I agree that the original pad used as a pad can be not sensitive enough. but after the hack into a stick there should be no issues with sensitivity. if you mean lag say lag. don’t say “its not sensitive” if you really mean “its laggy”. the problem is with your choice of words, not mine.
No, I’m not talking about lag. Some PCBs do better with very quick button presses. Even if the button is activated for a very small fraction of time, the Toodles PCB will pick it up whereas the Sidewinder PCB will not. Some PCBs will also do better with how much time separates button activation. That’s not lag, and I can’t think of a better word than sensitivity to button activation.
Thanks for both your comments, so likely just the sidewinder pcb is crappy and not something inherently wrong with third party pcbs as far as reaction time or signal output.
I definately want to be playing Virtua Fighter and Akira has this one move where you need to hold both guard and kick for one grame and then ater a singel frame letting go of the kick button while still holding guard. You’d need the most precise control for that. So I’ll go with the el cheapo controllers for now, test it out and if there is something wrong I got a hold of the cables for a MC Chtuhlu.
PS3 doesn’t support wired microphones, does it? Thought they were wireless only, so no problems with a MC Cthulhu.
ok this makes much more sense now. you are actually right that there is a problem. the proper term is called debounce. the debounce filters out quick 1 frame button tapping since it thinks it is actually a mistake. so yeah you could say it is not sensitive to quick tapping but you could also say that the debouncing is really too much for your requirements. there are two types of debounce, hardware and software. sometimes both are used together. look at the noise from a typical button when examined on a scope.
^Ah OK. Cool, learn something new every day. =]
Right, if you’re going to padhack, make damn sure you have a good pcb, because it sucks to do a bunch of soldering only to end up with a shitty stick when solderless high quality PCBs are so readily available and affordable.
you can setup a test circuit with a 555 timer and a frequency counter. my multimeter was only $40 but it does have a frequency counter built in. the 555 timer is like $0.10. all you would need to do is generate a pulse waveform with %50 duty cycle @ 30Hz to test if a 1 frame input is filtered. you could use an NPN transistor collector and emitter in place of the button with the base wired to your 555. 2 frame on / 1 frame off test can be done at 20hz with a %66.6 duty cycle. you can set the duty cycle by adjusting the pot while checking your AC volts against your DC supply. use the formula to convert your desired duty cycle to the expected RMS voltage given your known supply voltage. you could also test with a microcontroller instead of a 555. whatever is easier. it would be interesting to know the data on each PCB.
debouncing is not always bad if it is done on fractions of a frame. in fact, debouncing can be very desirable when overcoming the inadequacies of a noisy switch. Ultimate arcade has debouncing built in to the U-hid and mini-PAC and I have not heard any complaints as far as debouncing is concerned.
Haha I don’t know electronics like that man. I trashed the Sidewinder pad anyways, although I still have the Logitech as a backup.
I just busted mine open right now great post and they are selling them rather cheap now at gamestop ($15). I haven’t pad hacked them myself yet but I am going to soon. Have you encountered any difficulties along the way?
So I’m thinking about doing a 360 padhack using a Brawlpad. I can use an extension cable with a drilled hole to make a headset jack and keep that functionality, but what about the LS/DP/RS switch? Ideally, I’d say it doesn’t matter. Does anyone know of any games that have a problem with it being set permanently to the left stick or the d-pad? I suppose the only relevant games would be fighters and scrolling shooters.
IMO do not worry about the switches. Just keep it ‘DP’ as standard.
Guys,
Are the new sf x tekken 360 Madcatz fight pad just as usable for dual mods as the SF 4 versions?
Yes.
Ok, I got a hold of a specialized 360 controller for fps games with longer thumb pads on the analogie sticks. But they don’t revert normally to neutral, so the entire time both of em send the signal for down. So the controller is totally useless except perhaps if I use the pcb for an arcade stick.
Can I just remove all the parts of both analogie sticks and then it won’t send a signal, or do I need to get some resistors to block any signals"
Always need Resistors to replace removed Potentiometers.
here is a good picture to illistrate the mod. on the left is the potentometer. on the right is the voltage divider with 2 resistors (R1 and R2).
Ok, thanks guys :).
Somehow I doubt it, but is it possible to switch out the microswitches in a PDP Versus pad for ones that are reliable/durable? I’ve heard they die quickly.
Never heard of anybody trying that, but it might be possible to do so but ur gonna have to track down some microswitches that will fit the PDP pad and also work just like the original ones.
Would these work? They were originally suggested for another project, which is going slow/stalled right now.