*The "padhacking" thread*

Tech Talk
601

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/9083/dsc02845jpgwebak8.th.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/4899/dsc02844jpgwebbw8.th.jpg

Yup, that’s it. I figured I should go find out for myself. This is the Gamestop rebranded MadCatz Microcon for Xbox360. D-pad, main 4 play buttons, guide button, start, back, and bumper buttons all use a common ground (the common line is the true electrical ground. I checked each point to make sure it was connected to the USB shield on the end.). Link to the product on the website is the same one I gave in the post above (the product ID# on the UPC sticker matches the product ID used on the website) but the price is $30, not $20.

The triggers both use electrical ground as one of the legs of the trigger potentiometers; we should be able to use a resistor or two and use just like a digital button.

This is very good news. That means that dual pcb support and piggybacking with a UPCB is child play. (well, its as difficult as it always was with any PCB, but since we dont have to deal with the matrix setup, its a shit ton easier than it was a little bit ago.)

The PCB has a ‘Rev. B’ on the silkscreen, so there is the possibility of an earlier revision that didn’t use common ground. So dont be pissed at me if you get one that is different. All I can say with certainty is the one I got uses common grounds.

Update: Well, the assembly and soldering on the pad looks a bit shoddy, but this thing is perfect for hacking. The triggers are active low, so even they can be used with a common ground setup. You have to be carefull desoldering the potentiometers the triggers; I ripped a pad off, and of course it was the important middle pad. I found a test point on the other side connected to it, but still it would have been nicer to have the pad where it was. You can leave the pot’s right where they are, and just connect the middle pin to your button. Or if you’re hardcore, you can remove the pot, and connect the high voltage leg of the pot to the middle pin with a 4.7k resistor. Connect the middle line to your button, and you’re golden.

The voltage going to the pot is like 3.8ish volts connected to my PC. I still need to test if everything works ok with 5v logic so it will piggyback a UPCB easy, but it should.

602

they say $29.99, but when you take it to the register, they say its only $19.99 and it was tagged wrong.

I didn’t need to put any resistors on it… I just desoldered off the pot and soldered a button directly do the pins the pot was originaly on (I cant remember which pin it was, but I remember there being 3 pins for the pot). It goes active perfectly fine on a button press and causes no issues otherwise.

603

I think you got lucky or someone made a mistake. Check your receipt.

I tried that as well, and the triggers would flutter off and on for a few seconds after it was released; check on the computer in the joystick control panel outlet for best results. If you leave the pots on, then yeah, you dont need anything else but those two wires. Come to think of it, the triggers were being reported as digital buttons, and not analogs. I’ll have to see if the XBCD drivers can be set to show me the analog reading.

604

wowow. common ground. awesome news. might have to do a little searching this weekend. lemme know how your piggybacking schem works with this toodles. if it works well, im definitely buying a upcb from you very soon heh

605

potentialy very dumb question

has anyone found a way to hack ps2 pads for making sticks yet?

606

Okay… before I really got into it, I took apart a Playstation Dual Shock pad (Series M?) and put it in a stick… However, since I really didnt know what I was doing, I removed the analog portion from the circuit. I figured since I wasn’t using it, I wasn’t going to need it in the stick…

Unfortunately, because I did this, the controller is stuck at a slight north-west angle on the analog stick. I’ve since lost the analog circuit, othewise I would have reconnected it… Is there anything I can do to fix this latent analog problem? I figure Toodles would know, and it would have something to do with solderng a 4.7k resistor from one lead to another… Which pins would I solder to? Below is the image of the pad, the red box is where the analog ribbon cable used to be…

607

This guide has actually been up for quite some time.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jdpyle1/controls_playstation.htm

The problem is that it’s really more effort than it is worth. The soldering points are tiny. You’re better off just using a PS1 dual shock.

608

Just got one of those gamestop pads - havent cracked it open yet, but it looks like it has a “turbo” button. Any advice on permanently disabling it?

609

Just make sure nothing connects them. It appears to default to turbo off.

610

I have seen that site before, but the thing about it is that all it does is wire up the buttons as though they were digital buttons, which is why they ended up with problems with the p360.

611

Guess I’m just a little paranoid . . . did a stick mod one time using a redoctane ddr pcb & it would randomly start up with turbo on until you plugged and unplugged it a couple of times.

612

Any help?

613

Anyone have some info on the Wii Classic Controller pad?

Like the pcb button layout or pinouts.

614

PS3 Pad hack

I’ve looked around here and even done a search but came up bupkiss. Has anyone successfully hacked a PS3 controller. If so what type, Sony or MadCats. Please include pics. There are a lot of peps looking for the wireless version so there is that involved as well.

TTFN
Kaytrim

615

http://wiire.org/Wii/classic
This site has the picture you are looking for. It even tells you what pad goes to what button on the PCB itself.

616

I modded the Xbox one, it was very easy, the solder points are fucking HUGE, but I could never get the B button to be recognized in Xbox mame for some reason…

617

just wanted to also confirm that the gamestop 360 mini controller has common ground. i was able to hook up a stick with the common ground setup with only one ground coming from the 360 pcb and daisy chained through all the switches. i couldn’t get the triggers to work normally though. they kept registering as hp and hk and kept doing taunts in 3s like the turbo function was on. i guess you will need a resistor for those but it doesn’t matter if you just have a 6 button setup with the bumpers.

thanks again jaxel and toodles for the heads up on that though. :tup:

time to make a dual 360/psx stick.

618

Either leave the trigger pots on, or you have to tie it down with a resistor. If you just leave it floating (which is causing the rapid pressed you described) it’ll be acting up in any game that won’t let you unmap the triggers, like the dashboard.

The ‘high’ lines are the ones in closest to the center of the pad, next to the VR1 and VR2 screenprint writing. If you removed the pots, you want to connect the middle pad to this high, inner pad. If you’re not planning on having any buttons on the triggers at all, then the resistor value doesn’t matter; any resistor, or even no resistor, should. Just bridge the center pad to the innermost pad on both triggers with a little solder and that fluttering should stop.

Thanks for the confirmation, can’t wait to the see the dual stick.

619

weird. i found this knockoff xbox pad for $8 and it has 4.7k resistors between button ground and the ground lines for everything else, but i didn’t need to use resistors. i actually tried using resistors first, and the buttons didn’t work at all. i removed them and it worked perfectly.

620

hey quick question

you can wire a p360 to a solderless pcb hack right?

if yes where might that wire go?

i’ll search for it and edit this post if i find it