are you using it on a PS1/2 or are you using it with an adapter also is this a new problem or have you always had these issues since being hacked
Good question, because just before coming back, I checked using a different converter and it worked fine. So I dun buggered up with compatibility. Thanks for helping, and at least now I know how to hack a pad. Can you recommend something to work with the iNPiN, and Xtokki converters?
Where can I buy these for 30 bucks??
Also have you tried making the hack yourself? Is it common ground?
Thanks
Are Tomee SNES USB controllers common ground?
This is my first time building a stick so I decided to use the hori fighting commander 3 pro for the pcb. I want to know where do I need to solder for the button inputs because the shape is different from the start, home, select, and directional inputs.
The buttons are always active without pressing a button after I solder onto them. How do I turned it off?
if the buttons are always active, you need to ground them. a picture of your wiring would help.
Gummo, PM.
Whatās a cheap common ground USB pad I can buy off Amazon? Does anybody know? I was looking at the āPC Joypadā at groovygamegear, but Iām not sure about the store.
sorry, iām not familiar with that pcb. from what i can see in the pic, your solder bridged the ground and input areas, but that would mean that the buttons would be off at all times. you should message gummowned, heās a wizard with that board.
iām not sure how cheap is cheap for you, but you can pick up a wwe brawl pad or a sfxt pad for ~$20 new. for used ones, try a local game store (gamestop) and ask if they have a used one. if you just want the pcb, it should be fine. i canāt vouch for the 3rd party pads.
Hey guys, Iām dual modding a PS3 TE using a SFxT pad and everything works great, except for the down direction is shorting somewhere and I canāt figure out where. Whatās happening is whenever I hit any button or other direction, the down becomes activated and stays on. When I disconnect the down input on either the pad or te end everything else works great. Iāve resoldered both ends several times and always end up with the same result. Could there be an issue in another part of the mod that causes this? This has never happened in other sticks iāve modded and Iām perplexed. Thanks in advance.
Edit: A little more info on the problem. The PS3 side of the mod works just fine, but on the 360 side, the down input is still shorting. Could it be a faulty pad? I knew I shouldāve tested the pad before I took it apart, but it was new and I figured I didnāt need toā¦ Or could it possibly be an issue with the imp? Is there a way to test these things? Thanks.
New Update: So Iāve finally pinpointed the problem. When the stick is set to PS3 mode, everything works great. However, when the stick is set to 360 mode, http://i.imgur.com/Yw3CqGI.jpg, this Down input on the TE either becomes grounded, or turns into a ground. I have no idea why or how to remedy it. Please help if you can, thanks!
Anyone familiar with the Wildfire Revolution PCB? Iām having a weird problem. Iām pad hacking it and everytime I activate the UP postion it activates both UP and DOWN. Itās not a solid bridge though, because the DOWN will flash in and out. When activating DOWN, UP never activates. While doing a continuity test I noticed that not all the grounds are connected to each other. Iām not quite sure what the problem is or how to reliably fix this. Any and all help is appreciated.
UPDATE: Ok so I wired up my second board to my Korean stick. UP and DOWN are registering separately. So it has to do something with the PCB on Sanwa sticks. Still not sure the exact cause but at least we have an idea on what the problem could be.
RE-UPDATE: Ok so I donāt think I would recommend the Joytron Wildfire Revolution for a pad hack, especially if youāre a beginner. I bought two pads they are both not common ground and I am still having problems these pads. Mostly its with concerning three ground contacts (UP, DOWN, and R1) They all share the same ground and for some reason there is some type of loop between them where one will activate the other and Iām not to sure how to bypass or correct the issue.
The triggers also have to be hacked and one of the two pads I bought you will have to invert them. So itās completely random if you need to invert them or not. Besides that the shipping on this product is ridiculous from exportprive.com Try and purchase them from a different source if youāre buying more than one.
OT, I found a thread elsewhere with very detailed PCB layouts for PS3 DualShock 3 (DS3) controllers. You can find similar information on slagcoin, yet http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=648322, is more accurate regarding multiple DS3 pin outs revisions. I wasnāt able to find similar information here. If it exists Iāll gladly point to it.
Leaving this information in thread for someone to find via search.
Ok, I got a Madcatz fightpad for the 360, I want to run it by some people more qualified then me to go through my steps before I do them. If anyone wants to say if im on the right track it would be greatly appreciated.
I tried to make a schematic of it.
http://i.imgur.com/v9VEaPQ.jpg
Do I need to wire a ground wire to the base one right to the USB wires? Or can I go and select any random ground point and itll work just as well? (the connections at the usb end are rather small and iād have to be really precise). But I will daisy chain all my buttons through to one ground point. Also, in order to get the 5V power for any LEDās, do I need to hook a wire up to the red USB wire? (it is also small, but to the side so I can do it more easily).
So is this the right way to go? A answer would be greatly appreciated.
Hey guys first post here! I have a street fighter x tekken fight pad and was wondering if I could use this in order to make my own arcade stick? Would it be the same process as if it was a wired 360 controller. The only thing that concerns me is the turbo buttons and how that might change the whole process? One more thing how much am I looking to spend if all i need to is buy the buttons/joystick? Thanks guys!
Do you have a case for said buttons? You can ignore the turbo settings if you want a true arcade control or hook up an extra button for that setting as well but getting a display to know if tis off is harder so its better to ignore it.
The most expensive thing is the stick but buttons arent too expensive.
Forgive me if this has already been answered, I could not find it.
Original PCB in a 360 TE gone bad, going to replace it with a fightpad and all the PCB diagrams Iāve seen such as
they do not label up the player LEDs which I want to wire up to the Turbo Panel. From what Iāve read, D3 and R27 are for Player 1, D4 and R28 for Player 2 and so on. However Iām not 100% sure which points to solder to
Can someone please tell me which points I should solder to on the fightpad PCB for the player LEDs to work on a TE?
So is there any good way to make sure when you buy a ps2 pad youāre getting the correct series A controller? Iām going to need a pair of them for an HSS 0130 im getting, and i want to make sure i get the ones that will work best. Iād kinda hate to order 2 from somewhere and end up with bad versions.
I would hope that any official ones that are unopened i would order would be the proper versions, but iād like get any extra info i can before i order anything.
Iām thinking of adding a PS1 PCB into my HRAP3, and Iām wondering if Iāll need some diodes to connect the VCC wires between the two pcbs. Do I need to?
So Iām about to try and connect a Madcatz 6 Button controller to an MC Cthulhu.
http://devcast.dcemulation.org/mods/madnes/nes2.php
Itās this guy here.
Iām doing this so I can keep VMUs in my arcade stick casing, I know the board supports DC directly now.
My big question though is how do I route power from the Dreamcast board to the VCC of the Cthulhu? No padhack for this pad seems to use it, but I canāt imagine itās not necessary since the Cthulhu needs power to operate.
Iām imagining that one of the cables that connects directly to the Dreamcast data line is a power one, as it would be in a USB, but Iām not sure whichā¦