pot. Wire those lines to buttons just like you normally would, with the ground on the other pin of the button.
Buttons are spot on for sure. I’d have to use a multimeter to confirm the RB, LB, and D-pad ones thou, so I cant confirm those. Im in the middle of moving, so if someone else could confirm, itd be appreciated.
the upper pad on the right direction is soldering point on all of the microcons i’ve hacked. dunno if it is different for yours since you have it marked as the lower one.
The solder points that I marked are just educated guesses at this point. I’ll take a closer look at that one tonight and make a correction if needed. Thanks for pointing that out. Which leg on the trigger pots is the one you connect to, the center one?
Ok I checked my solder points and akuma001 was right. Below is an updated pic. I have two questions I installed the XBCD drivers and plugged the pad into my computer. I had soldered a wire to the ground point I have marked and touched each of the button points. They all worked as marked except the home/guide button. It didn’t matter which side of the pad I touched it didn’t register in Windows. However the spot I have marked as Button 9 registered. Where do I solder for the home/guide button?
The other issue I have is the trigger buttons. I read and reread Toodles post and I can’t get the trigger buttons to register properly. I touch the middle post with my ground wire and both button 11 & 12 register and the X & Y axises move. I haven’t taken off the triggers nor done anything else. This is not a big deal as I don’t need them for this job. However I may need them on a future job. Do I have to add the resistor as Toodles says?
Trigger behavior sounds somewhat similar to what I was seeing; even with resistors, the axis still moved (although in discrete steps). I personally didn’t bother to use them.
Well, looks like my assumption about leaving the trigger pots on was incorrect. Sorry about that. If you have a chance, please check to see if it still acts squirrelly with a small resistor (size doesn’t matter, >2 Ohm and < 1K Ohm) between the ‘ground line’ you’re using for your testing, and the middle pin of the pot. Otherwise, I think the pull up resistor is the way to go. I’ll post up pics when I locate my PCB.
Sorry TMO, didn’t happen. All the other buttons are working fine under Windows except for the guide and trigger buttons. The only way that I have found to bring up the XBCD panel is to select properties of the pad or in the programs menu.
