*The "padhacking" thread*

Well, i found some here http://cgi.ebay.com/XBOX-360-CONTROLLER-JOYTECH-NEO-SE_W0QQitemZ230159787038QQihZ013QQcategoryZ41017QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I just hope that they got a lot of them :wgrin:

On a second thought… is not as cheap since the shiping outside the U.S. is 15 USD …

I personally only use the official overpriced 360 controller, let me know how this one works out for you.

  1. Correct
  2. Correct
  3. Correct
  4. If it sticks with just the little bit already on the pretinned wire, awesome. Use more if it doesn’t stick. You should be able to give a bit of a tug on the wire and have it not come off. Just make sure both the wire and the pad are well heated by the iron; soldering is technically a form of welding, and everything will stick together better if it gets hot.

If the solder sticks to the black stuff onver the buttons, great. It never does for me, so I expose the copper and solder it to the metal.

yeah i got a joytech that im gonna attempt to hack for xb360, for a friend. problem im facing at the moment is i dont have my multimeter on me. =(

if anyone gets any info on this pcb, lemme know, if not, ill just do a little trial and error

Hate to repost… anyone?

Check out the ‘Essentials’ sticky

Do any of the 3rd party xbox 360 wired controllers work for hacking? and how hard is it to hack a standard x360 controller?

The xbox 360 is not very hard to hack at all. If you can hack one gamepad you can pretty much hack em all. (all that are hackable, anyway)

The trick with the xbox360 is that each button or switch has its own ground. There is no common ground so it just takes more work and more wire. 2 individual wires for each button or switch.

The madcatz wired xbox360 controller is $10 cheaper than the official one and it is actually better/easier for hacking. Especially on the D-pad.

Its easier to remove the big triggers and they are easier to solder to. The D-pad is MUCH easier to work with also.

You can get used xbox360 controllers now at some EB Games and GameCrazy’s. They give people cash for them so people are starting to turn them in when they want a burger or whatever.

Their loss is your gain. The thing about used controllers is that they can sometimes be gross, smell like feet, etc. But you dont use any of the smelly parts anyways so who cares. The PCB should be untouched.

Thanks for the info!

i have a psx dual shock pad, i believe its and OLD A-Series pad (has the ugly square d.gray controller plug), it has the port for doing the solderless hack on it but its not located on top, rather its located right above the left analog stick, and in between that are two brown wires bridged across, the backside looks like this

aside from wondering what the layout was, does anyone know where the 3.3+V on it is? or is it ALWAYS that red wire?

also if i try to do a dual system stick am i gonna have problems wiring the p360 to the psx’s 3.3+V and the dc’s 5+V?

Have somebody hacked a wavebird:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Nintendo-Gamecube-Official-Wireless-Wavebird-Controller_W0QQitemZ330155205971QQihZ014QQcategoryZ3580QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
and does anybody know the size off it (length, width and depth incl battery)?

Question, and I hope it hasn’t been answered because I looked through this thread pretty well beforehand.

I have a stick using a PS1 H-series PCB. Some of the buttons started giving me trouble (it’s been working fine for about a year) so I opened it up. I tried resoldering the buttons that were giving me problems, but it’s a mess. The way I have it now, is that both the PCBs from the pad are in there, still connected. The one, smaller, PCB (where the cable comes out that you plug into the console) is there with no modifications, and is attached to the bigger PCB (where the controller’s buttons would normally make contact), which is where I soldered my wires.

Now, the two PCBs are connected by a thin ribbon cable. I just spent 30 minutes studying how the wires in that ribbon cable are mapped onto the bigger PCB, where I have all my wires soldered. Would it be possible to just cut this ribbon, and then splice apart the wires, and connect them to my own wires, which would then go to my buttons?

Everything seems to match up fine, the only thing that makes me unsure about trying this is that it looks like there is only one ground (the last, 16th wire) for the entire controller. I was under the impression that there were two grounds, one for the d-pad, and then one for the buttons (which is how I wired my stick). Would I be able to run a common ground to EVERYTHING on my stick, buttons and directionals?

Anything else that would make this not work? It would really make things cleaner inside my stick, because there’s very little room in my box to begin with.

Thanks.

successfully wired up the cheap joytech brand xb360 pad and it was a breeze. right now its my fav 360 pad to hack. pretty good contacts and it cost 20 bucks vs 30-50 for the other brands. plus winxp recognized it without fail!!!

sorry for double post. but whats a good way to remove the analog nubs? i cant seem to just pull em off this joytech 360 controller. im afraid if i leave em on, the analogs might not stay centered and start screwing with my controls. i try pulling em with a decent ammount of force but it i am afraid ill break the shit and make the pad worthless.

any ideas?

Ok I’ve been sitting on this for a while but I’ll be damned if anyone has ever ordered a Gamecube/wii format joystick from me.

http://www.ppl-pilot.com/index.htm

There are wireless reciever that run from classic nes/snes controllers to the gamecube port. You dont need to wire it to the PCB since it can go strait to the microswitches of our controller. Enjoy your wireless wii sticks!!

I bought a HFS for PS3, just wondering how I would go about making it work on ps2. Just tell me what I need to do

Replace the PCB with a PS1 Dual Shock PCB.

Can I use a ps2 PCB?

Is it possible to use a Saturn controller with the 360 without padhacking?

No*

*for all intents and purposes. If you tried, youd claw your eyes out and eventually give up the desctroyed PCB to spend the $5 a PSX controller would cost.

Nope.